oldpacrats

personelly i have nothing against the hot rodders, but if you start with a piece of junk-do what ever you want with it. its really upsetting that among that crowd they wnat the best possible car to tear apart. i'm really a packard guy but i do have other brands too. i recently was the second high bidder on a 31 chevy 3 window coupe with 49k, original paint,original intieror, 3rd owner, and the car was sitting in a chevy dealer show room half its life. the last second high bidder was a street rodder. i wrote him to express that theres lots of solid cars around for hot rods, but this car should be preserved as is- he never wrote back. i also wrote the seller in hopes that there would be a problem in the sale, but never heard back. the things we look for in a low milage car, such as suspension components that arent wore out, doors that the hinges and latches arent wore out, a rear end thats not noisy or wore out, useable intierior, these are things they take off so why pay more for them?

hi, update on the dilema-work schedual has kept me from finishing untill today, in the mean time, the valve timing marks on the flywheel never would come out right. tdc mark is right so flywheel is on correct. with cam and crank marks on, the intake close is near the mark, but intake open is about 5dgs after tdc instead of 10 or so before as it shows on the flywheel. i've consulted every motorhead i know on this,and most said an advanced cam is better than a retarded cam, and to bump it ahead one tooth. one friend thats a retiered cat deisel guy said they taught at cat school that if you are rebuilding, set cam on the marks, but if you are just overhauling a wore out motor, set cam one tooth ahead. sounds good for a gear drivin deisel with fine teeth, but one tooth on a packard gear is 17 or so degs and thats too much to play with. i ran it with one tooth retarded, on the marks, and one advanced. also, with one t advanced, you get intake close, but now ex close is before tdc,not 10 after as it should be. one more point, there are no specks in the shop manuel. 35 on book says about 30 dgs before and after for valve timing, but i have not found specs other than the flywheel for this motor.so,...to make a long story longer...i have now replaced a chain that after i took out the pin to lay it out, had almost 3" of slop in it, and i've replaced all the rocker arms that had egg shaped all the bushings( all 16 were very bad), so regardless of what the flywheel marks say, i had to have done something to improve its health. fineally drove it today, and i think the manifold seems cooler, like cam timing is better, but still a little slugish and still cannot get a smooth idle. also, it was a cool day, and i didnt have time to do more than about 10 miles, so i really dont know if i fixed the fuel problem that started the whole thing. to make the long story even longer, when i bout this car someone had taken a 70's chrysler distributor and machined it to fit the n/e mount.not a bad idea when you look at north east prices, but dwell was all over the place because the mopar dist had only about a half inch bushing at the very top, and that leaves the shaft flopping all the way down to the oil pump. plus they didnt really do a nice fit on the mount, so i got another mopar and machined it to a nice snug fit in the n/e mount, and then pressed in a 3" bushing so its all tight. only thing i did not do is check it on a distributer machine to see that the advance curve is atleast close. that should be checked, but i'm now wondering...in my model a fords, and old motorcycles,you retard only for starting, and then advance after its running. packard sayes to only retard on hills or for pinging.perhaps i should set timeing so it needs to pull the dash retard out to start, then push in. i time by "ear", but thats at idle, and i would then be retarded at highway speeds. need to have the dist checked next i think. duel point n/e have a longer dwell that i'm not going to get with my mopar? any thoughts?

hi, i need all the wizards here,my 626 that suffered from a bad restoration some time ago, by the former owner,has started to have fuel problems, and the following steps have been gone thru, and a bit of history first. when i first got it, i saw that the generator was out to the very end of the adj. for the cam chain, and all the local pac wizards said they have never seen such a thing. the motor never seemed right,although i put about 3k on the car,i allways thought that it was laboring a bit, bad fuel milage, and allways a miss at ilde that would not go away-but it went down the road like a packard should. this spring it started to boil gas in the vacume tank,and its not even hot out yet!manifold seemed hot, so i assumed streched chain and late valve timing, and a fire going on in the manifold thats only 1 1/2" away from the fuel pump. time for a chain. i put a new chain on,gears are good, and checked the valve timing marks on the flywheel, and nothing matched the marks.off by 30-40 degrees.so- then tried 1 tooth advanced-worce,1 retarded,worce, finally put a degree wheel on, and then noticed that every time around i get a different reading. valve train!, so then took off the front section of rollers, and sure nuff they were all wore out at the piviot point, rollers still round. i have a 30 std motor being rebuilt at this time and have converted that to the later fordged rockers, so i came up with a set of useable rockers, put er back together, checked valve timing on the flywheel, and the ex closed right on the mark! we won! no the intake still opens about 30 degress late, actually after tdc, instded of btdc, so, i'm sure the car will be happy that i did some thing, but whats next? camm wore out? also, i have no correct specs for that engine other than the flywheel marks. 30 shop manuel says to check valve timming on chain jobs, but they dont give a spec. later motors, like 35 witch are still the two piece block have specs in the book, but must be different. any body been there-done that? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

hi, nice to hear that someone is still building an open car,as most of them were done years ago. what do you have? yes, i want to sell my 31 posts, but i will probably have to make{since i can't find one) a drivers side piece, and thats the side where the vacume line for wipers goes thru, and i'd like to have one here to look at while i'm building it. are you in a hurry? or project a long ordeal? these posts i have are very nice, good enough to put on an original, or driver,and complete. lets stay in contact, clayton. clayt3@hotmail.com

thanks, i have one of those cups with the car. thats the only original piece there and the rest is hardware store knobs and i'm sure i can do better than that with an original to look at thanks again,clayton

you have a list of packards in the movies?

wanted for 29 std 8, the screw on knobs for the inside door latch. even a bad one for a patern so i could make em on the lathe

got my 626 sedan in the shop for some winter tinkering and noticed theres a casting date on the bottem of the aluminum toe board that says 6-20-29, and the delivery date on the firewall plate says 6-27-29! casting must have still been warm when they put it in the car!

thanks for the reply. i allready had my eye on that boss on the side pump, and as for the other hose it would be nice to go out of the head just to get closer to the fire wall for a little cleaner look. a T at the radiator would be easy. with the vacume tank and throttle linkage all in that corner this will be a tricky fit, but I do drive at night and late into the fall when heat would be a good thing. thanks!

still looking for drivers side windshield post for roadster or phaeton. 30's are shorter, and i have a very nice pair of 31 taller ones to be available when i'm set up.thanks

i'd like to put a water heater in my 29 std 8. they show one in the acc catalog, but there is no pipe plugs, raised bosses, or other obvious places to start drilling. any ideas? any one have one on they're car? thanks

i can hardly believe all this hype because some idiot ran a stop sign. pretty black and white issue, be it ford pinto or duesenburg, seat belts or not, one guy ran a stop sign. period

hello, the rear hubs on my 733 are smaller than the front, so the wire wheel dust caps don't fit. some one thought maybe 31,or32 rear end, ring gear is 2-30. whats up? 7 lug wheels on 32's too? wrong drums? thanks

fold down windshield stuff is on my list, horn button and other top of steering wheel stuff, bumper bow ties, back seat springs or patern. any comments welcome

can any one help me out with 733 phaeton parts? any one have a car currently in the works that would like to compare notes and info?thanks