gossp
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Posts posted by gossp
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You only need a sticker on the tow vehicle.
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It’s a busy week at work for me and my dad is on a car tour so we are gonna bring whatever we find to toss in the truck/trailer the day before we leave! Likely some Maxwell odds and ends, perhaps some early Dodge Brothers pieces, mostly sample woodgrain dashes.
I will be shopping for a few 15 dodge pieces and pretty much any 5x5 or 30 horse Maxwell stuff I see. I really want a pair of bail handled Maxwell script sidelights.
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On 9/19/2022 at 7:30 PM, Matt Harwood said:
We should make a club.
Frank Abramson already did.
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Hank and Dale, we are neighbors…. Well, across the isle and ten spaces down. I always describe my location to old timers as: “the poor side of Rolls Royce row!” Not nearly as many Rolls guys there these days, but people that have been coming a long time know exactly where I am talking about.
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A note on the reproduction service manuals. The small blue paper versions available everywhere has the same information as the larger format plasticized page manual sold by the dodge brothers club. The images are much more clear in the version the club sells and when using it in the shop you can wipe grease off the pages…. Twice the cost but in my opinion worth it.
Welcome to the world of Dodge Brothers. You will be very pleased with the quality of the car and the club support available.
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Ed is correct that driving in in the evening is about always possible but this can be gate dependent. I went on a grocery run a few years ago in a brass era car that came in on a trailer and forgot to put a sticker on the car, couldn’t get in at the gate I drive out but had nothing but a smile and wave at another.
Very often the guy you are picking up from will have only used one entry sticker and has many spaces… depends how well you know the guy if he will come off a sticker with his name on it (literally).
The whole area is and should be a no drive zone through the vending day… there will always be exceptions, but most of us do a horrible job of looking out for cars while trying to walk, talk, and scan both sides of the isle.
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On the early cars (when there was only one body style) the body numbers are in the ballpark of the car number but not matching. Both were just a count that theoretically started at 0 with no effort to keep them aligned. Similar to the engine numbers being in the neighborhood of 50,000 higher than the car number. Did dodge 1 get body 1 and engine 50,001? I have no idea. Car number on the frame rail is how to date them…. But if I had a 16 with a body number less than 45000 and wanted to go on hcca tours… I would be ignoring the number on the frame rail.
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My 16 was very difficult to turn over when I pulled it out of its 30 years of poor storage.
Valves popped up relatively easily but still couldn’t spin it. Drained oil and filled with atf, no change after a week.
I finally noticed the twisting of the water pump shaft while trying to turn it. Cut the shaft between the gear and the pump and had an engine that spun easily.
that of course started the saga of replacing a water pump on one of the early dodges with the pump mounted to the oil pan. It is a much easier replacement on a 24.
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Great build, all it needs is some baseball cards in the spokes!
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That looks like a lot of fun, but I am curious what speeds they will run to make it in time for dinner on day two without the interstates. Early cars get really slow in PA hills.
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On 8/23/2022 at 8:30 AM, Minibago said:
As I understand it 1919 Dodge Brothers cars were originally fitted with 24 inch diameter wheels which had 33 x 4 tyres fitted.
25 inch wheels as fitted to earlier cars were fitted with 34 inch tyres.
The hubs while not quite identical in appearance are interchangeable so you can fit either the 25 inch or 24 inch.
As I understand it the spokes were painted originally.
Most cars have had modifications over the years.
I have had both my cars wheel spokes replaced one set 25’s (1917) and one set 24’s (1919) I like the wood to show so I used six coats of marine varnish.
They look pretty good.
🤫
For the record, 33x4 is a 25” wheel size. As is: 34x4.5, 35x5, and 32x3.5.
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34x4.5 will fit the same 25” wheel as a 33x4 that would, I believe, be correct for a 1919 (that is what is on my ‘15 and ‘16), so don’t write off your wheels as incorrect yet. Take a pic of one and post it, the guys here will be able to tell you in a heartbeat. A close up of one of the lugs holding the rim to the wheel will help as well.
33x4 is available through all of the vintage tire suppliers. As of a few months ago none of them had brass stemmed tubes so you will be stuck with rubber stemmed. You want brass stemmed.
34x4.5 won’t hurt anything if the condition of the tires is good enough to roll on and they don’t rub anywhere, it will just put a little more rubber on the road.
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That looks like a fun car!
I believe the fuel tank plug is pipe thread, but as you get working on the dodge you will be amazed how many fine thread bolts are used. All of my recent experience is with Dodge Brothers 9 or 10 years older than yours so things could have changed.
If fuel, even old and turned dark, was flowing I would be tempted to just keep trying to remove the plug in the car and drain the tank for a couple quick flushes. Pulling it and cleaning it is always a good idea… but with only a couple months of driving season left… I wouldn’t take it apart!
Myers Early Dodge and Romar dodge parts will be your friends.
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In my younger years I did several parades in my fathers 1920 Dodge Brothers(4th of July parade in the late 90’s pictured). Although a well sorted great running car, the dodge would get hot on a long parade in the July heat. I don’t think I ever failed to finish but the car was certainly ready for a nice easy low speed five or ten mile cool-off run immediately after. One Christmas parade found me right behind the Shriners go-karts and they spent much of the time doing laps around me.
By far the most fun car I ever took to a parade was a 1907 Cartercar… it had friction drive so you could set the “gear ratio” very slow with the hand throttle high enough to keep it running and get out of the car while it crawled along at a walking pace! I did my own laps around that car!
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48 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
I love the price on that one, must belong to a Jenny.-
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30 plus years ago and for at least two seasons of car shows there was a cycle fendered hup 7 passenger sedan that showed up in several car corrals in the Indiana area. It was as big and impressive as anything of the classic era, enough so that it left an impression on me all these years later, and I have never seen another. I recall the price was high enough to put you in Super 8 packard money with a condition that now might get left alone and called a survivor but then was a car that needed a full restoration. My dad made more than one attempt to bring it home but could never get the price down or his desire to pay worked up. It sure was an impressive car though.
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With the deadline practically upon us, I am now getting nervous that the check I mailed with my registration a month ago has not been deposited yet. Looks like a call to the AACA will happen Monday.
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One important thing to note: there are better products than jb weld for the same uses. Belzona 1111 seems to be a popular, although expensive and hard to find option, that I have not yet tried but have a project for it in the wings.
jb weld is very good though. It does degrade over time, but is highly cost effective. We used it on a cracked water jacket of a model A ford block and it lasted ten years, so we took a grinder to it and put new jb weld back in… lasted several years until the car was sold. With the repair cost being half a day and $10.00, I consider that a huge success story over an engine pulling correct repair.
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1 hour ago, Brass is Best said:
I would be happy if someone gave me a 1912 Packard Model 30 Touring. I mean everybody who had one new is dead, so nobody should want one of those.
While we are dreaming of the market collapse, I want a slightly older Pierce.
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My fathers 14 T went out for a pre tour shakedown this evening: aka, I road in the back seat with mom and let my dad buy my daughter ice cream. Everything model T performed beautifully and kept up with in town traffic just fine… the aftermarket turn signals that mount with a big magnet that looked better under the fender than on top of it…. Not so much!
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A’s and T’s are still desired and all of them eventually find a buyer. Country roads or city side streets work just fine. The vast majority of my old car rides are taking kids to get ice cream and there isn’t a speed limit over 25 along the route.
I think a bit of a price adjustment may be needed to bring in new blood. There are a lot of boomers that had/have a lot of wealth and very long retirements to find and enjoy hobbies. A guy that got a first old car for a few hundred bucks then developed a six figure or more collection over a twenty or fifty year span. The price to start playing has gone up, so the supply of new blood cannot support the prices of the last few decades. That said, they all eventually get bought.
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3 hours ago, ErinSt said:
If you can, please share with us a picture of this now without the snow, I think it would look awesomeJust now.
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On 6/25/2022 at 8:23 AM, Steve Moskowitz said:
We do not have the printed materials yet to send out. The goal is this coming week. You should have the info soon but remember to send it in immediately!
Will car show and flea market registration arrive separately? I received one but not both.
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1 hour ago, TexRiv_63 said:
I hit Google and see now how it was used on the wooden wheel. Was the axle retained in the square hole? Was this type of hub only used on the rear wheels? would a time period of use be about 1914-18?
14-18 seems about right. At some point the rear hub changed and the cap on the rear became the same as the front, the cap you have is rear and early only.
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For Sale: Chevy Buick - $2,500 (Saint Petersburg, FL) have to laugh
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
I once had a car with a swinging six, but then I replaced the broken motor mount.