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1938McLaughlin

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Everything posted by 1938McLaughlin

  1. I have the following items for sale. Items removed from a 1966 Riviera. Radiator POSI diff. with 3:07 ring and pinion 1" intake risers - new axle shafts center console tilt steering column front hubs headlight assemblies Grill turn signal assemblies Dash cluster iwth electro cruise Heater and A/C assembly Alt. Rear brake drums Remote trunk release - including switch Contact Ed 519-648-3915 edz240@yahoo.ca
  2. I have the following items for sale. Items removed from a 1938 McLauglin BUICK Fuel Tank Radiator Ring and Pinion 4.44 ratio L & R axle shafts Steering column with Steering wheel ( not banjo type) Dash center trim piece - chrome Ash trays- pair Headlight switch Fog light switch Arm rests - front door Front brake drums ribbed - 6 bolt Mclaughlin Rear Brake drums ribbed - 6 bolt Mclaughlin Brake baking plates with hardware - front and rear - shoes are virtually new. accessory Grill guard interior door handles (2) - stainless repro. Pair 6V horns Hand brake lever assembly clutch and brake pedal arms Complete set of window glass Grill emblem Door window regulators - all - 4 door rims - four 16" 6bolt - Mclaughlin New pedal rubbers - brake/clutch -brown, gas -black Dynaflash decal for engine Rear seat bottom spring coils Please Contact Ed 519-648-3915 edz240@yahoo.ca
  3. Any chance you have the Stainless Running board trim? Also door sill trim. thanks Ed
  4. That makes sense to me. Explains why the middle bolt holes are closer together on the side angle support pieces. And more importantly I just could not see getting a single piece large enough to cover the hole area, to go it at once. Excellent description Jeff. thanks Edward
  5. wanted. - Front bumper for a 1938 Buick Special - good condition (no damage) - Interior rear view mirror. thanks Edward
  6. I have a 1938 Special 4dr trunkback. Unfortunately the car was incomplete when I got it, everything in the trunk was missing. I need to come up with a pattern/ picture/ detailed description of the raised portion of the floor that sits above the spare tire. What type of material was it made of? thickness? Is it a single piece? ...if not, were does it join? How far to each side of the support does it go? Any and all help appreciated. thanks Edward
  7. The pair of "SPECIAL" emblems I have are Stainless steel wrapped around a steel backing plate. Background color is painted the same light silver gray as the painted portion of the side vents. Ed
  8. The Horn ring and center are for a '38, personally I would hang onto them until I had may hands on a better one. Sometimes you're lucky if you find just the steering wheel. "strange thin chrome 3/4 circle rings. not sure what theyre for." Not sure what diameter of circle they make. But I would guess they may be for the side covers for sidemounts.
  9. I question whether your overheating problem is truly cooling system related. Could be, but I going to pick at some other possibilities. You mentioned some squealing from either the water pump or generator. This could simply be a loose or aged belt. A belt if it gets really hot from slipping will glaze up get very smooth, further reducing its ability to grip/ spin the pulleys it is driving. There is a drain cock for coolant on the engine, located on the right side of cylinder water jacket at the rear. If coolant drains readily from here, and has no crud in it. I'd say your system is fine, and requires no further flushing. The fact you have no brown water, suggests to me that your system is quite clean. Spark Plugs rich lean: This one is very straight forward. CARBURETOR. The carb has 2 barrels, one feeds cyl 1,2,7,8 and the other 3,4,5,6. One side of the carb is flooding out. I know from experience that the car will run surprisingly well, even with a river of fuel in the intake manifold. Your carb needs some attention. Just don't become too narrow focused on your running hot, being the cooling system. (it may be) But stay open minded, and look for all other possible causes.
  10. Just a couple ideas. First one I would be inclined to attempt, is running the exhaust from the drivers side along the original path, but instead of joined the right side continue it all the way back and have it exit on the passenger side. Then run the exhuast from the passenger side back and cross it over to the drivers side at the rear. That way the two pipes would end up being similar in length. Just don't make the diameter to big, you want to keep the velocity up The other option is to have a nicely made single system of adequite size made up (mandrel bent). Much of the stuff muffler shops put on, the bends are all crimped up, and the flow is restricted.
  11. Thriller I just got some new replacement engine mounts for my '66 riviera at Napa Part # 602-1026 Transmission mount n/a
  12. I am parting out a '66 Riviera. No engine or trans, I needed them. Black interior, bucket seats, trim panels. Doors, hood, trunk lid, rear bumper, grill headlights, posi rear end. Located near Kitchener, Ont. Canada contact Ed: edz240@rogers.com
  13. If I understand correctly, you've got flex pipe all the way back. Flex pipe has a huge amount of resistance/ restriction . It is not good for flow, a smooth pipe will flow much better. I suspect that all the wrinkles in the pipe change the sound considerably. Skip the cut-out, when you can afford it get a proper exhaust made for it.
  14. I believe you will find the the rocker arm shaft is pressed into the towers that support it. Might not be so simple to dissassemble.
  15. Sorry for scaring you in the previous post. Looked at your first pic again. I've put a green line where the line is to go. And yellow circles where the oil should come out from rocker. Take and remove the extra line from the first T and plug it. Then start the engine and see where the oil is flowing or not. Help diagnose what to do next.
  16. Someone has created a big nightmare for you. That tube does not belong, definately someone created their own system. A close up pic of where the oil line joins at the front from the head to the first rocker shaft support. Unfortunately that does not appear to lubricte the rocker arm shaft. The oil is to flow thru the shaft and into the rocker arms and then out thru the little hole about half way along top edge of rocker. You can cry now if you want, I would. One of two reasons I can see for someone doing this. 1/ the oil passages thru the shaft and rockers was plugged up, they didn't know how to clean them. 2/ a more likely reason the shaft and rockers are worn (one or more of them) and the oil was leaking from between the shaft and rocker excessively, therefor not enough pressure to get it up thru the rocker. If this is the case you are looking at big money to have it rebuilt, or find a good rocker arm assemble and replace it.
  17. Could you post a pic of the oil line, rocker arrangement. I may be misinterpreting what you've decribed, but to me something does seem right. As for the rear axle (sorry I didn't read back thru the entire thread), I recall mention that you had some fluid leakage. You will want to replace the seals, keep the fluid in where it belongs. The hardest part in my mind is removing the brake backing plates etc. in order to remove the axles. It is more time consuming that it is difficult. You could save yourself a fist full of $$$ doing it yourself. You'll also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and knowing better how everything fits together.
  18. If you are going to replace the valve guides, the head will have to be removed. Valve guide replacement is best done by a shop with the right equipment ...press. Valve seals, springs is definately something you could do yourself with the right tool.
  19. Since I don't recognize that bracket, I have to ask, does your car have sidemounts? As for the bolts, they will likely be "carriage bolts" like a bumper bolt. Once loosened about 1/8' the square will lift out of the hole and spin. Need to keep it seated, I know easier said than done. Myself I would have cut or ground the bolts off rather than cut the bracket.
  20. A friend of mine works at a Nissan dealer. Apparently they had to expand and renovate the dealership to match the 'Corporate" design. Cost Big money, and the owner is pinching pennies now to keep things going. Could have been similar situation, so they packed it in instead. just a thought
  21. Body No identifies the factory it was built at. Sorry I don't know reference where they were. Your trim # indicates it was built with Red leather interior.
  22. Is there a source for reproduction body panels to fit '38 buicks? Specificaly the rear valence panel on a trunk back Special. ( the outer section below trunk opening) Trunk floor would be good to.
  23. The tool I got was Napa part # T345 (was about $120 Cdn) Weatherhead I believe is the brand. Pic attached. I'll still blame your tool, but there is a slight possibility that you're trying to tighthen it just a bit too much, which could also lead to the distorted flares. From my experience having the right amount of tubing sticking out of the tool to start is important. Too much tubing - results in flare shifting sideways/offcenter/ being distorted. Too little tubing - results in flare not forming correctly at all. head too small not much of a lip. - typically the base of the flare tool insert is used to gauge amount of tubing to protrude. With a double flare (like used on the brake system) the second step, folding the inner lip, you do NOT want to compress this real hard, just enough to fold it in fully. The hard compression occurs when installed, allows it to form better to the mating fitting ...less likely to leak. Thats my theory.
  24. I agree with the others, no drips or leakage is the way to be. I suspect the difficulty you had in making the flares was more the fault of the tool than you. I recently wore out my first flare tool bought 15+ years ago. Not all of my flares were usable. Forced to buy a new flare tool, I took the advise of my rep at the parts store and bought a better quality tool. What a difference, much more consistent flares. I think now I'm throwing away tubing mostly because I made it the wrong length (too short) or bent the wrong shape. Definately no filing! I know it can be a miserable job, but I think when accomplished you'll be much happier if you do it yourself.
  25. update The pilot bushing was worn, but this is not the source of vibration. Contributing factor likely. After completely removing the clutch and running with the bare flywheel the problem persisted. A measurement of the clutch surface on the flywheel indicated runout as was noted at the beginning. after a bunch of shimming to get it running flat the vibration has decreased greatly. Only a narrow band of rpm that is rougher than the rest. I'm attaching a pic of the rear motor mount. My question is do they normally have bolts running thru holding it all together? Edward
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