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Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. Regarding the exhaust temps, I think you might be worrying needlessly. Every engine feeds cylinders unevenly; dyno tests have shown that there can be a one point difference in air/fuel ratios from one cylinder to the other. Jetting will not change your idle EGTs. You aren't running on the main jets until the car's going at least 40 mph, so you'd have to increase the size of the idle jet, which would really have to be accomplished by pin drills, and then you're in "you had better know what you're doing" territory. Check for vacuum leaks, and set the idle mixture screws based on engine vacuum. There are a few different schools of thought on this, but I've always just tuned for the most vacuum. Some will then turn the screws in a little for "lean best" idle, but at that point you're probably close enough either way. Good luck!
  2. NASCAR has used a throttle body fuel injection system for several years now.
  3. That was an awful wreck. If they continue to race at Daytona and Talladega, this will happen, but they should reconsider their unlimited "green-white-checkered" policy. They just keep wrecking and lining it up to do it all over again. If the race finished under caution like it used to, even to the detriment of the "show," there would probably be a lot fewer wrecked race cars, and in this case, one less injured driver.
  4. This is the other car; this is the one used for close ups with McQueen.
  5. I get it! After buying a '74 Firebird, everybody thought I'd gone mainstream. I try to explain that the '74-'76 models are the stepchildren of Second-Gen Firebirds, but nobody believes me.
  6. My wife and I use our cars for Christmas card pictures; this is one of the finalists for last year's card.
  7. Thanks Rusty...I know it's not my question, but I literally am dealing with this exact same issue on my '65 Dart after I fixed some linkage issues Saturday. I was doing the preliminary picturing parts in my head when I came upon this discussion.
  8. I've been asking the same questions around my favorite pertinent forums: Does anyone have a good recommendation (that they've tried) for roof rail weatherstrip for '65 A-Bodies (mine's a Skylark)? So far, a few guys have said Steele, and I am aware that they exist and I have used them before, but they are pretty pricey... My car is a 40-year-old lacquer paint driver that has a wind whistle in that vicinity, and it looks like it's due for a new piece, so if anyone has used something other than Steele and has been satisfied, please chime in. I'm not really trying to be cheap; I just try to keep things in perspective regarding cost v. condition. Thanks!
  9. It's been a long time since I had mine out, but I think you can wiggle it free from the gauge once you remove the screws...mine's a little different since it's a '53, but I think the idea's the same. I don't remember taking out the whole cluster when I had my temp gauge rebuilt.
  10. Today I was replacing a right rear wheel cylinder in my '65 Skylark, remembering that I did that job when I bought the car in 2003. Time flies! Then, the gas tank vent hose started seeping. I'd NEVER replaced that, and it was ancient. While I was under there, I noticed that the main hose from the sender to the fuel line was spongy. I may have done that a while back, but I replaced it again today. It was an engaging two hours. Times that by 9 (my total number of cars), and I can understand why I feel like I'm always working on a car!
  11. That one is a Swinger 340...anything with a 340 brings a premium.
  12. You may want to head over to this website and post it there as well: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ You may be priced a little high considering the paint, but '67-'69 Dart hardtops are worth more than some people think...you may not be too far off. Good luck!
  13. Yeah, that video made me a little sad. I think a lot of us would love to have that maroon '66 Toronado, and it's just been sitting in the garage since 1971, in addition to a ton of other decent stuff. It's his money and space, and if it makes him happy, great, but there's almost no way I'd be sitting on that many cars I didn't use. If I own it, I'm working toward making it run and drive, or it already runs and drives.
  14. Yeah, I figure it will be a savings of several hundred dollars at least when everything's added up; but perhaps more importantly, I think it will drive a lot nicer with radials. It's the only car I own with bias ply tires, and while I'm certainly used to it and don't mind it, it might be nice if the car didn't have such a mind of its own on grooved highways and over ruts left by Michigan's heavily loaded trucks.
  15. They are bias-ply tires...The car certainly sits a fair share throughout the year, but I drive it enough that the tires don't flat spot. The Coker website recommends the same thing as the other suppliers/manufacturers, to replace tires every 10 years. Just for education's sake, why would a bias ply last longer? Thanks for the link to the trim rings!
  16. My beloved '53 Special (not the one shown below) will probably need new tires next year, as its Coker Classics are 10 years old. I drive the car at least 750 miles a year, so I was thinking of saving the $750 or so and just going with some blackwall radials, and I was thinking about doing something along the lines of a car I saw on v8Buick.com (pictured below). Mine sits at stock height, but I'm considering some dog dish hubcaps with either the "Buick" script or wide spaced block lettering and some trim rings. It looks like CARS, Inc. sells a reproduction set, but they're $400. My car is quite nice, but not 100% perfect, so if anyone has a nice driver quality set they'd be willing to part with, I'm in the market. Thanks for listening!
  17. 1965 Mustang GTs were produced with the dashboard that became standard in '66 on all models.
  18. I'm a high school liberal arts teacher, and you're mostly right, but most schools are pushing STEM degrees (science, technology, engineering, math), at least in Michigan. Unfortunately, few of these students (at my school anyway) are truly interested in anything mechanical. Those who want to be engineers seem to go into it, to some extent, due to the perception of a comfortable lifestyle more than any burning interest in how things work (not that I blame them). The medical field seems really popular right now. Times change... Cars are more reliable, so you don't have to get to know them by working on them on a regular basis. Most schools don't have auto shop (which is partially a chicken and egg deal), so they're not exposed to cars there. I think quite a few kids like the modern stuff, some like older stuff, but it's never going to be like it was when my dad was a kid, or even when I was a kid, when 5.0 Mustangs were really popular. This year's graduating class had a refreshing number of kids going into the trades, like welding and construction. Few mechanics. I'd still say it was under 10 percent. I hope things get better in the future; I try to sell the trades to interested students whenever I can.
  19. I too am using Remflex gaskets on my '53, and Matt is correct in saying that they are a huge improvement over anything else (at least in my experience). I think the main reason they're so good on the straight 8 is that they're thick enough to allow movement but not break the seal. The top layers of my gaskets are a little scrunched up, but they don't leak.
  20. Both of those are super cool! I'm surprised they're still there after six days; both the Courier and the F-250 look solid. I'd dig a Courier or a LUV, but shipping that thing would cost more than it's worth and I've truly got no more room. I'm paying for storage on three as it is.
  21. How is this still here? What a generous gesture and a great car! Someone in the area ought to be driving this around already... My wife just added, "What a great potential Father's Day gift!"
  22. A lot of condensation builds up in a crankcase, especially with a road draft system. If your road draft tube has any rust in it, which it probably does, thanks to the aforementioned condensation, the water that drips from it will look like oil. If you're truly concerned that it could be antifreeze, the first thing I'd do is rent a radiator pressure tester from a parts store, follow the instructions, and see what you come up with. If it's running well and not running hot, then you probably just need to take a longer drive to get the oil really hot. 15 minutes around town won't do it. Regarding engine vacuum: If you connected your gauge to the port for the vacuum advance, there's a good chance it's a timed port, meaning it doesn't see vacuum until the throttle is cracked open.