Aaron65

My Thunderbird promo cars ('63 and '65) both have the writing on them, so I think it could be a Ford exclusive. I like the misspelling of "safety" on the frame. Beautiful promo aside from that!

If you switch to an Edelbrock you'll need to use the Centerville adapter (or something like it) because the new carburetor won't have the correct bracket to operate the Dynaflow switch-pitch rod. This is what I'm talking about: https://www.nailheadbuick.com/product-page/special-dynaflow-pass-gear-linkage-kit-for-aftermarket-carbs-57-63-364-401-425 I'd be checking everything else before I bought a new carb, including cylinder balance. You can short each cylinder with a grounded test light by pulling back the boot on the spark plug wires, and then you can watch a shop tachometer or the tach on a digital timing light if you have one. I'd also check compression with all plugs out to see if I were in the ballpark for what a Nailhead should be. You may also want to substitute another PCV valve (probably a NOS one) if you haven't tried that. Some newer ones will cause a funny idle in my experience. My car idled fine with the AFB; the secondaries were inconsistent and lean under power by a fair bit (mid-to-upper 13s). I might go back and give it another shot eventually, but the Edelbrock runs fine, so it's no hurry. I know you've had idle problems, and I can say that my car idles as smoothly as I expect from an old car, so yours shouldn't be too rough.

The AVS2 on my car is the 1906. I wouldn't change the primary shaft, especially since Centerville sells a really nice, easy to install adapter for $40 for the switch pitch. Anything driveability-related could certainly be ignition, compression, or fuel based. I don't use my wideband to figure out idle mixture; I just use a vacuum gauge because the wideband isn't really that reliable at idle. You've probably already covered this, but did you do a cylinder balance test already to eliminate any weak cylinders?

I'm using a 650 AVS2 on my '63 right now. I bought the Dynaflow "kickdown" adapter from Centerville and wired up the electric choke to a switched fuse. After driving it around with my Innovate wideband (I only install it for carb tuning) I ended up leaning it out one step on cruise and power (using the Edelbrock owners guide) and richening up the idle circuit. Usually, I reduce the size of the top idle bleed on the primary cluster by using a ball bearing to close it up a little and opening it back up to size with a pin drill. It runs pretty well, although I don't know if it's worth the extra money for an AVS2; I've had decent luck with the regular AFB-style Edelbrock in other applications. I typically like running the original Carter (or whatever the car comes with), but I went through the AFB that was on the car about five times, and it was both lean all around and inconsistent in behavior. There are some times when you just have to take advantage of a new part that works reasonably well for what you're doing with the car, and that's when I go with the Edelbrocks. Two of my cars have them and the rest use factory carbs.

Yep, I'd try my best to straighten up that grille and leave it alone. It's perfect.

$9500 seems like a very good deal for a '40 DeLuxe.

Yeah, I wouldn't mind having one of those.

The torque converter should just have two drain plugs 180 degrees apart from each other. My Dynaflow is a '53, but I imagine that a '50 is the same, so you should be able to remove one with a socket wrench. Maybe someone with a '50 can chime in here to verify. Another note, you should consider replacing the thrust mount on your transmission (visible in the last picture near the bottom). That mount actually "drives" the car, since the input loads from the torque tube all end up there. You should be able to get one from Bob's Automobilia or CARS, Inc.

Still waiting in Michigan...

That's a bargain for sure. If this keeps up, I'll probably have to get a '30s or '40s Buick to go with my '50s and '60s Buicks.

I guess I'm not seeing the plainness here. It's a clean turquoise hardtop version of one of the most nicely styled full-size cars of the '60s...I love it!

None for me in Michigan yet...

I've never used them, but there's a place on eBay with good feedback. https://www.ebay.com/str/brakehosesunlimited

I got eight years out of the last Interstate battery in my six-volt '53 Special. I noticed that the ammeter was reading high, so I replaced it, but it was still starting the car just fine. I have a distribution center in town that fills them with solution when you buy them. I've had the car for almost 20 years, and this is only the third battery I've bought...so far so good.

That should be sold in nothing flat.

My local radiator shop recored my original this past spring for $450. So far, so good, and of course, it fit right back in with no problems. EDIT: Oops...read the original post, and it's already been recored. Sorry for starting at the end of the thread!!!

I've driven 6 of my 8 old cars this weekend, so I'm pretty happy. Here's the Riviera at our local state park.

The T-Bird seems to be my color drive car this year.

I'm planning ahead for next year's fleet projects already, and I have some rust to cut and patch on my driver's fender. It's too close to the rocker to do it on the car (although I might be able to pull the lower fender away). Is there a "minimum stuff removed" way to remove the fender so I can do the work and blend in some paint up to the trim? No big hurry, but I like to plan stuff out in my head long before I actually do it. Thanks! Aaron

If you have limited space, there's nothing wrong with ratcheting the rear end backwards. If you've got plenty of space, there are only two bolts (or nuts? I forget.) holding the springs to the axle. Either way will work - your preference. Someday not too long from now (I've been saying for years), I'm going to reseal my Dynaflow, and I'll probably just ratchet the tube back so I don't have a huge torque tube taking up the non-existent space in my garage while I do the work.

My '65 Mustang would DUMP trans fluid in low or reverse after I had a trans guy rebuild the C4 that's in it. It turns out that he used RTV instead of the square cut seal that belongs in the low/reverse servo. Luckily, I was able to install the seal in the car, because at that point, I had had a couple problems with it that told me it was better to just fix them myself. So far, so good, knock on wood.

It's probably just got a switch on the dashboard; there are just two wires going to the microswitch on the carburetor. I actually put an AVS2 on my Riviera this year. I had the AFB apart at least five times, and it just wasn't working consistently (I've worked on a bunch of them, so it's nothing new). It might need rebushed throttle shafts, but the AVS2 went on with an hour or so of adapting and another hour of tuning. If you're not going for 100% original, it's a nice option to have out there.

I didn't get around to finding someone going to Hershey, John. Send me a picture if you are able to, please.