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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. My '53 forced fluid from the center section gasket after I switched to rubber seals.  A local long-time parts guy came up with using a brass fitting with the proper threads in place of an inspection cover bolt to vent the housing.  I ran a hose from the fitting to an open fuel filter and tied it to the frame so no junk gets back into the differential.  

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  2. 8 hours ago, JamesR said:

    The price looks like it's been dropped another thousand bucks to $7000. If it's been in AZ most of it's life and is as good as the ad makes it seem, it would be a very good deal, IMO. Those  early iconic 4-seater T-Birds usually are very good deals, though. Almost makes me feel bad about owning my '65; I have as much money (or more) in mine...and it hasn't been painted yet.

     

    Don't feel bad.  I have more in my '63 as well, and it also has an old paint job and the air doesn't work yet.  This seems like a good deal, but the buyer will end up dumping money into it, just like most of us do.  :)

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  3. 2 hours ago, Pfeil said:

     

    Tell me something?. When the intake charge is drawn into the cylinder- intake valve open, compressed- both valves closed, ignited and driven down- both valves closed, finally exhausted-exhaust valve open. What difference which side of the cylinder does incoming  mixture flow and exhaust stroke flow make? There are plenty of Overhead valve engines that intake and exhaust on the same side.   

     

     

    The answer to my question is There isn't.

    When the exhaust and intake manifolds are on different sides of the head, the heat from the exhaust doesn't affect the carburetor and intake manifold, because it's not right underneath them as it is on most American inline engines.  Modern gas boils and expands at a fairly low temperature, so anything you can do to keep the carburetor cooler will help a car with heat soak issues after a long run on the highway.  This may not have been a problem when these cars were new, but it is now.  I know exactly what he's talking about; I run a return line back to the tank on my straight-8 Buick to bleed fuel pressure after shutdown.  Carbking on this forum turned me on to that idea about 10 years ago.

  4. Hey Phil,

    If your fuel pump is anything like the combination fuel/vacuum pump in my '53 Buick, get used to the oil leak from the pump.  I've discovered that it's dry for about 1000-2000 miles, and then it starts weeping, and eventually it's a full-fledged leak.  It doesn't matter if I rebuild it or buy a rebuilt one; I use some lawn mower foam air filter material and a binder clip as an "oil catcher," and I just replace it or flip it around every once in a while.  Maybe others have been luckier or smarter than I am.  

    Aaron

  5. This car was at a shop in my town a few years ago.  I stopped by and asked about it (I love '54 and '55 Coupe DeVilles), and the shop owner said the then current owner wanted about $15,000 for it.  That was too much for me.  I later saw it on Craigslist for somewhere over $15,000 - I can't remember.  I did see it on its way out of town on a trailer...I guess it ended up in Howard City.  

  6. That DID happen to me once.  I bought my '53 Buick in 2005, when I was 28 years old.  When I was in my early 30s, an older gentleman asked me if I was the original owner.  I very rarely am left without a snappy comeback, but I didn't know what to say.  The only other time I was that flabbergasted by a question or comment in public was when an older lady looked at me on a Sunday morning in a grocery store parking lot and said, "You look like I feel!"  Well OK then.  :)  

    Nothing like keeping a fella down to earth!

  7. Hey all,

    I'd like to have the vacuum motors on my '65 Dart rebuilt; they work, but they no longer hold a vacuum when I use my vacuum pump, so they're likely on their way out.  The heater's important, because the Dart is my cold, dry weather old car, and nobody likes vacuum leaks anyway.  Anyone know of a reliable rebuilder with a reasonably quick turnaround time?  Thanks!

    Aaron

  8. 5 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

    Aaron, the flexible wire used inside the distributor is available. I can't remember where, but have seen it recently.  Perhaps one of the wiring harness companies?

     

     I went to electronic ignition and have not looked back.  The pertronix is a good, inexpensive and reliable system. It CAN be a problem for six volt systems if the voltage is not up to snuff.  As can other things.

     

      Ben

    I've switched to electronic in 5 out of the 7 as well...new points just seemed to be a crap shoot.  The only thing keeping me from making the switch (ha!) on the '53 is the generator; I've read that electronic modules don't like the inconsistent voltage.  I forget...did you convert to 12 V?

  9. EDIT:

     

    First, thanks Robin.  I did a ton of investigation over the last day or two after work, and I may have crossed wires in my head.  Either way, I figured it out.  My newer wire from the points to the coil broke at the connector.  When the vacuum advance moved the points plate, it broke the connection momentarily.

     

    New questions:
    1. Modern wire insulation seems less flexible than the original, and I think that caused the wire to bend at the connection rather than bending the wire.  I made my new wire a little longer to offer more flex.  Is there an alternative with more flexible insulation?  I used 16 gauge wire.

    2. My ground connector question still stands.  I'd like to fix that at some point soon.

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  10. I'm chasing an intermittent cutout problem on my '53 Special.  When I push down on the accelerator for normal acceleration, it will feel like all power is cut, but it only lasts a second.  It pulls fine at full throttle and has plenty of fuel from the accelerator pump.   In case you're curious, here's what I've checked:

     

    1. Fuel pressure at highway speed is 2-4 psi, depending on whether the needle is off the seat or not.  This pressure is after the inline filter.  The gauge is unaffected when the car cuts out.  It pulls fine at full throttle.

    2. I've tried three different condensers and two sets of points.  The nut that holds that strap to the points was slightly loose after I swapped condensers the first time, and the problem got way worse.

    3. I replaced the point wire to the coil (inside and outside the distributor) several years ago.  

    4. Ignition on, engine off, points closed=6.3V at the + side of the coil.  Same at the - side.

    5. 3.9-4.0V at the coil with the engine running.

    6. Fuel runs out the sight plug just a little with the engine running.  

     

    The ground wire from the points plate to the distributor body is original.  It's not great, but it has continuity.  The connector that screws to the distributor body is special so the distributor cap fits on.  Has anyone tried any tricks to make a new wire without this connector?  I can't think of anything...do any of the suppliers sell it?  

    If you can chime in here or have any ideas that I might be missing, feel free to add that too.  :)  

  11. I just looked through my service manual - it looks like an inline filter was all the V8 cars had (at least the four-barrel cars), in case anyone runs into the same question someday and finds this in a search.  I think it might be time to change the inline filter, regardless of how clean it seems.  

  12. I just had the AFB apart on my '65 Skylark.  It hasn't been that long since I've had it apart (maybe 4-5 years), but the bowls were dirtier than I like to see.  I run an inline filter that seems clean, but I long ago removed the filter that's located in the fuel inlet.  Does anyone know what Carter used as a filter in '65?  I seem to remember that mine had a paper filter, but I'm not sure if it was original.  My Corvair uses sintered bronze filters, but that has Rochesters on it.  Thanks for any ideas.  :) 

  13. I drained the converter and cleaned the pan today.  There was many, many years of gross stuff in there.  I'll try to pull some of the old fluid out of the drain pan and put a drop on the manifold, but it might be too mixed in with whatever was in the drain pan by now.  

  14. Excuse me for the hypothetical situation, and I apologize if I've brought it up before (I'm having a deja vu moment), but I'm pondering trans cooler alternatives for my Dynaflow.  

    A little backstory about why: I've been a bit of a bad car parent, but the '53 has been super reliable for years (I've had it for 15 years now).  Before I took a 200 mile drive last week, I checked the transmission fluid for the first time in a while, and it was low (it drips) but it was also very gray and dirty.  So I made a note to change it today.  I've never had the pan off this thing, but I did have the converter apart 13 years ago when the engine was out, so that was the only service I've done to the fluid.  I don't think the pan's been off in 50 years, so you can imagine the sludge in the bottom.  There was also some flakes of bushing material, etc., but no big chunks of anything...probably signs of a very old 121,000 mile transmission.  Anyway, the fluid was so gray that I started to think of the cooler.  I didn't smell any antifreeze in the transmission fluid (at least it still smelled like transmission fluid, even if it didn't look like it), but it's something to think about.  

     

    Anyway, if it ends up that the cooler's swapping fluid (I've also never noticed any evidence of that in the antifreeze), has anyone tried any other options, like a cooler in front of the radiator?  No big hurry here, I'm just thinking out loud, which is why I'm afraid I sound like a weirdo when I post.  :)  

  15. It looks like you have enough taper that a machine shop would probably recommend boring it, but they'll probably go out to .030 over rather than .010, just to make sure it's cleaned up AND because that seems to be the most common replacement piston size.  Most of the manuals I've read have recommended no more than .005" of taper, but I'd guess that was pushing it.  You'd still have to hone it for the rings to seat, and even then those new rings would be getting a workout as they expand and contract to fit the bore taper.  It would be a short term fix for sure, but if you don't put on too many miles, it might get you by for a while.  I've certainly done things the "wrong way" to save a few dollars (temporarily) and just to see if it could be done, but I'm a weird guy.  :)

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