Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65


  1. I was underneath my '53 for several hours yesterday adjusting brakes and flushing the lines, and I noticed that my brake pedal return spring has seen better days.  To save myself some running around needlessly, has anybody used a generic off-the-shelf spring before, or is this a specialty piece?  Thanks!


  2. You might want to try calling RENU to see if they got it.  I sent a 1963 Thunderbird power steering box back to a company in California as a core, and the part dropped off tracking one day.  I called the steering company, and they found it in their warehouse.  It had never been marked as shipped.  


  3. I'll second the chassis ears.  My '53 Buick was making a low, loud noise last year that I thought was a carrier bearing or an axle bearing.  I hooked up the chassis ears to both axle bearings, the center section, and the rear of the transmission where the u-joint is.  No abnormal noises...I swapped tires from left to right and the noise went away.  I also used the chassis ears to diagnose that the electric steering rack on my wife's 2012 Mustang was clunking, an odd problem.  If I were more ambitious, I would use them to track down all the little odd noises my old cars make, but some noises bother me more than others and I can be a bit lazy sometimes.  :)

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  4. The '65 Mercury has one of my favorite dashboards ever, and it's hard to go wrong with a Breezeway window.  I think you did really well here, but as my screen name attests, I think 1965 is the best model year for cars.  If the Mercury were mine, I think I'd repair the rust behind the wheels, try to wheel out the paint to get some gloss back, and spot paint my patches.  Then I'd just clean it up and drive it and repair things as needed. 

     

     

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  5. I'd say those are Special 45R doors, almost certainly for '53 like Dave said...I just went out and measured the length of mine (which is a '53 Special 2 dr. hardtop), and they were just under 45 inches long.  I know that '52s had a similar door and trim piece, but I don't know if it was identical.  


  6. 8 hours ago, Wamps98 said:

    The whole right side which is two bulbs for brake. Swapped the working driver side bulb into the passenger side and no go. Put the non working one in the driver side and it worked so it seems like the wiring running to the passenger side brake lights has an issue. 

     

    It's been a while since I messed with the lighting in the back of mine, but it's been quirky.  Make sure you check the passenger side bulb sockets really well.  They have to really seat in the housing.  If my memory is correct, I've had to replace one or two sockets back there.  


  7. After my grandma passed away about 11 years ago, my dad cleaned out her basement and brought home anything automobile related that he thought I might like.  I just got around to bringing most of that stuff home, which wasn't hard, as my mom and dad live about 6 blocks away from me.  :)  Anyway, in the bag was this old electrical component that I can't identify.  I've attached some pictures, so if anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.  Nothing on the piece pivots or moves, in case you were wondering.  

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  8. Regarding the exhaust temps, I think you might be worrying needlessly.  Every engine feeds cylinders unevenly; dyno tests have shown that there can be a one point difference in air/fuel ratios from one cylinder to the other.  Jetting will not change your idle EGTs.  You aren't running on the main jets until the car's going at least 40 mph, so you'd have to increase the size of the idle jet, which would really have to be accomplished by pin drills, and then you're in "you had better know what you're doing" territory. 

     

    Check for vacuum leaks, and set the idle mixture screws based on engine vacuum.  There are a few different schools of thought on this, but I've always just tuned for the most vacuum.  Some will then turn the screws in a little for "lean best" idle, but at that point you're probably close enough either way.  Good luck!  

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  9. That was an awful wreck.  If they continue to race at Daytona and Talladega, this will happen, but they should reconsider their unlimited "green-white-checkered" policy.  They just keep wrecking and lining it up to do it all over again.  If the race finished under caution like it used to, even to the detriment of the "show," there would probably be a lot fewer wrecked race cars, and in this case, one less injured driver.

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  10. 15 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

    I would probably be the oddball guy.  I usually buy the unusual.  Not necessarily independents but like the Dodge Sportabout.  Hudson Pickup. The local guys were surprised when I ended up with a 40 Ford Coupe.  They figure when I told them I had a new car to show them it would be something unusual.   

     

    I get it!  After buying a '74 Firebird, everybody thought I'd gone mainstream.  I try to explain that the '74-'76 models are the stepchildren of Second-Gen Firebirds, but nobody believes me.  :)


  11. Thanks Rusty...I know it's not my question, but I literally am dealing with this exact same issue on my '65 Dart after I fixed some linkage issues Saturday.  I was doing the preliminary picturing parts in my head when I came upon this discussion.  


  12. I've been asking the same questions around my favorite pertinent forums: Does anyone have a good recommendation (that they've tried) for roof rail weatherstrip for '65 A-Bodies (mine's a Skylark)?  So far, a few guys have said Steele, and I am aware that they exist and I have used them before, but they are pretty pricey... 

     

    My car is a 40-year-old lacquer paint driver that has a wind whistle in that vicinity, and it looks like it's due for a new piece, so if anyone has used something other than Steele and has been satisfied, please chime in.  I'm not really trying to be cheap; I just try to keep things in perspective regarding cost v. condition.  Thanks!