37DodgeSedan

New question - is the cam lube just dielectric grease or do I need to buy SL-2 Lubricam, no one local seems to have it though I can get it on-line. The car is now running. I took hchris advice and went to an old former Carquest car parts store that has been around for years and he actually had the condenser that his parts book called for so I asked for points and got them too - wow. The parts seemed difficult for my big hands to install without dropping/losing a screw so I decided to just pull the distributor out and make sure everything was in and set correctly. Cell phone pictures before pulling it out helped make sure it went back in. Thanks everyone for your help!

My multimeter is digital and shows 1 when separate and 0 when the leads are touched together. I had the ohm setting for 20000k which internet searching yielded comments to choose the highest setting. I thought I could energize the condenser from the multimeter by black lead to condenser body and red lead to the detached power lead from the coil. this should have caused a change in ohms over a 15-20 sec interval and then reverse leads to discharge. However, no change occurred at all. I will try the method stated by Trini tomorrow and provide an update.

My 37 Dodge will not start. I drove to a store and when I came out it would not start. I suspect the condenser since an ohms test shows 1 and does not go toward 0 when connected - are all condensers interchangeable if the wire is the correct length? Does it matter if a condenser is listed for a 12 volt car rather than a 6 volt? I am having trouble locating a condenser that says it fits my 37 Dodge but I think it should be pretty universal. I also check the points gap, ran a wire directly from the battery to the battery side of the coil, and did an ohms test on the non-condenser wire inside the distributor cap. If you have other ideas on why it will not get any spark please feel free to post. Thanks...Kurt

Just came in from the garage. Work was keeping me away from working on the car until late today. With some persuasion it finally popped back and now i can move it thru all the gears. Thanks very much for all the help!

It is actually stuck in 3rd gear not second since the left gearshift rail is forward toward the engine. Should i still try to pry it with a screwdriver?

I removed gear shift rails/forks and there were 3 roller balls place. The clutch gear sleeve still will not slide back from 2nd gear to neutral. If I turn the rear wheels by hand the gears in the tranny do not move but if I turn the universal joint both the wheels and the gears all turn if I have the clutch pushed in. Looking at the transmission diagram in the shop manual I see an additional clutch gear spring and ball. Could that be what popped out when 2nd gear when to far forward? If so, does that mean pulling all the gears out or is there some other method? Does anyone have any other ideas?

I would think if the clutch works I could take any pressure off of the trans and be able to fix the problem without removing it. With the floor board off i have full access from the top of the transmission. I just do not know what to disassemble or or how to put the gears back in neutral.

Help! The transmission on my 37 Dodge will not shift. I had the engine rebuilt and bolted the transmission back to it outside of the car. The gear shift lever, plate, and housing had been taken off for clearance issues. The transmission had been in neutral the whole time until after the engine was back in. I went to put the shifter back in an the left gear shift rail moved toward the engine into 1st gear. I went ahead and finished bolting it down thinking nothing of it. Now it will not shift. The clutch pedal is all hooked up and the fork is still in place. The clutch plate had words that said this side toward engine so i think the clutch is assembled correctly. Does anyone have any ideas?

Anyone have any recommendations on an engine rebuilder in the chicagoland area? Would be nice to find someone that really knows the old L-head sixes. My engine is a true 1937 D5 that matches the car. I have it out of the car and just need to find someone I can trust. I am already asking around at the local WPC club but there are a lot more mopar guys in the Chicago area that do not go to meetings or are not in the club. Please email me at iwinyouwin@hotmail.com

Here is a picture of a 37 Dodge rear end (no mine). Sorry but I have not been active but I know I should be. Thanks to 1936 D2 (Art) he emailed me and got my attention that Claudiu1988 could use some help. I have many other pictures already and I can go out and take some more when I have a chance.

Just thought I would check and see how much the engine would be? Please let me know how to contact you.

I would like to pull the engine out of my 1937 Dodge to rebuild at my leisure. Can I put a 1950 Dodge coronet 230ci flathead straight 6 motor in? I do not want this as a permanent change so what differences will I have to deal with?

I have a 1963 Riviera with a numbers matching engine but I am trying to determine if it is a 401 (Wildcat 445) or a 425 (Wildcat 465). The air cleaner looks original says wildcat 465 so it makes me think it is a 425 but I just want to make sure some previous owner did not just swap the air cleaner with a true 425. The engine id is JT538. Any help would be appreciated.

I have one rim on my car that wobbles and the spare is even worse. Does anyone know where I can find 1 or 2 good rims or a place that can straighten rims?

Have you resolved your brake problem? I have a similar problem except that the first push on the brake goes way down and then the second pump is pretty solid. I have tried normal bleeding, the suction method and even a push (low air pressure) method and the problem continues. I see no signs of any leaking fluid so I am not sure what to try next.

I need a dash pad, back panel behind rear seat and under rear window, and the circular center of an interior light all for a 63 Riviera.

Thanks for all your help. People instructed my wife on how to repaint the etched glass and it turned out very nice. A fellow Dodge enthusiast sent me the headlight part I needed. The temperature gauge I will do when time/money permits. For now I will stay with the after market temperature gauge that came with the car.

Post deleted by 37DodgeSedan

I received my car back and it is stunning. Why pay the high resto shop prices with all of their overhead costs included when there are small shops that give more personalized service at cheaper prices without compromising quality. If you are in the Chicago area contact Chris at Collision Decision. His phone number does not have a Chicago area code but he is in the Chicago area any way. Just tell him you saw my car (1937 Dodge) and want him to give a quote on doing yours. His phone number is 224-305-1699. If you want to ask me more questions about my car I would be happy to answer them.

I do not know if my trunk seal is original but the flat side is tacked to the body and the trunk lid comes down on top of it. Check out the attached picture where the trim is just being held in place. Since you are in the Chicago area you can come over and compare seals and other parts in person if you want too. iwinyouwin@hotmail.com

Ebay had some seat covers to fit a 35 or 36 Dodge Sedan according to the original packaging. Does anyone know if the 1937 seats are the same size?

If anyone is in the Chicago area I found a guy that removes all of the chrome, lights, fat fenders, etc. and strips the car down to bare metal. Welds new metal for rust holes, fixes dents, puts on a primer coat, 2-3 coats of base, and 2 coats of clear coat. He does this all for the same price as a high end Maaco job that does not strip the car and fix the body without paying extra. He has really low over head costs and passes the savings on. He does not advertise and gets new work by word of mouth only. My car is in the finishing stages and looks awesome. If you would like to be introduced to him let me know. If it is in the next two weeks you can see my 1937 Dodge get its finishing touches. After that it goes into storage for the winter and you can see it in the spring at shows and cruises.

Here is an update: I got another spring and put it in. My oil pressure when cold is now just under 60 and still is at 40 when hot. I capped of the line to the oil filter and the oil pressure stayed the same (60/40). The engine know sound is still the same. I expected the hot oil pressure to drop below 40 since the new spring had less tension. Any other ideas?

Here is an update: I got another spring and put it in. My oil pressure when cold is now just under 60 and still is at 40 when hot. I capped of the line to the oil filter and the oil pressure stayed the same (60/40). The engine know sound is still the same. I expected the hot oil pressure to drop below 40 since the new spring had less tension. Any other ideas?

I had another old car buff listen to the knock and he used a metal rod and cupped his hand over the end and put it to his ear. In his opinion it was not coming from head but lower in the engine toward the back. It is more of a hollow sound that will vary in loudness from almost gone to just noticeable. Most people are not even aware of it if I do not point it out.