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Hockeye

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  • Birthday 10/08/1946

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  1. I want to get rid of the 8V battery and switch back to six volt, but until that is done I need to charge the 8V safely. I have been hearing all manner of advice from the guys who spend all day at the feed store, or NAPA, but would rather hear from you guys. I have already found the the cable connections are wrong, made for larger posts and do not tighten very well.
  2. Hope all of you enjoyed the season. I want to start this over. I have this car, which I obtained from a HET Club member some years ago. The car had been modified from six volt to eight volt, certainly for all the bad reasons. 1. How do you recharge a dead 8V battery? I have a fancy Sears charger which has only 6 and 12 V settings, but amps you can select. I also have a mechanic who is stumped by very few problems, but this one has him stumped. Mental block, I think. 2.. Consider me without either brains or experience. What components need to be changed out, other than voltage regulator and, of course, battery? I suppose the answers would apply to all such cases regardless of make/model of car, but then... what do I Know, anyway?
  3. Hi, Guys. Got a big surprise when we pulled the valve covers of my 1923 Buick Model 50 six cyl. The push rods are mostly bent, with one being in fact broken in two. We are very surprised, as the car was running gangbusters until it didn't start to drive to a car show. My mechanic was stymied, so he started taking stuff off to check what was under the valve pushrods and rocker arm covers. These are in two parts, one rod comes up from the cam, and above that is another rod continuing up to the rockers. We have no idea. Anyway we should get a full set for each of the six cylinders. I just wrote to Bell. Who else can I contact for a full set? (Don't know what other surprises lurk....) What caused this? Car sat for years, then we did what we needed to do and it started right up, running quite nicely, in fact. Then Saturday morning, ready to drive it down town for a car show and it didn't start, like a fuel line was plugged, ignition screwed up, or whatever. Battery went down so it sat until this morning when my mechanic came to check it out. I can't see that happening without several valves being so stuck that the rods bent and broke trying to turn the engine over. We had no indication of any such problems, but lo and behold they are HERE. FWIW, one of the valves is slow to close on its own... That's about as for as we have made it. Steve Davis Holdenville OK
  4. I had that trouble with a 27 Pierce Model 36 EDL. Car drove fine up to and past 40, but later after driving, slowing down, speeding up, and finally about 40 the car just shakes like it is about to fly to pieces. It has tall wood spoke wheels, to, adding to "The Skeer". My mechanic said that the tires, expensive Lesters, had flat spots on them from long storage, and he thought that when the wheels turned just so [a kind of harmonics set in]. It might take some driving around before the front wheels get back to "just so", then the shakes happen again. They keep up with the same ferocity until the car stops completely. "Dang". I said, or something similar. It sure would be an expensive experiment to buy two new Lesters, even if we COULD find them. Then the waters parted before me and I remembered the spare! That sure had no flat spots. So we changed one of the front tires and the problem disappeared. I just knew the whole front end was trash, and the front wheels broken up. Exact same thing happened with a Model T. Swapping the tires around solved the awful shakes.
  5. Guys and Gals, I was told by one of you, or found in and earlier post, that Tom van Meeteren is the guy to contact for brushes and electrical parts. I have an address: 11026 E. County Road Y Valley NE 68064 Can you help me find him? Phone number? If not, can you help me find brushes for my starter/generator? The starter guy who just KNEW he could rebuild it....can't. I knew it wouldn't be easy when he first saw it and said, "I've never seen anything like that!" My poor car is standing around with his drawers down and is very embarrassed. Thank you.
  6. Howdy, Georgia Boy! Does Tom have a phone number or an email address? I have a nice original 22 EDL
  7. Hello again, Gents We need to pull the starter/generator to rebuild but need help getting her out. Do we need to remove the radiator and everything behind it so we can move the thing forward and out of the flywheel? Or is there a better way?
  8. Hi, Folks, and please don't laugh! I have a four cylinder 1923 Buick. Hell, I have TWO of them. Now I need the above mentioned cap, rotor, points, condenser, I suppose, and whatever other ignition parts there are. I checked Bob's and he has nothing at all. Can some of you help????? I'm at the end of my parts-hunting tether. Thanks a bunch in advance. Steve
  9. H, Folks, Thought I'd give this another try. There seems to be little problem finding someone who will sell just what I need-- compressor, drier, etc., etc., but so far everyone goes into a coma when the subject turns to a bracket for mounting the stuff to the engine. Is this some forgotten art? Do I really have to slog through the salvage yards looking for some bracket which might or might not work for the several systems which appear to be available? Steve in Oklahoma, where it is raining and cool. Finally.
  10. Hi there, Mr. Restorer! thanks for the "get-back". Yes, I am a geezer, and I do remember CB lingo. Anyway: Who can I hire to make a new aluminum casting. And further, I have a 29 Hudson Super Six with a broken exhaust manifold. who can fix it? Or cast a replacement? It's a waste without it. With it it would run like a Deere! Thanks again, Steve
  11. Good Morning, Gents! We dragged out my Mack AB to find that the radiator is leaking like a.... well, you know. The liquid is pouring through the lower tank or portion which is made of now fully perforated cast aluminum. That lower part is full of crystalline copper sulfate and god knows what other toxic and hideous materials. Looks like someone in the past used JB Weld, smeared all over the bottom.... What a mess! I know the big guys are able to weld up problems like this in aluminum, but I don't know about anyone here in Green Acres. What about some sort of resin, epoxy or such? Think about a cast aluminum trough with the bottom rotted out. I think a search for a replacement, uh, no.... not too likely. Sure appreciate you guys! Steve
  12. I have a mechanically nice 64 Olds 4 dr. It's not my father's Oldsmobile 'cause his was white and was a Rocket! My mechanic guru figured out an aftermarket a/c unit which would work but was stumped by the need for a bracket. Any ideas? Thanks, Guys,
  13. Good Evening Friends, How is it possible to be more confused about a two door, solid pillar, 53 Plymouth! Is there such a thing as a 2dr "Club Sedan" in "savoy"? I thought all 53 Savoys were station wagons???? Looks like there was a "Club Coupe". Was this a different animal for HEADLINER purposes? I guess I am asking if all 53 2dr solid pillar models used the same headliner? Mine's s/n is 20611810. Sure would like to order correctly. Best always, Steve
  14. Mine has breaks, and we have had no success with welding. Can anybody help?
  15. Hi, Folks. It never fails. When I discontinue my subscriptions to relevant periodicals I will soon renew my interest in the subject matter, here the 160x model Pierce EDL. And I don't have a manual of any type. Cat on ebay has one for 279.00 YIKES! Should I just bite the bullet? Or does someone out there have a better choice for me? Even a xerox copy? Thanks, folks, and I guess it is time to renew my PAS membership.
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