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Everything posted by buick4547

  1. I'm going to take a shot here. Does anyone have a line on the where abouts of a new old stock oil gauge for my 1939 special. It is giving me some whacky readings. It reads at just a hair above zero when the engine is running at optimum temperature. I have tested the actual oil pressure by hooking up an auxiliary gauge to it and it shows the engine running at about 45 pounds at normal use, which according to the shop manual, is about right. I know that I could take the gauge out to have it reconditioned, and I may, but I thought I'd look for a NOS first. Thanks.
  2. Thanks to everyone for their response to my original post. The bias ply tires I have now really haven't given me many problems, and other than catching them in a crack in the road from time to time, I haven't had much in the way of handling problems. And as some have said, a prewar car like my '39 really does have to be driven with some care and alertness. I don't drive it much faster than 55-60 MPH, and I'm always conscious of who and what is around me. Rarely am I on an interstate highway, and I would be avoiding interstates whether I had bias ply or radials. I think 61Polara, Daves 1940 Buick 56, and West Peterson have convinced me to stay with bias ply. And as a final thought, I never thought about the radial bulge that results from using radials. I don't like that aesthetic problem.
  3. Well, this is the spring I replace my 15 year old tires on my '39 special.. I'm debating bias ply versus radials. I have bias ply now. Which do others prefer, and what are the pitfalls in switching to radials?
  4. Does anyone know of a portable power bank and jump starter for a six volt system? There are plenty on the market for 12 volt systems, but I have yet to see one for a six volt system or 6/12 volt combined.
  5. Thanks to all for their reply. Dot 3 and a good flushing it will be!
  6. My stop light switch quits working every three years or so. I install a new one and it works fine for a few years than stops working and then the cycle continues. I think I once saw a post that stated that the failure had to do with the switch not compatible with modern brake fluids. Is this true or did i just dream it? Thanks
  7. Nope, a whole lot further north of that.
  8. Okay, thanks for the info, fins, and I'm glad I could provide some entertainment. I had read in other forums where some guys were not to thrilled with Dynaflows, but maybe they were folks that just got stuck with a lemon or tired transmissions. Wikipedia, (for what they know), says that Dynaflow was an option on 1949 Buick Supers as an all encompassing statement. I guess that means convertibles too. While we are on the subject, where is the serial number located on this car-firewall? frame? door post? I'm assuming it was used to register the title. I don't think VIN numbers appeared until the 60's. Its kind of important information for me to know. Thanks
  9. Good answers is right. I feel much better now. Pictures will be forth coming as soon as I get it. Thank you all for the responses. Jim
  10. I'm currently looking to purchase a 1949 Super Convertible which has had an older restoration but appears to be in good condition. I'd say between a number 3 and 2 condition. The car does have Dynaflow and I prefer it did not. According to the seller, he has not done any overhaul of the transmission because he has not had a problem with it and did not feel an overhaul was warranted. The car has 72000 miles. I have read in forums where Dynaflows do not, to say the least, have a good reputation. What are you guy's opinion on this, and what can I expect, and also what is the going rate to have a Dynaflow overhauled now a days? Also, the gas gauge does not work. This is a problem I had with my '39, but I was able to fix by repairing a bad ground. The seller did replace the sending unit a few years ago and it did work for some years. But, I'd assume that the sending unit is the culprit, if not a ground problem, or possibly the gauge itself is defective. Any thoughts on this, and how hard is it to get to the gauge, I already know that I'll have to drop the tank if it requires a new sending unit. Other than these two items, I don't see any other problems with the car, although obviously 64 year old cars can have their issues - just like people! thanks, Jim
  11. If I remember correctly, I bought some of those knobs from Al Bell of Sarasota, Fla. I think he passed on, but his company still exists at the following site: 1955 Buick Gas Gauge Dash Unit, Works items in Bell Buick Parts store on eBay! Worth a try. Jim
  12. This would be great to use working under my '39.......................!! An electric driven hydraulic chair.
  13. Grant thanks, but now a follow-up Question: Is there a diaphram type of starter switch, and is there a Bakelite type of starter switch, (2 different types of switches possible on a '39 )? Because I think mine is the Bakelite type without a diaphram . Or have I confused you by the question? I visit the state of confusion quite often myself.
  14. Whoa, that's a good looking plate, not to mention the fine Buick attached to it! I'd leave it as it is. Jim
  15. Well with the help of a good friend Tom, who also has a '39 as well as a "54 Super, we were able to install a new Temp gauge in my '39 Special. I replaced the one I mentioned on this forum a couple of weeks ago. The original gauge had "retired" for no apparent reason, except for old age. It was somewhat of a hassel to install the new gauge requiring Tom to wedge himself between the front seat and firewall while trying look up and behind the dash to unscrew the old pod which contains the temp and oil gauges, and then returning them to the backside of the dash after we had installed the new temp gauge in the pod. Tom was chosen for this annoying task because he is somewhat thinner than me - ample girth has its advantages at times! The new gauge works in a stellar fashion. I do have another problem, however. At times the starter refuses to do anything at all. Then, at other times it performs well and as intended by Buick. There are those times when you flip the ignition switch on, press the accelorator and nothing happens. Then all of a sudden on the third or fourth try it works fine. And then some days I have no problem at all, each start is perfect. I suspect the starter switch at the carbureator may be the culprit because when it doesn't start, as a last resort, I can place a jumper wire via alligator clips from the positive side of the battery to the left side of the switch, (driver's side), and the starter turns over as it should and the car starts. So, what do you think? I'm sure Grant or Danny will be able to diagnose this situation easily. As always, thanks for your help, Jim
  16. One more question for whomever wants to answer. Can someone recommend a good firm for gage repair to whom I can send the gage and tube to get them repaired? Thanks again, Jim
  17. Thanks Danny. It is hard for me to belive that I cracked or broke the tube since I haven't been any where near it. But then something had to happen???? I guess I'll take your advise and give it to an expert. But let me whine one more time about having to stand on my head to remove the gage which is located at the worse possible postion on the dash and hardest to get to. Whine Whine Whine! Now I feel better - somewhat!
  18. The far left is cold. It is stuck on cold. Thanks for your help. I didn't realize those things were so complicated. Thanks for your response.
  19. Apparently my '39 Special's temp gage decided to retire today after 74 years of superlative service. Any way, it quit during a little joy ride I was taking today. It is pegged to the far left side - hot or cold engine - it doesn't matter. It has never failed before. So, I'd appreciate some trouble shooting help. What do you think? Something tells me that I'll end up standing on my head wedged in between the seat and dashboard replacing the capillary tube, or whatever you call it, that runs from the gage to the engine. By the way, how is it fastened to the gage and where is the other end bolted to the cylinder head-I think the FRONT RIGHT HAND CORNER - if I remember correctly? I haven't looked at it much as yet. I'm giving myself a day of rest before I tackle it. Please tell me there is something simpler that could be the problem - because I'll certainly go there first. As always, thanks for the help! Jim
  20. Okay, first thank you for providing "Posting Photos To the BCA Site For Dumbies" info. Now, I do think the size of the photos is where I am running into trouble. I followed McDurrunt's instructions to the letter, but after clicking on "Upload", and after a few seconds, I get the message: "Upload of Photo Failed". The size of the photo is 2.27MB and it is a .JPG photo. Does that help you help me? Thanks again, Jim
  21. Here I am again, web-site challenged. Could someone advise me on how to post a photo in 25 words or less. I've tried to provide one from my photo library, but the site won't accept it. All help is appreciated. Thanks, Jim
  22. Back at you, but: How does one become a '39 Buick Team Member? Or am I one already simply because I have a '39 Special?
  23. Probably a '39 because its the only Buick I own. But I love any prewar Buick with sidemounts. Wish mine had them.
  24. Grant, I'm going to show my ignorance here, but it won't be the first nor last time - so why not? As you noted '39 was the first year for indicators and only on the trunk lid, and might I add that most drivers are unaware of their location because that isn't where they would look for them, and in addition, they aren't bright enough to really be noticed by some drivers. Also, as eluded to by other posters, I 'm not sure some twenty something little chick who is following me closely while texting to Madge, her best friend, has a clue that my extending my arm and hand horizonally out the drivers window means I'm antcipating and signaling a left hand turn and she should so anticipate the same. I mean handsignals went out of style about 40-50 years before she was born, and she probably thinks I'm some old fossil in an old fossil of a car suffering from some early form of rigor mortis. It truly is scary sometimes to peek into my rearview mirror. Given the aforementioned situations, I would like to have my brake lights double up as turn signals but I'm unsure as to how to go about that. You mention Guide B-31 backing lights, but - and here is where the ignorance raises its ugly head - what are Guide B-31 backing lights? So could you please advise me as to what those lights are and as to what the simplest and easiest methods there are to add turn signals to my brake lights? I assume I wire them into my existing flasher some how , and I guess I use two filiment bulbs, ( a part number here would help), but what else do I need to know and do? Thanks to Grant and others in advance for sharing their valuable knowledge. I know I can count on you as I always do. Jim
  25. I did the pull the pan thing on my'39 in June, 2010. I couldn't believe the guck I cleaned out of the pan. But then it is an original car, and I'm pretty sure that that was 71 years of crud I cleaned out of there. The crank and lower engine looked good as far as I could determine. Car runs strong and I have oil pressure - good enough for me. I still use 30wt non-detergent oil as I have for 35 years - don't see any reason to change now. Car has 66,000 miles. Its my only antique and I love it almost as much as I love my wife and kids - almost! Cheers, Jim!
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