Kerry_Gifford

In reply to Tom_Wasil, I presume that you still having airflow restriction? If you look at my third pic showing the firewall, at the very upper left part of the pic, you can see part of the fresh air intake opening with the wire-mesh screen underneath the slots. I vacuumed off this when I cleaned the core. Maybe yours is dirty or clogged?

Sorry about posting pics that are too large. I think I can edit that post and attach much smaller pics. Does anyone know if I will be able to delete the large ones? If so, please let me know how.

In reply to SteveSkyhawk, I'm really happy with the airflow I'm getting. If you like, I can post a drawing from my Reatta service manual that shows the different airflows based on whether A/C, heater or both are in use. In the drawing, air is forced thru evaporator core, and depending on the position of a door, the air either goes thru the heater core or around it. So, if you were able to tear out some of the dash paneling and whatever else, you'll could be trying to get compressed air to go thru the heater core and/or a door before it ever gets to the evaporator core. I wonder just how much impact this may have for all this effort. Also, I removed the both wiring plugs from ECC power module on two different occasion, and it didn't fire the airbag. If you're really concern, you can disconnect the battery although I didn't both times.

Here's some pics of my cleaning.....

I have air output!! Of the two cleaning methods, I had concerns about using water since I felt that if there too much stuff to remove, it could clog up the drain hole and overflow into the car. Plus, I felt that it is best way to remove the junk is to pull it out of the evaporator core in reverse of airflow, thus vacuuming is the way to do it. But I didn't think I could get the best cleaning job by working thru the brower control opening using something like Barney's neat homemade tool. So I decided to pull the blower motor out completely and use that opening to clean the core. The core was really dirty, and I can see why there was no airflow thru the floor/panel/defrost vents. I used Barney's idea of a 90 degree vacuum nozzle (I used a 1/2" PVC elbow), and it nearly fit inside the shop vac hose, and I used some tape to hold it place. It worked great, and I got the evaporator core all cleaned off. I have taken some pics, but I don't know how to add them to my post. If someone wants to see them and can tell me how to post the pics, I'll do it. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Hi ames63. The control consist of two parts, a aluminum body with fins and a electrical module. There's no moving parts. My thinking is that the aluminum part is for air temperature detecting and the whole blower control is used for temperature data feed in heating & A/C functions. I did clean this control, but it didn't appear to have any effect in air output, so maybe I might get a more accurate temperature reading display?? :-) I will post the results of my cleaning work later.

Well, I've been thinking afterwards that something is amiss from 63viking instructions. I'm sure he meant to CLEAN the evaporator core, not the module <duh>. So, when I was looking thru the module opening, I was probably looking at the core which is on the wall of the interior compartment side (am I right?!?), and I recall it was kinda grayish looking and almost looked like it was a solid surface. Do you know if the evaporator core is made of aluminum or copper? If it is copper, why the gray appearance? If the evaporator is where I think it is, then I plan on pulling only the ECC module and use the shop vac first to clean the evaporator, and then spray on Simple Green (a degreaser) and use a bottle brush to clean it and let it sit a minute and rinse off, and then repeat. Cat hair?!? How did that get in there? :-) Thanks Barney.

Well, with limited view and using small mirror and flashlight, I was not able to see anything inside the blower assembly. I did clean the ECC module only, and did not hose out the blower assembly with water. And I checked and didn't see any loose/missing/broken vaucuum line. I still have the low air problem from the floor, panel and defrost vents. So I'm thinking that I must have some kind of in-coming air restriction, but I do not know what is the air flow schematic is. Does anyone know where the incoming air is coming from? Or does anyone have other suggestions? BTW, I eliminated a vibration whenever HIGH fan is on--the blower motor wasn't screwed all the way in completely. Thanks.

Thanks to 63viking for the pic which will help alot. And thanks to steveshyhawk for his tip for I will check that out too. Since I'm second owner, I know that this has never been cleaned out, so I'm going in for sure to check. Thanks.

Thank you 63viking and Daves89 for your replies. I will pull the blower motor from the firewall on engine side and go from there. However, I'm not sure what and where is the blower control? Thanks.

I converted my coolant to R-134a many years ago using a kit that I got from Buick service shop. It is made by Interdynamics, and the model # is KZ-3. I later found this kit in autopart stores. It A/C is still working for me.

I have an '88 that I've had for over 10 yrs, and now whenever I turn the fan on HIGH, I get very little air coming out. In fact, it feels like the fan is still on LOW, but it sounds louder which tells me that it's is spinning higher. The low air output is the same when using HEAT or A/C. Switching to AUTO fan makes no difference either. So, where do I start, and what to look for? Thanks.

Delco spark plug wires part # 616K for $35.00 Six Delco spark plugs RapidFire #14 for $4.25 each Will sell separately, and you pay for shipping and chose carrier. You can contact me at kgifford1@yahoo.com

This weekend, I finally got the chance to change plugs and spark wires. The plugs were just a little black, and all but one spark wire failed the continuity test. I got to test drive it today and happy to say that the jerking or missing problem is gone! Thanks again for all your help and inputs.

does any '88 come standard with RKE? How can I find out if my car have it or can be retrofitted or upgraded to one?