pepcak

Looking for restorable water pump body to fit 1917 D45 Buick. Good solid body will suffice, complete pump assembly in any condition (frozen, cut shaft etc.) will work too. Thanks for any offers. Josef

Hi Larry, no way I wanted to say Mark is not good guy.. I wanted to say that in Europe we really need to rely on you guys in USA as the supply of parts here is really limited. Josef

Hi Mark, thanks for your kind response My issue is that I am in Prague, Czech Republic and I only need to seek help from good people on the other side of big pond .... Josef

Hi, looking to buy two (one is also a help) 26" flat base Baker rims in restorable condition for my 1917 D45. They are for Straight side 34x4 tyre. Should be 2 3/4" or 2 11/16" (68 to 70mm) wide at tyre bead. 4 locking pins and angle split. Any offers considered. Josef

Ben, I appreciate both approaches, that is to keep irreplaceable original books as safe and clean as possible (here I understand the concern of your friend you mentioned) For workshop use you can always scan these original books and print as many sheets as you need and when you need. This is not so much effort in my view. Josef

Offering 8 rim wedges / clamps for early 1920s Buick. Maybe fit another year or model. They have seen better times, but are far better than nothing. Parts are in Prague, Czech Republic (Europe). PM for details.

I believe that 6.00 - 21" is correct size for 28 Master. with Buffalo A5 wheels. I had original Dunlop tires in this size on my car and bought the same size from Coker. I think 7.00 or 8.00 would look really fat. Is you car model 28-47 on 121" wheelbase? I love these Buffalo wheels, do you have all 6 of them? Difficult to source them these days.... PS: looking into 1928 Shop manual right now, is says tire size for Master (120" and 128" wheelbase cars) at 33x6 (6.00 tire on 21" rim) or 31x5.25 for Standard (114" wheelbase cars) . The math does not quite work with 5.25", but I think this size is not available anyway for 21 rims.

Ok, guage is out and looks to be in working order. Surprised by not-so-nice workmanship - rivets or bolts possibly not needed, but the soldering is at least questionable...

I will try to reiterate the question again / does anybody know the lenght of axle shafts for 1917 6 cyl model D45? @SummitA - do you know what lenght you need for your car?

Hugh, the strap wrench looks to be a right solution for my issue, thank you. I will report back. Josef

Exhaust silencer is back in its place, with new tubing. We kept the smallest tube original. Another question raised today after we pulled petrol tank - there is nice original gauge, but seems to be stuck. How to get it out of the tank? There are no visible screws or rivets, is the gauge flange soldered directly to the tank?

Hi Terry, thanks for the response. So - any idea about the lenght of D45 shafts? I suspect that the parts I am offered come off 4 cyl model but I have no way to prove it. Josef

Sorry for being a bit off topic, but does anybody know if the axle shafts (and hubs) interchange between 4 cyl (D35) and 6cyl (D45) models of 1916/17 age? I was offered a decent set of some 32 3/4 llong shafts and not sure if it can be used for my 1917 D45. thanks for any advice. Josef

@ Ben - thanks for your response. I just placed the pictures here to keep the discussion going and hopefully get more feedback about missing / incorrect things. So you say the inlet & exhaust tubes, water pump and vacuum tank were originally black, correct? Was that gloss, semi, dull? What about the ignition wire tube and water outlet / inlet? I will look closer onto cylinder block (yes, it looks somewhat greenish even to me) and crankcase, if it is painted or not. In this stage I lean towards making the car running in "Morgan Wright style" should you will and deal with colors / details later on. @ Morgan - thanks for the hint on the plug terminals, I will put it on my wish list.... 🙂 Next question I have here is regarding the speedo drive. Front right wheel hub has (I think) 4 threaded holes for the ring gear,, wheel angle gear is missing and the bowden wire too. Does anybody here have a pictures / details of original setup? From internet search it seems there is a really wide variety of these gears so I am not sure what I should look for.

Wow... not sure when the ad is dated from but it shows some impressive numbers..... I guess there still must be one piece for me somewhere 🙂

Great! Clear plate glass it will be, that makes things easier 🙂 Surely I want to use original spark plug terminals if possible at all, but I only have 5 of them, seeking for 6th one...

Gents, thanks for replies. Lets see what parts book has to say, if anything. In meanwhile another question -about headlamp lenses - are they just piece of clear glass, "frozen" glass or with pattern of some sort? Cannot figure out from internet pictures. Few pictures of my engine. All linkages there, and still functional. AC 76 plugs. Does anybody have extra spark plug terminal and is willing to part with it? Switch box already underway. way.

Bob, I see that, thank you. So what is the horn / Sparton? Klaxon? Other? Which type? And looks like there is a special piece of steel to fasten it to the frame - is that original? Josef

Hi, have another question - do the axle shafts and mating wheel hubs interchange between 4cyl and 6cyl models? My (6cyl) part book is only about to come, but have no reference to 4 cyl at all. I was offered a decent pair with lenght of some 32 3/4" but I suspect the lot they are part of is from 4cyl car. Any reference as to correct type and location of the horn? Thanks in advance. Josef

Gary, did you find some? I am seeking for one too.... Also looking for rim wedges, any chance? thanks, Josef

Larry, indeed I am interested. Josef

Don, thats where I would seek too, despite inch sizes does not exist here (neither do true hardware stores anymore). 🙂 Talked to the people who does various roof hardware, ordered tubes today. Seems at your picture that piece of pipe from cut out is also missing???? Maybe did not exist at all??? Josef

"Larry, do you still have the key for Delco switch board? I would be interested to get one.. THX, Josef

Hi Terry, thanks for hint; I just had a feel the "Buick" ones does not appera to sit right. My muffler looks little bit different, the elbow with cut out looks similar but not the same. There is sheet metal part riveted to the elbow casting that actually forms the seat for tubes. Same as Bob Engle showed elsewhere. Josef

Fiddled with car little bit. Removed stone hard (maybe original ?) tires from the rims. They are 34x4 (on 26 rims). looking for one rim (overall OD approx 693mm, overall width approx 95mm, inner dia approx 652mm, inner width - where the tire sits- approx. 68mm. Pictures of the split and rim lock attached. All wheels appear to be in good condition, tight. and true. Do not use carriage bolts for wedges but some kind of hardware with internal thread through the wood and common machine bolt 1/2" - 20. Wedges are mix of two types, any idea what is correct or better to use? The wider "BUICK" type appear to sit on the nails that fix steel plate to the wood , while the narrower "BAKER" type goes neatly between them. I have approx 8 pcs of "BUICK" type wedges and rest are "BAKER" type. Worked on the exhaust as well. The pipe from engine is in superb condition, very solid. Muffler is rusty, but everything there and can be used as pattern, it is the the same Bob Engle was showing in another thread of this forum, except of the asbestos rope. Any idea how the cut out pipe looked like? I guess there should be something fastened by two bolts opposite the cut out valve? I am going to have new headlamp bezels made, would anybody be interested for a set?