DoubleG

Great and rare collectible "Monarch" speed governor from early 1915 motor car. According to Advertisement, it was used on Fords. To keep those led foot delivery drivers under control. Nice condition! The ad is not included in sale. Used for description only. $75.00 obo.

This working Dodge Brothers generator is still available. Price drop. Now asking $125.00. All offers considered.

Here's some more views of the DB generator I'd like to sell. I will hear any offers. Thanks for looking!

. A rare antique generator from an early Dodge Brothers automobile. Late teens early 1920's. North East Electric Co. 12 Volt. Model G Type 3566 Serial number 911091. Great condition! Works!!! $140.00 plus shipping. Seller will work with buyer on how to ship

Hd45! What a great idea for shipping this thing. This is why I turn to all of you for advice. All you guys are awesome!!!

Hey Keiser! I'll bet you nailed it. It came with a large grouping of DB parts. This would make sense. Thanks so much to you and everyone else who helped me figure this out!

Sold! Thanks so much!!!

Sold! Thank you!!!

SOLD!!! Thanks again!

SOLD!!! Thank you!

Beautiful set of Dodge Brothers front axle wheel spindles. Came off a 1924 DB touring special with steel wheels. Threads are all good. Clean! Great shape! I will dismantle for shipping. $75.00 OBO. I also have the wheel hubs that go with them. I will sell both for $130.00. See photos.

Beautiful set of Dodge Brothers front wheel hubs for steel wheels. Came off a 1924 DB touring special. Comes with inner wheel bearings, felts and washers. Threads are all good. Clean! Great shape! $75.00 OBO. I also have the spindles that go with them. I will sell both the hubs and the spindles for $130.00. See photos.

Vintage 1920's Tiffany Step Plates for Running Board. All slightly different in size. 9 3/4" deep x 11 5/8" wide x 2 3/8" tall. Overhang edge is 7/8". 11" deep x 11" wide x 2 1/4" tall. Overhang edge is 7/8". 9 1/2" deep x 11 1/2" wide x 2 3/8" tall. Overhang edge is 7/8" . $20.00 dollars each or $50.00 for all three. OBO.

Hey Folks! I have this little generator that came with a bunch of early Dodge Brothers parts and I can't find anything on line about it or one that looks like it. The tag is missing. I don't even know if it's a 6 or 12 volt. Can any of you enlighten me as to what I have? I'd like to sell it but don't know much about it. Thanks for any help and advice.

Restorable Delco Remy starter motor for early motor vehicle. Appears to be in good shape. Model # 714Q. Serial # 165647. It's 12" long. 4 1/2" in diameter. All parts move freely. Not frozen or locked up. Surface rust all over. It weighs 22 lbs pounds. Heavy! See photos.

Thanks for all this great info guys! I appreciate it very much. The list is awesome RAH! If anyone needs these please let me know. Thanks again!

Can anyone tell me what automobile these two sets of top irons go to? I think they're off an early Dodge Brothers but not sure. Looking to sell them soon. Thanks for any help and/or expertise.

Hey Mike, I solved my problem by purchasing a replacement bracket bolt from Tom Myers. Mine was simply worn out and wouldn't stay tight. Added a lock washer for good measure. No more trouble! Best! George

Mike, You're talking about the holes to access the storage compartment? The seat is the cover for that area on my car. No wood. If your seat springs are in good shape, you shouldn't have a problem with sagging. George

Mike, When I said the base of the seat, I meant the part that wraps around and forms the sides of the actual seat cushion and covers the seat springs. The ribbed panels that you rest your back and sit your rear on are leather. The sides are some sort of early vinyl. The metal box that is part of the body and the cushions sit on is painted. I'm pretty sure the '24 and '25 are very much the same. Sorry for the confusion. Your car is looking great by the way! GG.

I own a 1924 Dodge Touring that has been in my Wife's family since new. It was used for a long while and then stored away in my her great uncle's barn until I retrieved it seven years ago. The car was worn out and some parts missing but completely original. The floors were covered with two different materials. The floor in the front compartment was covered with a dark gray linoleum and the rear floor boards had carpet held in place with six snap buttons. It was easily removed whenever one desired to do so. The back of the front seat was also covered half way up with the same type of carpet but was attached with trim screws. The seats, front and back, were covered in black leather and a different material around the base of the seats and door panels that looked like leather with a thin cloth backing. The car was purchased in Detroit Michigan by my wife's great uncle who was a floor manager at the Dodge Brothers Plant at the time the car was assembled. This information was given to me by his son Robert Pond.

You can remove the pulley without removing the radiator. If the pin holding the pulley to the shaft can be knocked out easily then you can simply tap the pulley towards the radiator and off the shaft. There is enough room to do this. The problem with it is that after so many years the pin and pulley will have almost welded itself to the shaft due to gunk and rust buildup and would require some heavy pounding to drive the pin out and to knock the pulley off the shaft. This action could cause you to spring the shaft or in other words damage it! When I first removed the pulley from my car I had to take the radiator out and remove the the pulley with the shaft still attached. You need the room to do this. Now, after the restoration of these parts, I can remove just the pulley as needed. You could try soaking the area with a penetrating oil over night to loosen things up. Then give it a go but proceed with caution. I would recommend going the safer route and remove the radiator first. It is not that difficult. Good Luck!

Mike, don't worry the problem is being solved. Thanks very much Platt! GG

I'll check that point gap again. Great advice. Does anyone know how many turns of wire are on the primary and on the secondary?

I live in Southern California in the high Mojave desert. It's so low in humidity that our nation stores away it's unused aircraft here. The car is always garaged in a sealed building. and I have painted the inside of the casing with Eastwood's Glyptal red enamel. Used for insulating electrical boxes or casings. No liquids of any kind are getting on the coil. The original coil that came from my car wasn't rusted either and it had been sitting for forty years in Montana before I got it. You can start to understand why I'm puzzled.