Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JDHolmes

  1. Randy, 55 Stationwagon. Issue is the tank has a solid neck which is curved over and about 1" above the frame member. It is also formed on the backside to match the spare tire holder. There's maybe one inch between the tank and holder. It can't be lowered far enough because of the neck to get it past the spare tire section. I was going to take off the shackles, but that would really solve nothing. However, I'm a firm believer that it went in, so it's got to come out, but at this point, it's going to work as is.
  2. After agonizing hours of attempting to get the tank out, drop the leaf springs to take it out and final determining that it's not coming out without cutting something, I gave up and just cleaned the tank with the POR degunker...twice. There was less than 1/2 gallon of old gas in the tank and after second cleaning, the fluid came out nearly clear. I then flushed the tank completely with water for 30 minutes. No rust flakes, nothing except nice clear water. It drained, and then I blew it dry, and coupled with the 100 degree Texas heat, was left to air dry for several hours. Dumped in new gas
  3. www.hirschauto.com they make most engine colors for most vintage cars. They have aerosol cans also. I've purchased from them for my 53 Pontiac and it looks great. ** they do have Buick Turquoise especially noted for 52 specials in the description. go to paint tab, then engine enamel and the color scroll box will take you where you need to be.
  4. My personal opinion is that the price asked is way outlandish. You could find a pristine original for less than that. A Civic will give you the disc brakes, updated suspension, fine current electronics and ride for that price (and you'll have air bags). Why buy an old car with current amenities? Which is important, the old car look or the new car "stuff"? Note that the above is a reflection of my opinion only and has no impact on what others like or is it meant to demean others' choices. In the end, it's your money, spend it like you like.
  5. I'm sure you can find someone who will pay $6-7 for the car. Convertibles are the most valuable of cars. The "negatives" (which really aren't) are more personal that public. I'm not a skylark afficianado as some are here. I just feel that mods away from original hurt the value for anyone trying to take it back to original (as I usually do). Others will want to rod it/modify it.
  6. I know a guy I worked with up near St. Louis last year who was also a car guy. I'll give him a call if I can find his card and see about getting him up there to look at it. It's a longshot but definately worth trying to save a classic.
  7. Earl, has anyone bought it yet? I'll be up there in September and wouldn't mind a trip to get it if the price is right. My wife will kill me for sure, but what's another car <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Will the guy hold it for a couple of months til someone can get up there?
  8. Note, this is my opinion based on your description and Collector Car and Truck Market and Mannheim pricing. This may or may not represent an actual value for your car, but when someone asks this question, I respond because I'm always a buyer and I respond what I'd pay for the car which, in the end, is the real value of the car...what someone is willing to pay for it. Collector lists it at $5375 for #3 condition and Manheim lists at $5100 for fair condition. Due to the need of replacement parts you mentioned, that's what I'd class it as. You might get more if you have all matching numbers.
  9. Congrats on the find Bill. I've been looking for a 63-65 Rivi for a couple of years but just haven't found one that is the right price/condition combination. The horns are remarkable. Both of my 70's have the underhood horns too. My wife thought it was a rigged up job when she saw them. I'm envious! But I hope she turns out to be a winner for you. JD
  10. Thanks for all the sound advice. Bill, many thanks for the local info. It's always good to have resources near. As much as I don't want to do it, I guess I'll be dropping the driver's side leaf spring this afternoon to get the tank out and give it a good ole look see. thanks again
  11. That's the thing...I don't think I need it sealed, just cleaned out of old gas. I'm really not interested in sealing it since I don't believe it needs it. The steps listed were what was sent with the kit.
  12. Ok, I've opened the drain on my tank and while the gas is a bit nasty smelling with varnish, it is not much darker than gas normally is. Just very bad smelling. The tank itself is in great condition as are the lines and fittings (a bit of rust on some fittings, but they turn fine). I've gotten POR-15 tank repair kit, but it doesn't seem as if my tank needs the entire treatment with sealer. I understand that I probably should use the metal-ready to acidify the tank again, but it shouldn't/doesn't appear to need to be sealed due to lack of rust/corrosion. Nothing, absolutely nothing, came fro
  13. I have never purchased a new car for myself (though my spouse and children drove them). I've always opted for older cars mainly because I'm a cheap skate and refuse to buy something that loses 2/3 of it's value in five years. So, I understand your desires very well. Even though you love the 50's era, I think because of a number of factors that others have already mentioned, I'd recommend something in the mid-late 60's or early 70's. Those early 70's cars had a/c for the most part, power steering, were reasonably comfortable and can still be had for reasonable funds. I'm personally thinking
  14. I've heard this works, but can't swear by it but the solution may be as bad as the problem. You can put moth balls in the car. The scent keeps them away. Or, another possibility is to keep a door open and a cat locked in the garage (said tongue in cheek)
  15. JDHolmes

    Fuel lines

    Does anyone know a good place to buy steel fuel lines. I intend to replace mine and can't seem to find a supplier. Thanks Jeff
  16. LAst night I started to drop the tank on my 55 Pontiac wagon. It began easily enough. However, I ran into a stopper. The spare tire holder does not permit the fill spout to go any lower. Hence, the tank is pushed against the leaf spring and the spare tire section, and the fill spout smacks into the panel and curved against it. Am I missing something here or am I not going to be able to get this tank out without dropping the rear end (leaf spring from shackle)? I may just end up draining it (there is still gas in it, though old), degunking it and then putting on new lines and going from the
  17. Thanks for all the thoughtful responses. You've provided some very good suggestions. The materials is the original cloth, two tone. It's never been restored, changed or cut up. There are no rips or tears. The only real issue is that in passenger rear seat corner, there are moisture stains, not from leaks but from??? similar to what someone said in a post. Also, the seats could use a good cleaning. They are not vibrant and you can just tell that they're dirty though there are no obvious dirt stains other than that mentioned above. The door panels, on the other hand, are rags and will be
  18. Thom, go here www.autobodystore.com and go to the forums and ask this question. These guys know their stuff and will provide you with sound advice and explain why you should choose one or the other. Personally, i'm gong bc/cc because based on their info, it is the most chip resistant and will hold up the longest.
  19. The majority of those carpet cleaning systems use chemicals which "attract" dirt after they dry. I'm sure that they would clean it originally, but I'm not really interested in shooting chemicals, which may or may not react with the foam in the seat, into my seats. It MAY work, but the downside is much worse than the upside in my opinion. I imagine that I can buy a steam only cleaner, but again, I'm just worried about what this will do to 53 year old foam, fabric. I just thought there might be a mild cleaning solution that someone had used in the past on 50 era's vehicles that they had good
  20. Interested, but need more details...price is very important obviously to me.
  21. Yeah yeah, I know you are right and knew it before I asked the question...laziness set in. I've just got this car sitting in the driveway right now and the homeowners association is going to send me a letter soon and off to storage it'll go. The car runs and was just being lazy to get it moving and semi-driveable. Plus, it's nearly 100 every day here and I only get about 2 hours, at best, of workable temps an afternoon. Blah, blah blah...excuses is all that is. It's always easier and better to do it right the first time rather than do it twice. I preach that...I probably should listen to
  22. Has anyone tried cleaning their gas tank without removal? My thought was to dump in gas and cleaner, let it set a bit to dissolve whatever's gunked in tank then pump it out through a fuel pump, either electric or standard. Probably won't work, but just curious is anyone has tried anything like this successfully.
  23. Jake, There's no POCI club near here. I'm in Houston, metro of 8 million plus, 4th largest city in the US and no POCI affiliated club. None within 200 miles. I don't complain and then do nothing about it. I wanted to start a club here, but there was not enough expressed interest to get the 10 required original signers. There is another Pontiac club in the area of which I'm a member that is more active...APA Houston. Also, lots of other car clubs. IMHO, part of club/group longevity is involving the younger and getting newcomers involved. This requires member involvement and HELPING new
  24. There are many ways but the simplest and easiest is to take off #1 spark plug wire, put a screwdriver in it that fits the metal plug connector. Then, holding the rubber part of the screwdriver and with your hands touching no metal of the screwdriver, hold the screwdriver near the engine head. Have someone try and start the car. You should see a spark from the screwdriver to the head. Another way, more expensive but easier for non-mechanic is to go to the local auto parts store and buy a spark plug firing tester...actually the same thing as above but has a nice little light to tell if there
  25. Yeah, I've really been impressed with the Buick folks. Lots of sharing of knowledge/info. POCI is often discussing here and there why membership is down and folks are not really active and I'd just say that it's lack of information, lack of help from the older guys. I've sent several emails to the "specialists" listed in Smoke Signals and have received ONE lonely response. Seems that folks have forgotten that to have people interested in joining, something must be FUN. After all, this is a hobby that people do to amuse themselves, socialize, etc. I'm not having much FUN as a POCI member.
  • Create New...