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JDHolmes

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Everything posted by JDHolmes

  1. contact ebay and paypal and put in a dispute.
  2. Didn't get the opporunity to bleed the brakes yesterday due to rain, but I had opened the valves for gravity to pushout some air. No leaks though when I filled up the MC several times and filled the lines. I shall rebuild them if I get any issues with them upon bleeding. I thought the tranny might have a leak also, but not a drop on the driveway nor on the transmission itself. This car was a Utah car and before that an Idaho car so I doubt the heat created issues. Maybe it's just my luck with older cars...I get the strange stuff.
  3. I knew that radiator water and engine water would eventually evaporate from a car left to sit for a long period of time. But, would one expect trans fluid and brake fluid to evaporate also?? My 55 wagon was down six quarts of trans fluid and four cylinders of brake fluid. Replaced the fluids and all is good. Neither system appears to have leaked previously though I can imagine based on the quantity of oil in the engine compartment that regular fluid maintenance was not high on the previous owners list. Nor do I know how long it sat before I bought it.
  4. Thanks very much for the help. I began yesterday with the plugs which were wrong. So, pulled one and it's an AC 44S, small thread head as compared to the large thread head. I'll move on to the distributor parts today if it doesn't rain again. Ron, I finally buckled under and bought a copied manual on ebay and then an original came up (first in a long while that was reasonably priced) and I got that one too. So, now I go from zero manuals to two. Copied one will can go back on ebay for another lucky soul.
  5. I've had off and on luck with O'Reilly's. Apparently they can call their warehouse or somewhere who can look up the part and get it in. I got an oil filter from them early last week the next day I went to pick it up, and one of the jerks there just says they can't get 55 parts. It's hit or miss with those guys. Autozone at least has a dbase that includes 55 but they never have the parts so if they're not busy, I get them to give me part numbers and look that way.
  6. Thanks Ron. I went through the 56 online manual. The parts numbers are not listed. I've tried multiple times to buy a 55 manual but they are scarce and I almost refuse to buy from photocopiers. It's just gnaws on me to make someone illegally copying books a bit richer. Been through all the online parts places but someone in another forum said that Chevy and Pontiac were interchangeable in 55 and provided NAPA numbers. They arrive today. NAPA guys were helpful, it's just that there computers don't have 55 Pontiac in them, at all.
  7. Been to all the parts stores in the area and none have any ignition parts for my 55 wagon. Napa may have cross references but they don't have Pontiac in their listings for 55. Can anyone provide me with parts numbers for : plugs, rotor, condensor, points, cap Any make of part will do and I'll get it cross referenced. It's really strange because Autozone had parts for my 53 but not my 55. Thanks, JD
  8. Thanks Frank. I put Dexron III in the tranny and he moved like new. No oil filter but will put it on tonight and the 15w40 in the engine.
  9. I did a search but didn't really get the information I was looking for. I gleaned that many use 15W40 Rotella in the 50's cars upon oil changes and I understand the reason for not using current oils until after the rebuild. As much gunk as this engine has on it, I'd be surprised if the oil was ever changed...I couldn't pressure wash it off <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> How about transmission fluid? My manual calls for type A, but obviously that's not made any more. I picked up DexronIII as it's stated that it's backward compatible all the way b
  10. Actually, it's a rust free Utah car but yes, it's pretty good overall. There is some rust in the passenger front pan due to a window being left open and the sill plates are very flaky. There's still a long road to go but for me, anyway, a running car is always a good thing. Ron, brake master cylinder is in a very funky spot, you're right there. I filled it with fluid but no pedal. And yes, the spotlight is original. I wont' say it was a determining factor when I bought the car, but it was a nice addition to have. He's really pretty unmolested.
  11. The 55 wagon started on it's own today and runs, ran it around the block. Still no brakes, but that's next on the agenda. Cleaned the tank, new fuel lines, rebuilt the fuel pump. Still no go. Some fittings were leaking so I tightened them down and he runs.
  12. I went and checked Collector Car and Truck and Manheim and I think you're going to be looking at a price more in the $15,000 range. This appears to be a #3 easily and that's over $10 and $13 respectively, and then you are talking with a dealer so....... You mentioned you weren't getting into the Riviera. You don't have one listed in your signature. Why not get rid of it and use towards this one?
  13. I've seen several things lately that have advertised six cylinder in Pontiac's 55-58. However, I just checked a manual and it shows only v-8's from 55-60. Perhaps an ordering option?
  14. I posted this in another thread in this boards, but search "yesterday's tractors". The site offers the ability to list your load and your route and a hauler will contact you with a price. Usually it's guys who are coming back empty and trying to cover costs for the return trip. I was very successful using them.
  15. I've used U-haul trailers very succesfully. It's only $59 a day if you have the time. Don't forget about your other expenses though. Do a web search for "yesterday's tractors". This site has a feature where you can request someone to haul vehicles for you and then they contact you with bids. Normally, it's guys who are headed your way empty for whatever reason and want a load to help cover costs. Pricing was very good, better than normal car haulers. I had a car hauled Salt Lake City to Houston for $900. Best other bid I got was $1480 from advertised car haulers (actually just brokers
  16. I've been "had" three times via ebay. Twice I complained and they did nothing. First case I bought a 92 BMW that had some reported issues, but what he didn't say was that it had been wrecked and he fixed it, part way. I still haven't decided if I'll take that one to small claims court or not. I got a great deal on the car, but still wouldn't have bought it knowing it had been wrecked. I discovered it had been wrecked because of a bent support under the hood. The second time, I won/bought my 55 stationwagon that "no rust except surface rust". They guy had over 1100 positive feedback. Pic
  17. Check the ad. If it offered buyer protection, you only have 35 days to use it. I know, I got burned on the days. They will do NOTHING past 35 days. If you paid it with Paypal at all, you can go to paypal and get that money back. Beyond that, if it didn't sell with the ebay buyer protection, your only recourse is to leave negative feedback (whooopie, big deal there) and sue them. I doubt this is a small claims case, but he would have to be in your state for that. If the sum is substantial, you'd best get a lawyer and deal with interstate cases.
  18. As always Frank, you're a wealth of knowledge. I went through all my saved bookmarks and shortcuts but didn't find Then and Now. I'll have to add it. This was not a "NOS" kit, this came from Pontiac Restoration. Gaskets are nitrile rubber and the kit looks great except for that one issue. I'll call you're recommendation right now. Again, thanks. JD
  19. I received my fuel pump rebuild kit and have taken the fuel pump apart. Opened the kit, and the fuel diaphram is sent only as the gasket. I was told by the kit supplier, that I would have to cut the old shaft off and press it on the new gasket. I'd have to drill out the existing also. I was ticked off to say the least. Can any of you experienced fuel guys tell me where to get a shaft and how I'm going to make this happen? thanks JD
  20. Thanks for the offer Bill. I'm calling Lawrence this morning.
  21. Yes, I'm going to pull it myself. I was going to take it out, drop the pan and pull out the pistons to see if the rings were bad (re my compression issue), but just decided by the time I get around to all that, the car will rust apart in the garage. So, I'm gonna jerk it out and haul it somewhere and let them do it. I figure it's only going to cost about $500-750 more than if I did it myself (though I could be grossly underestimating the costs, but I figured around $2000 for the rebuild).
  22. I'm in the process of rebuilding my fuel pump for the 55 stationwagon. I received the rebuild kit today and started taking it apart. It is a dual diaphram pump. I have both the top and the bottom off, but I find no way to unhook the diaphram rods from the internal arm without knocking out the pins to the arm (and losing internal springs). Does anyone have a 55 manual who could give me some info. My motors manual is no help whatsoever on this pump, not even an exploded parts view so I'm stuck. thanks JD
  23. How many coats of clear did you use? You shouldn't need to redo it all. You should be able to sand out the runs, cut and buff and it should turn out ok. For more professional advice try this site www.autobodystore.com I have no affiliation with them other than buying and posting. There's a great forum and many wonderful paint experts who can help you solve this issue.
  24. For Bill and those in the Houston area, I've decided to just have my engine rebuilt rather than wading through it myself. Can you all please give me some solid recommendations in the Houston area. This will be a straight 8 rebuild in my 53 Pontiac. Yeah, I know I could go to the Pontiac section but there's less helpful folk due to lack of volume. thanks JD
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