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Everything posted by JDHolmes

  1. I pulled this motor and transmission (3 speed manual) from the truck and am going back in with a different motor. This motor ran and drove prior to pulling it. It will need a new fuel pump and the carb probably deserves a rebuilt, but it is all there, all original. The linkage for the transmission was a bit sloppy and could do with some new bushings. I'd like to get $400 for the pair but am negotiable. It would probably need to be picked up and I'm in Spring TX, just north of Houston. I could probably crate it for shipping, but would have to charge for those materials. For fastest respons
  2. The car was sold that this came from and it was a 42 Plymouth sedan. I'm unable to tell if this is an original Fulton visor or an aftermarket visor. It's not the prettiest at this time with a lot of paint loss. There are many dings, but almost all of them on flat surfaces for an easy bump out. All mounting brackets are intact and screw holes are there (not torn out). I'd like to get $250 for this but am negotiable. It just needs a good home and with a bit of bump work and some paint, it will be as good as new. It is aluminum, so light and though large, shipping should not be extravagant. Faste
  3. I have several usable items for a 71/72 cutlass supreme for sale. These were parts that came off of a parts car that is now gone, but I stripped it before I scrapped it. Two doors (both sides) with glass. Neither door has visible rust nor bubbles though the driver door has some paint starring which may be bondo beneath. $100 each plus shipping Two front fenders, both have rust at the rear mounting. They are in good condition besides this but will need repair. $25 each plus shipping Hood, no rust. It is usable as is, but to be excellent there will be quite a bit of work to be done. It
  4. Thanks to the forum, the 70 Rivi that I had has gone to a new owner who, I hope, will return her to her former glory. I have the following parts for a 70 Riviera that remain from a parts car Front fenders (both sides) - one side has a small bit of rust at the mounting bracket but very usuable condition. ($100 each plus shipping) One set of skirts - both have some rust but again, an easy enough repair ($50 plus shipping) Front bucket seats, no rips though they do need a good cleaning. these are white. $100 plus shipping Rear seat, white, speaker intact, again needs a good cleaning but very us
  5. Yeah, the title is a bit wrong. Due to recent divorce and the finances associated with that, I'm being forced to liquidate my shop. As such, I have the following cars for sale. 1960 Chevrolet 2 door post - $600.00 plenty of rust, running driving car with title. 1942 Plymouth 4 door sedan - $500.00 no title, very solid with few, if any, body perforations. Motor and tranny are there and it is said to run (I've never tried it). no interior but a rare car due to the start of WWII. 1970 Buick Riviera - $750 was a grandmothers car who should have quit driving sooner. Some dents and dings but I ha
  6. New in box, NAPA brand - $25.00 plus shipping
  7. I have the following original Plymouth parts for sale. These came to me with the car but there was no block or transmission or it would have been restored. intake manifold and carb - these are still together, carb moves - $40 flywheel - $5 starter - some surface rust and has seen better days - $10 voltage regulator -don't know if it works or not - $5 I have the pistons and rods if you are interested, we can talk price (cheap) but the shipping will probably hurt. Shipping is additional based on your prefered vendor and location. Send me a PM with your zip and I'll quote you. JD
  8. I bought a 70 Rivi to use for parts for another that I'm restoring but it turned out to be of little help as the same rusty parts existed on both cars. I have lots of parts and pieces that I would like to sell. Front fenders are good, though one has some small (very small) amount of rust. Good doors. The easiest means is if you just PM me with your needs/wants and I let you know if I have it or not. You will be very happy with the pricing as I'm just trying to move some of these parts to free up space (for other cars parts).<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  9. I bought a 72 cutlass supreme as a parts car for another identical car. It was rusted badly and had lots of shabby patch work, however, the drivetrain was fine. Stock 350 motor and 350( or TH400) transmission complete, still bolted together. Includes all brackets as from the factory on the motor. This is a 2 BBL motor, not the 4bbl. I do not have the numbers off of it with me but will edit this message tomorrow to include those. Motor did run and drive, transmission shifted very well when it was pulled. The motor, however, will need to be rebuilt as it smoked. Price $600. Buyer handles
  10. I'm making one last attempt to sell this vehicle whole before I part it out. As the title reads, 66 Chrysler 300 2 door. The major problem with the car is that the frame is rusted at the transmission cross member on the drivers side. This is a small problem if you have access to replacement frame and/or parts. There is no motor or transmission. I purchased it with each, but the motor had a bad rod bearing. I have since pulled the motor and disassembled it awaiting funds for a rebuild (that I'll be using in a Plymouth coupe). There is also rust, small bubbling in rear quarters. The most
  11. I had no keys but the original keycode, took it to the locksmith and he looked up the code and cut the keys. $30.00 and 15 minutes. This was on a 53 Pontiac.
  12. I use two different brands, but the same formula as POR-15. 1. Degrease the area with a good degreaser. Failure to do this will result in peeling. 2. Knock off the surface rust/scale with a wire wheel. 3. At this point, I use a rust converter, particularly, Picklex. I prefer this because it doesn't need water after application. Others require water then full dry. 4. POR-15 or the like over the whole thing. As part of the original post, you stated POR-15 etches the surface. PLease note that it does NOT etch the surface. A smooth surface needs to be roughened with at least a scotchbrite
  13. check ebay, there's a guy advertising on there that is making pans for the 54
  14. check your PM's, I'll know more this weekend. Didn't find a picture and don't remember if I kept that side. All the stuff's stored upstairs in my shop so I'll know either this afternoon or tomorrow.
  15. Hirsch manifold paint is my vote. Easy application, no muss, no fuss.
  16. Looks like he may have been taken. This car had trim, though removed when it arrived, but there were no trim tabs originally. Seems like the PO got a GS hood and slapped it on a special. Can you tell me the VIN item which identifies the car as a GS please?
  17. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve Braverman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you mean by shot? Any radiator shop should be able to re-core it or repair it. 1953 was before the era of disposable radiators with aluminum cores or plastic tanks. </div></div> Radiator guy said it was "shot". Meaning it would have to be completely redone using some process he used. Cost near $500 but he really didn't seem to want to undertake it. I'm having one made by Superior Radiator as I type. And thanks for all the oth
  18. Looks like the radiator for the 53 is shot so I need to get a new one. Any recommendations? I've searched the web and 53 Pontiac radiators are unknown. Will a Chevy work? thanks JD
  19. A friend just purchased a 66 GS. It had trim the entire length of the car (can see from dirt/paint) but it was not with the car. When speaking with the buyer, he was told that the GS did not have side trim but only the hood trim. Is this correct?
  20. Rebuilt fuel pump worked fine before motor rebuild now it is not pumping. It sat in a box for over a year. It was rebuilt with rubber for new fuel. L8 motor. On manually cycling the arm, we could get "some" suction. The fuel lines are clear. 1. Is it possible to put the cam in backward? The arm seems to be on the lobe correctly and I've taken out and put in the pump no less than 10 times. 2. Will priming the bowl help? Required? I didn't need to do so before, but... thanks JD
  21. Great information. I knew only about the fire, discovered since I posted. I'll check the vin info to see if mine is actually a powerglide car or has an add-on powerglide. I believe it's probably add-on as the water pump is not the one for the trans cooler lines.
  22. Try California Pontiac Restoration I think it www.pontiacparts.net though I'm not positive on that. I've always had good service from them and they stock most things. I rebuilt my 53 fuel pump a while back and believe I got the kit from them, not that expensive.
  23. Here's a picture of my 53, sitting in the garage. His name is Herman. and here's one of his freshly rebuilt engine going into the cleaned up engine bay.
  24. I'm putting the 53 Chieftain back together, ready for the road and came across a couple of questions that I'm unable to answer. I have the parts manual, service and trans manuals so I've done the checking and am still dumbfounded. 1. P8 wire loom mounting is done how? I have two holes through the loom for bolts but there's nothing on the block for mounting. A picture would be great if you have one. 2. This car has a Powerglide tranny. Were powerglides an option in 53 or am I looking at a non-original transmission? 3. If you have a picture or can refer me to a picture of the battery side
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