pepstrebeck
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Posts posted by pepstrebeck
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I just mic'd the end of the axle shaft on my 29 DA, and the thread size for the shaft and the castle nut is 7/8"-14. They do stock these at fastenal.com but I would try the Yellow Pages and see if there is a supplier for nuts and bolts locally, I am fortunate enough to be driving distance from "Acme Bolt and Nut".
Hopefully this is helpful for you in finding the right nuts, good luck, and let me know how it turns out. And again, anyone who may read this, if you know what they torque should be be for the rear wooden wheels on a 1929 DA, please share.
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In your post you don't say how many threads per inch. This is a fairly coarse thread size, I can't remember right now what it is exactly. Also, are you measuring the inside of the nut or the outside diameter of the threads on the end of the axle shaft? I think that it should be 3/4" instead of 11/16" in any case you might want to try fastenal.com they're not too bad for finding what you need.
Hopefully this was of some help, and if anyone knows the torque spec. for the rear wooden wheels on the 1929 DA, I still need to know, thanks and good luck, Pep.
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Thank you for your information. I am however looking for the torque specification for the rear wooden artillery wheels to the axle shaft. These wheels are held on by only one nut, and not by a series of lug nuts. No repair manual that I have been able to locate (Dykes, Chilton, etc.) says anything about this, and couple this with the fact that there were no factory manuals made for the 1929 Dodge DA only compound this problem. Thank you again for your time, help and information it is appreciated.
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I have recently received my new wheels from the wheelright and am in the process of finishing them. Once they are finished and I go to re-install them on the car, what should the torque be on the rear wheels? I have posted this question on the Dodge Brothers Forum with no public response, and some off forum responses of "just tighten 'em down."
If anyone could offer some information as to what the wheels should be torqued to the axle, it would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Pep.
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I have finally received my new wheels from the wheelright and am going to re-install them once they have been finished. My question is this:
What is the proper torque for the rear wheels to the axle?
Any help or information that you may be able to offer would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
Pep
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You may also want to try Lang's Old Car Parts at modeltford.com they sell it for the rear axle it should be about $5 a quart, good luck.
Pep
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Just wanted to drop in some information that I had forgot to include with the information on the Timken bearing numbers. The two numbers below are for the inner and outer cup (race);
14274 (inner)
09194 (outer)
Both of these numbers are Timken and readily available.
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I would reccomend a shop in Wyoming, Michigan called Steves Antique Auto Repair, 1-616-538-0441. They rebuilt the pump for my 29 DA and they did a fantastic job. They will rebuild it as original, or make it leakless.
After asking this same question and receiving a reccomendation for a different shop from a couple of people, I sent my pump out to be rebuilt, big mistake. The "highly reccomended" individual I had sent my pump to for rebuilding did more damage to the pump than good.
Needless to say this individual broke the pulley for my pump, sent me back a different pump with another broken pulley with a note saying "I broke your pulley". No explaination, nothing, and to top it off the pump leaked through the oilers that he had put in. The work done by this individual was, at best, the work of a hack.
If you can't say anything nice don't say anything at all; That is why I won't reccomend this shop, nor list their name. Good luck with your pump, and take my reccomendation with a grain of salt, Pep.
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The wheels are not running true, that is why I sent them to the wheelwright, so they would be able to tell me what was wrong with them. And after having done eight and a half years apprenticeship, and 15 years as a journeyman skilled tradesman I learned to respect the different trades. Wheelwrights do wheels, and I am not a wheelwright. Thanks for your interest and post, still looking for a wheelwright, Pep.
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Thanks for the reccomendation, but this is the source of my problem and question. They had my wheels for two months and didn't even open the boxes that I sent them in, I have them back now and am looking for a different wheelwright. Having them for two months and not even opening the boxes is a bit disconcerting. Thanks again for your reccomendation, still looking for a wheelwright, Pep.
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I am currently having some problems with the wooden artillery wheels on my 29 DA and I am looking for a good wheelwright reccomendations. The one that I have chosen has proven to be much more of a problem than being any kind of help. I would rather be able to drive my Dodge than look at in the garage up on jackstands. Any help or reccomendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Pep.
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What grade of oil are you running in the engine? With 80 lbs. of pressure at a running speed that would make me think it is a thin grade. Either way it sounds like you have good oil pressure, Pep.
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After speaking with someone from technical support at Timken either of the three bearing numbers will work, 14130, 14131, or 14132.
First the 14132 bearing number is obsolete and has been superceded by the "new" number of 14130. It is the same to the previous 14132 number in every way. If you have these bearings they are "old stock" and should be replaced with the new 14130 number.
Second, the 14131 number (which is the original Timken number from the Dodge Brothers Master Parts List) is only different from the 14130 in the respect that the radius at the bottom of the bearing cone is less than that of the 14130. The radius at the bottom of the cone on the 14131 is listed at 0.003" and the radius on the 14130 is much greater at 0.140". As per Timken, this will not be a problem as long as a new matching bearing cup is installed with the new bearing.
I know this has helped to clear up some confusion for me, hopefully someone else will find this helpful as well, good luck.
Pep
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Every information source I have for my DA syas that they should be checked "with the engine at a normal operating temperature". Personally I don't find this condusive to my hand modeling career, but one must sacrifice. One odd thing that I have found is that all of the other sources I have say the same as what you have .004" for the intake and .006" for the exhaust but the owners manual that came with the car says, and I quote;
"The valve lifters should be adjusted to give a clearance from the valve stem of .005 inch when the engine is hot. This may be obtained by adjusting the lifters so that a .004 inch feeler can be passed between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a .006 inch will not pass."
So everybody else seems to say .004" and .006" and the Dodge Brothers say .005" for both valves, who's right? Good luck, I hope this didn't just muddy the waters.
Pep
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To answer your question, they fit great, are only $9.00, and I can get them at the auto parts store just down the street. What number bearings are you using on the front wheels? The Timken numbers from the "Master Parts List" are 09074 and 14131. The bearings that I pulled out were 09074 and a different "14132", I had called Harry Redding (the tech advisor for the DA from the DBC) and he gave me the number 14130 to use. This has lead to a small state of confusion which I am trying to figure out. Thanks for your reply, and good luck.
Pep
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In case anyone is interested I thought that I would share the number of a modern available neoprene seal. The number is 471141, this is the number from National which is owned and manufactured under the Federal-Mogul umbrella. These are for the front wheels. Hope this might help someone, Pep.
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I am looking for some help and information about the tools that would have come with the 1929 DA. After looking through the "Master Parts List" they list a "Tool Kit Assembly" with the part #211112. Next, after going down the "List" the tools that are listed for the DA are;
hammer
pliers
screwdriver
starting crank
jack and handle
oil gun
tire pump
wrenchs 1, 2, 3 & 4
hubcap wrench
water pump packing nut wrench
wheel hub and rim wrench
The only tools that I have with the car right now are the crank and the hub & rim (lug) wrench. If anyone might be able to offer any information as to what these other tools look like, or might be able to share some photos of theirs it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help or information, Pep.
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I am hoping that someone may be able to offer some help or direction in finding a more "modern" seal for my 29 DA. The car has the wooden artillery spoke wheels and I am looking to upgrade the grease seals on the front wheels to replace the existing felt seals. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Pep.
1936 L-Head Compression Pressure
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Both Chiltons and Dykes list the compression as being:
"110 lbs. at cranking speed."
So your calculation is correct, according to the books. Hope this information is helpful, good luck.
I am ending all of my posts with this request, so please forgive me: If anyone knows what the torque should be for the rear wooden wheels to the axle shaft for a 1929 DA, it would be greatly appreciated. Somebodys got to have it written down somewhere.