pepstrebeck
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Posts posted by pepstrebeck
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Just wanted to let you know that I haven't forgotten about the numbers, I just hanen't been able to find them as of yet. You may want to try looking here as well, www.oldmoparts.com I have had good luck with them in the past. I have asked about the mysterious (and never seen by me) Directory of Vendors list from the Dodge Brothers Club before to no avail, so I can not say if they are on it. I will keep looking for the numbers for you.
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I will do my level best to find the numbers for you, however if I can not, the Timken technical assistance line, not the customer service line, should be able to help you with the numbers. The technical assistance line is where I got the information from originally, they were able to give me a current number for every bearing that I needed and the corresponding seals. I will keep looking for the numbers that I have.
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In a word, yes.
The mechanic/garage just needs an older brake lathe that can accomodate the larger diameter. Having the drums turned while on the wheels will ensure that they are running true to the hub, assuming the wheel and hub are both running true (devils advocate). In turn if they are turned while off the wheel the will be true, but may not run true once put back on the wheel. After having gone through an excurciatingly long marathon on my brakes trying to find my phantom problem, the drums were only 0.001" out of round and they were "only" polished on the lathe while they were on the wheels, which in turn took care of my 0.001" out of round problem, but by no means solved my brake problem. As far as the braking system on a 1929 DA is concerned, I won't call myself an expert, but I will say experienced.
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I believe the "large nut" you are talking about is for the relief valve assembly. The manual that I have doesn't give a set amount of fluid to put in, unfortunately. I know there was an article in the April/May issue of the Dodge Brothers Club News on the rebuilding of the Delco Lovejoy shock absorbers, and it explained the entire process fairly well, and if I remember right, there was no majic fill level either.
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I have the numbers around here somewhere, but where at the moment is a small mystery. When I wanted the modern Timken numbers for the wheel bearings on my DA I called Timken and they were happy to help, along with the numbers for all of the bearings (front wheel and rear axle), they also have all the numbers for the corresponding seals, felt and neoprene. I will start to look for them and hopefully will find them soon.
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You may also use hydraulic jack oil.
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Does anyone know, or have a photo of what the fuel line fitting(s) should be that attach the fuel line to the fuel outlet on the tank on a 1929 DA? As with the before talked about brake line fttings, this is a hodge-podge of about six different style of fittings that someone cobbled together to make work and I would like to put the type back on that should be there. As always any help or information (especially a picture) would be appreciated, thanks again, Pep.
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Great to hear that its running well, did you end up flushing out the motor? Hopefully your future problems will be small and insignificant, good luck, Pep.
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So after reading the original post and the following responses: Why is this BS, and what is wrong with following the rules that are set for the entire community?
It sounds as if there are very simple ways to fix the violation and be in complience with the local ordinance that were suggested by the ordinance officer. It would seem that if half as much effort were put into following the rules and the local ordinances as is put into trying to circumvent the system and rub it into someones face, there would not be any problem. The local ordinances are put in place for a reason, to help all the property owners in a community maintain and raise their property value. If there is a problem with a certain ordinance, take it up with your local municipality (clerk, council, zoning board, etc.) and try to have it changed, until then the rules are there for all of us not just those that choose top abide by them. Someone calling the ordinance department is just looking out for his or her property, so why not help them out and look after your own as well?
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Would anyone happen to have a copy of the Directory of Vendors that I have read about in the Dodge Brothers Club News. I have read about it in the newsletter and read about it on the forum as well but I can't seem to find it, nor have I ever seen it. Is this something that should have been mailed to me when I joined the Dodge Brothers Club, and I just didn't receive it? This would probably be a helpful tool to have in trying to find parts and services. Any help or information would be appreciated, Pep.
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I have done the kerosene flush on my model T, model A and 31 Buick but have not had the need to do it my Dodge, but would not hesitate. With each car there were no adverse effects at all. With the model T it was flushed out to get rid of build-up on the magneto from using synthetic motor oil, one of the additives started sticking to the magneto and it started running quite bad. Flushed it out, no problems. With the A the oil was as black and thick as roofing tar, flushed it out, no problems. The Buick had sat for a good number of years (35) and I was unsure of the cleanliness of the engine and flushed it out before I even started it, and as with the other two, no problems, other than it took three gallons of kerosene.
The model T and A both ran better and smoother afterwards, but as for the Buick I had no frame of reference to start with. In each case it was the same:
Remove spark plugs
Drain the oil and fill with kerosene
Crank engine over (I did it about 25-30 times) then drain kerosene
Refill with fresh oil, one quart low, then crank engine over again
Drain oil, refill with fresh oil, full
Crank the engine over again
Drain oil and refill with fresh oil
Replace spark plugs, and enjoy
This is what I have done on three different vehicles with good results and no adverse effects or problems. The T and the A were done three years ago and the Buick was done just this May and each runs very well. The only downside is getting rid of the waste kerosene and oil (in the case of the Buick, 12 gallons), it all just sat in the garage until hazardous waste day at the local recycling center. Good luck with your endeavor, and please keep us posted, Pep.
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Come on guys...anybody, help, please.
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I think the title says it all. This vehicle is not my car, but is still one of the families cars. My areas of interest and scrounging lean toward Dodge Brothers, model T's and Packards so I am at a loss as to where to start looking to find parts for this Buick. Any help or direction that you might be able to offer would be of a great help and truly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help or information, Pep.
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In an on going battle with the braking system on my DA some questions have come up that I need to find some answers for, so any help would be appreciated.
First, the brass fittings that mount the brake hoses and brake lines to the wheel cylinders (as well as the junction on the rear axle), should these fittings be left as unfinished brass, or painted?
Second, after soaking the steel transition fittings (two for the front and one for the rear) in parts cleaner and removing the dirt and paint from them, there appears to be remnants of plating on these fittings. Wether the plating was chrome or cad. I am not certain, but it sure looks as though these were plated at one point in their lives. So the question here is, should these fittings be painted or plated?
Any help or ideas as to what the finish should be on these parts would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance for your time and help, Pep.
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When I needed new bearings for my 29 Dodge DA I called Timken directly and they had all the original numbers for the bearings and seals, as well as they were able to tell me what numbers were obsolete and what the new numbers were that superceded them. That way when I went to a local Timken dealer I didn't sound or look like a complete fool by asking for something they couldn't get. In short if you call Timken customer service directly they should be able to help you out and get you what you need, as well as give you they number of a local dealer, hope this helps.
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Just a question about the last post: If there is no wiring harness on a 1922, how does one connect items suchas the headlights, tail light, horn, ignition switch?
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I would reccomend trying Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. They sell all of the wire, connectors, loom and everything you need, they also sell full harness as well as they will manufacture a harness to your specs and needs, you can go to their website at riwire.com
I have used a variety of their products and have had nothing but positive experiences, and high quality merchandise. The folks you talk to on the phone are very helpful and polite. Hopefully this is helpful, Pep.
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Does it look like the boss has been ground down and re-stamped? From the photo it looks as though there is a faint "0" past the number 7. It might just be a bump on the block or some other explaination, but it sure looks like a faint 0.
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Where exactly is the waterpump leaking from?
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I had tried to post my response on the original thread, but it tells me "we cannot proceed" so I will start a new thread.
I had not read this thread when it was first posted, but it sounds very familiar to a situation that I have been, and am currently dealing with. Hopefully some of the things that I have done and gone through may be able to offer some help, or at least a direction to look. I would first like to say that although my Dodge is a 1929 DA, the braking systems are reasonably close.
First I'll begin with the initial problem, a soft and fading pedal and brakes with no holding power. In listening to my own advice at the start, I saw hoof prints on the ground and instead of looking for a zebra I started looking for a horse. Starting small and working my way up, an inspection of the brakes revealed no visible leaks, a good start. next was to bleed out the brakes, after this was done the pedal was no better.
Next was to move on to the master cylinder. I purchased a rebuild kit, honed out the cylinder, cleaned and flushed the master cylinder thouroughly making sure that the ports inside were clear. Once re-assembled and bled on the bench it was re-installed and the sytem bled again, still no improvement
From here I moved on to making sure that the brakes were properly adjusted. Once all four wheels had been adjusted a new problem was discovered, a leaking front wheel cylinder. Rather than going through the time and trouble of just replacing the one I replaced all four. During the removal and replacement of the wheel cylinders it was discovered that two of the bolts that hold the brake lines to the wheel cylinders and allow the brake fluid to pass through were partially obstructed. Once the wheel cylinders were replaced the system flushed and bled again, and the brakes adjusted the pedal was somewhat better, but by no means was it good. Now the fresh and clean brake fluid that was coming out from the bleeding was as black as pitch. So to re-cap:
No leaks
No air in the system
New wheel cylinders
Brakes properly adjusted
Still a soft and fading pedal
Where to go from here? Next was to double check the diameter of the drums and the thickness of the brake shoes. The brake shoes are new , and the drums come in at spot-on twelve inches. With both of those checking out it was time to move onto the lines and hoses. Upon closer inspection the front hoses did not look bad but the hose from the frame to the rear axle was another story. After the carefully placed loom covering the hose was removed it revealed a hose that was to short and was cobbled to the right length by adding eight different fittings. As with the wheel cylinders, instead of just one, I had ordered all three hoses and as long as I will be putting on new hoses I may as well replace the brake lines.
Upon removal of the brake lines the question of the pitch black brake fluid was answered. The original copper brake lines were severly corroded on the inside, as well as the transitions from the hard lines to the hoses were partially obstructed, these being steel had started to rust somewhat. The brass four-way junction in the middle of the car that splits the pressure for the front and back, and the brass three-way junction on the rear axle were quite corroded as well and partially obstructed. These have since been cleaned and re-installed on the car, new brake lines have been bent and are currently awaiting installation on the car. I am waiting on a new flaring tool that is capable of dong a double flare. So this brings me to the current state of a great looking car that I can not drive. At the worst I am not able to go to the meet in Traverse City, and at the best once done the car will be safe to drive, so again to re-cap:
Rebuilt master cylinder
New wheel cylinders
New brake hoses and lines
Good drums and shoes
No air in the system
Properly adjusted brakes
Not able to make it to the meet in Traverse City (painful because I am only twenty miles away)
Hopefully someone may find something in this helpful, or at least distracting. I followed my own advice and looked for horses, I just didn't count the number of different hoof prints on the ground. Thanks for reading and let me know how you faired, Pep.
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Thanks for your help and idea. I'm wanting to leave that as a last resort, but if nothing else can be found, that will more than likely be the route which I will end up going. I have some hoses on the way from a vendor that I have found, but I will refrain from giving out a name until I am certain that they will fit and are correct. By the way did you have any luck in getting the castle nuts for your rear axle?
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I am currently in the process of replacing the rigid brake lines on my 29 DA and would also like to replace the flexible brake hoses for the front wheels, and the one just before the rear axle. Where might I be able to find a source for these hoses? Any information or leads as to where I might be able to find them would be very helpful. As it stands, if these don't get replaced the car does not move, any and all help is appreciated, Pep.
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Thought I would bring this back up to the top. I am still looking for what the torque should be to hold the rear wheels to the axle. If anyone might know, it would certainly be appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to look, Pep.
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I can not speak for how Packard worked, but back in the days when I worked on a line we had three different colors of paint for the different shifts.
Blue was first shift
Yellow was second shift
Orange was third shift
These different color paint "dabs" would tell the next shift what was finished and where to start. You would see them under the car, in the engine compartment, just about everywhere, but they were small enough you just never really noticed them.
Again I can't speak for Packard, but that is what they always meant for me. Good luck in finding out, Pep.
shock fluid level
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Jason, if you e-mail me your address I will drop a copy of what I have about the shocks into the mail.