pepstrebeck
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Posts posted by pepstrebeck
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End all doubt, have a new one made out of stainless steel. Look at the time effort and expese of repairing and rebuilding your current one versus having a new one made. The gentleman that I bought my 29 from had a new tank made, but had it made from galvanized material. The tank was rusting from the inside out at all of the weld seams. I had a new one made from stainless, no more worries.
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Nickle and chrome palted reflectors will work, the amount of light reflected will just be far less than silver. I heartly reccomend having them resilvered.
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Well, the only question that I can help you with is on the reflectors. They should be silver plated. Try and just polishing them out first to see where your at with them. If they need to be replated I know of a few places that do it, I just don't remember them off of the top of my head. There is a company out in the Pacific Northwest (I believe), named Uvira, and they "replate" with a polished powdered aluminum coating. Everyone that I know that has had it done loves it.
Sorry I couldn't help with the other questions. On a different note, there is a set of N.O.S. 22-26 DB four cylinder headlight lenses on eBay right now, still in the Dodge Brothers box. Good luck.
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I agree completly, there is absolutly nothing wrong with being a bidding sniper, I just questioned what I had read. I only bid in the last three seconds myself, if I get it great, if I don't, oh well.
I had learned early on with eBay (10 years ago, at least), it doesn't pay to bid your maximum amount early. All that is going to happen is people are going to have time to "think about it", and then they just nickel-and-dime the price up. I have found that most people that "complain" about sniper style bidding, either have lost-out in the end, or are the same people that when at a live auction, they wait for the auctioneer to put the starting price in the basement so they can get the item cheap. They know what the item is worth and what they are willing to pay, so why are they just sitting on their hands when the auctioneer starts the item at a higher price?
You will never be able to make everyone happy, no matter what. I have heard many people in the antique car hobby complain that eBay has caused a "crazy" or "insane" inflation in the prices that are being paid for antique car parts. Could it be that it has opened up the hobby to a much larger segment of the population that can't afford to go to swap meet after swap meet looking for parts, and has made them much more accessible to everyone? And in turn, now the parts that others used to get "cheap", they are now having to pay more for them?
For me the bottom line for an auction is this, what ever was paid for the item is exactly what it is worth.
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If I have read the last post (by woodwheels) in this thread correctly, the people that put a bid in on an item in the last five seconds of an auction on eBay are working in conjuction with the seller to do nothing but drive up the price?
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Try Myers Early Dodge Parts at myersearlydodge.com they should be able to help you out. And the wheel cylider may be the same as the DA which you can get at your local auto parts store, wagner number F-695, good luck.
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Ford script on the side cover is 1919 till early 1923. From then on the Ford script was on the top edge.
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A couple of people has suggested that it may be an REO transmission. Would anyone care to dispute this?
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Sorry I forgot to put in the link:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/34371.html?1193609836
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I am sorry I don't have a picture of the transmission in question, but the link below is for a thread on the MTFCA forum, and there is a picture of the transmission in question as well as a link to an old auction for the same transmission. I have one of these transmissions in question, and I would like to find out what it belongs to so I can try and get it to someone who may need it. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks John
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Thought I would bring this topic back to the top.
The Master Parts List lists the Oil Filter Assembly as being the same for the 130, 131, 140, 141, 2249, 2251, 2252, DB and DA, with the part number #211380 and the notation (purolator). This would make it the same for the Victory, Standard and Senior Sixes as well as the DA. Someone must have a source for the correct decal on the filter housing. I can find the round and oval decals, but not the more "square" one that is seen in the photo. Any help or information would be appreciated.
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Carbs #9 and #11 both look to be Stromberg.
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Here are the part numbers from the Master Parts List for some of the tie rod parts and the pitman arm and drag link as well:
Steering Arm
DA
part number 210799
Drag Link Body
DA
part number 210811
Steering Tie Rod Only
129 from number A998614, 130, 131, 140, 141, DA
part number 435241 one per car
Steering Tie Rod Ball
4 cylinder, 128, 129, 130, 131, 140, 141, DA
part number 35244 four per car
Steering Tie Rod End Bearing Spring or Ball Seat Spring
4 cylinder, 128, 129, 130, 131, 140, 141, DA
part number 35245 two per car
Steering Tie Rod End Right
128, 129 after A998614, 130, 131, 140, 141, DA
part number 435242 one per car
Steering Tie Rod End Left
128, 129, 130, 131, 141, DA
part number 35243 one per car
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I believe that a bears natural habitat is indeed a 1950 Studebaker Commander.
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I run the reproduction Champion X Take-Apart style, they run about $20.00-$25.00 a piece depending on where you buy them. For me and my T they run great. You can also buy adapters so you can run 14mm plugs as well, all in all it's a matter of choice, and what your car likes. You should also check out the Model T Ford Club of America website at mtfca.com this topic has been discussed quite often on their forum, godd luck.
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I have always just used the same grease for the universal joints that I have used for both wheel bearings and suspension.
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Budd built body, with two sidemount spares. No room for the side cowl vents.
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The front end suspension and steering are a system, and are inter-connected. I would start by looking at the individual pieces/that make up the system.
Look for a worn spring or worn out spring shackle or busings. This would cause the car to "sag" or "lean" and in turn make the drag link rub. Next would be to check the bearings and king pins. After jacking up the front end of the car, take the wheel by the top and bottom and push and pull (wiggle) it as though you are trying to take it off. If there is any movement first check to make sure that the castle nut is tight, next if the movement is more up and down check the bearings, and if it is more in and out at the top and bottom the king pins may need to be re-bushed or replaced. Also check the size and condition of the balls for the pitman arm and steering arm and make sure that they are indeed round, and not worn undersize. A little bit of slop and wear at each point will add up.
Let us know how it turns out.
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I did the same as described above on my DA and have no problems at all. The filter is installed just after the elbow where the line comes out of the tank, the filter that I am using is from NAPA, and the number is 3011. Send me your e-mail address so I might be able to send you some photos of my DA.
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Would it be possible to see another photo or two?
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Think export.
A car built that was built for export (right hand drive) would have a very busy right side of the engine compartment with both the brake and clutch pedals, the master cylinder, the vacum tank for the fuel, the carburetor and all of it's sundry hook ups. The hole more than likely was for the relocation of some wire/cable or connection that just couldn't be made any other way, it is cheaper and easier to put all of the necessary holes (wether needed on every car or not) in at once, rather than have to come back and put in a few later. I have only seen one DA that was built for export, and unfortunatly the owner was not around as to where I could take a better look. I used the hole to run the wiring for the fog lights, perfect fit for two 16ga. wires with loom.
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Keith,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner (out of town) about the DA. The picture of the dash that you posted is indeed for a DA, I'll try and get out in the next day or two and get you a few pictures of mine. If you want to send me your e-mail address I can send the pictures to you directly. Good luck with your project, and I have seen worse.
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Definitly a DA, the larger one on the left would indeed be the speedometer, and the opening on the right would be for the oil pressure gauge.
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It doesn't sound like it is a DA, as the left most gauge is the speedometer. It would probably be a Senior, if you can post a picture that would be helpful.
Frame and frame #
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
With that number it would be between July and early August 1928, but I think it may have labled as a 1929 series, not sure. But yes, a Standard Six, model 140 or 141.