pepstrebeck
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Posts posted by pepstrebeck
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Thanks for the quick response and help guys. I didn't get through the Pulfer & Williams link yet, but I saw the tag I need at the Classic & Exotic link. The tag is actually for the generator on my Dodge Brothers, but the Dodge guys only sell the wrong shaped tag for some reason, not the right one. My brother has his Packards (733, 740 and a 745) but I can usually get faster help from the forum here. Thanks again for the help.
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I had read a post sometime ago about someone making/selling ID tags for North East starters and generator and now for the life of me, I can't find it. I have searched back through the past posts but no luck. At the time I had read the original post I even went to the trouble of writting down the contact info for whom ever was making/selling them, but now I can't find that either. Any help that you may be able to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and help.
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I remember reading a post sometime ago about some making reproduction ID tags for North East starters and generators, I think possibly on the Packard forum. I have looked back through past posts and can't find it. I had the contact information written down, but now I can't find that either. If anyone might have a lead or a name to help me out, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and help.
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Without tearing into the engine, how would I be able to tell which straight eight engine I have? I got this engine in a box-lot group of parts I bought for my earlier Buick (1930) and I am looking to sell what I don't need. I just want to be sure that I am identifying the engine correctly when I do end up listing it for sale. Thanks for your time and help.
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I ask this question for my brother not for me, he is the Packard guy while I am Dodge Brothers. What if any tricks are there to removing the pitman arm from the steering shaft? I am not "up" on all things Packard so I don't know if the pitman arm is splined, split or whatever. My brother is having a heck of a time in trying to get the pitman arm off so he can remove the steering gearbox and colum. Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated.
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I saw this ad on a different form and thought that someone here may be interested in this. I have no connection to the seller in any way, just wanted to pass it along. If the link doesn't work, just cut and paste.
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The Stewart Warner vacum tanks were on the Export DA, #311676, as well as a Kingston of a differnt number, #300939, from that of the Domestic DA. The Domestic DA would have had the Kingston vacum tank, #44835, at least according to the Master Parts List.
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Forgot to mention, this is from the DBC newsletter.
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Ask for either the Champion W-18 or the W-16-Y, I believe that the stock number on the W-16-Y is 561. These only run between $5 and $7, they are pretty common and are used in a lot of modern "industrial" engines. I am not sure if I am remembering this correctly but the W-18 is a hotter plug than the W-16-Y, I think.
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Rodger,
Thank you for your post on this topic and subject. You touched on a topic that was brought up by one person, and one that I somewhat agree with, the DBC is slanted towards the four cylinder cars. You automatically assumed that my car was earlier, and four cylinder. My Dodge is a 1929 DA, so the 1927 Mechanics manual would be of litle help. And I did not say that the problem with the brakes had been going on for years, that was only your assumption.
As for your questioning of a standing column, why not answer those dozens of quetions that you have tried to "answer personally" in a technical Q&A in the newsletter, you know, share with the rest of the class as other people may be interested in the answer. In your post you brought up three topics that you could write articles about, brakes, body work and the difference in paints, that would be three columns, half of a year of issues. Throw in electrical, fuel pumps and carburetors and you have a whole year of columns. No one is suggesting that you cover every point and topic for every car in each column, but if someone from the club asks you a question, wouldn't that make a good topic for a column from the Technical Coordinator? Please understand that the term "Technical Coordinator" is a broad ranging title that encompasses a wide variety of topics and subjects. We are not looking for you to tell us what to do or whom to have do it, rather just share your information and expertise on the given subject, in a manner or medium that will address it to the largest possible membership, for the good of the order.
And as for your insinuation that I "cannot figure out how to adjust" the brakes myself, you should have asked a question as to what the problem was before making such a statment. The 20+ year member of the DBC that I bought the car from (in "perfectly restored and turn-key condition" a quote from the seller) should have learned how to do brake work properly. At what point in the 1927 Mechanics Instruction Manual does it say to file and grind down pennies and punch a hole in them (off center), that is smaller than the I.D. of the brake line, and than place them at the conecction between the flexible brake hose and the transition fitting? The problem was that the full pressure from the master cylinder was not being allowed to get to the wheel cylinders, accounting for the very soft and fading pedal. I wish someone could tell me what this guy was thinking when he did that.
As for the stuff from eBay, I pulled out the two copies of the DBC neswletter that were sitting on the top of my desk, completely random I assure you:
Vol.25 No.2 Feb/Mar 2007 see pages 6, 13, 20 and 21
Vol.25 No.4 Jun/Jul 2007 see pages 6,10 and 14
Could this column space not be better used (hint, hint)?
And as to your last question, look at the Model A Restores Club (MARC) and the Model T Ford Club of America (MTFCA). Both of these clubs offer that. I was not a charter member of the DBC, but I am a member of the AACA, BCA, PC (Packard), MARC, MTFCA, VMCCA and former member of the DBC, and I must respectfully disagree with you and your point on the DBC newsletter. Again I thank you for your time and for posting a response here, the more people that are reading this board the better.
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Thanks, that is exactly what I am looking for. I have two of these (one with a different glass, most likely replacement), the third a bit differnt in that the bail sits into notches on the top, rather than into the casting. The last is definitly from the Stewart tank, there is a place that sells Packard parts that sells a real nice reproduction of this one, http://byyork.com/tools.html I picked one up for my Packard and it is great. It seems these always get taken off and lost for some reason.
There was a place in Michigan that did work on vacum tanks, they did some work for me about 15 or 20 years ago, great work, I think they were in Essexville and the name was Hotchkiss, I think they are still around. They knew everything about vacum tanks.
The master parts list only lists two numbers for "gasoline filter assembly" one for 1928-1929 2252-Senior Six (#200736), and for the 1929-1930 DB (Senior Six) and 1929-30 DA (#44833). For some reason the bowl for the export DB and DA have a seperate glass bowl listed #396769. The MPL also lists the American DA as having the Kingston tank (#44835) and the American Senior Six (2252, DB) would have another Kingston tank (#203262), while the export would have either the Stewart (#311676) or the Kingston (#300939).
Thanks for the picture, that is what I had needed, John.
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Not to hijack the original thread at all.
I do understand that there is more to a club than just it's newsletter/publication. As for going to the DB meets they have simply been to far away to travel, due to work, family or just sheer cost.
The national meet that was held in Traverse City was not even 30 miles away from me and my car. I could attend, but my car could not due to a problem with the brakes which could not be figured out and made it unsafe to drive, not a new problem but one that had been with the car since I had bought it from a DBC member. At the meet I had talked to numerous individuals about the problem with my car and all that I got from everyone was "talk to this guy" again and again. When I asked if anyone might want to come by and take a look at it, I was told by more than one person "well, that's pretty far" or "we're kind of busy", I was given the polite brush-off. Not a very good experience to help build a shared feeling of camaraderie. Needless to say, I believe this was the start of my no longer being in the DB club. After thirteen years of paying dues, no one from the club asked why I was no longer a member.
For those people that are unable to make it to the meets, the newsletter/publication is fairly important and can be their conection to the club. As to catering to the four cylinder cars, I would say they are a bit more slanted that way, but nothing serious. You had said that you have recently bought a six-cylinder and have gone back through the past issues of the DBC newsletter, what about the new club member that does not have those at his/her disposal? Something I have found that a lot of members of antique/vitage car clubs forget is that the new members have not been in the club for twenty plus years and don't have all of those back issues. Remedial primers can be a very good topic for everyone.
As far as the DBC newsletter is concerend, the editor of the DBC newsletter needs to have the technical coordinator write a standing column (only 6 columns a year) and have the other technical advisors (13 advisors at last count) write more articles, and have less pictures of stuff from eBay. From my thirteen years in the DBC to using this discussion forum, I have garnered more help and information from this forum than being in the club, and this is a good thing. I am very happy to see more people posting on this forum, and welcome even more.
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It may be annoying to you, but I disagree. Not everyone reads all of the different boards, and casting a wider net can, and does, lead to more and different responses. I have seen questions asked on this board, with no answers or response, but being posted on a different board the question gets answered, or at least someone can point the person in the right directon.
I was a member of the DB club for over ten years and finally stopped renewing my membership for a couple of reasons, mostly however due to the poor quality of the newsletter. There was never a standing column written by any of the technical advisors, let alone the head technical advisor. The almost four pages of "stuff people saw on eBay" every issue seemed a little wasteful to me as well. These and a host of other reasons lead to my leaving the DB Club, I still have my DB and enjoy it very much.
I will admit (quite happily) that over the last year to year and a half, the number of people that actually post on this board has increased, and that is a good thing to see happen. Now if we can get the level of participation on this board up to the level of mtfca.com or fordbarn.com, or even the Packard section of this forum, then we'll be doing great. A lot of different people out there have a lot of different information, we just need to share that information, and help each other out.
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Would anyone have a photo of the correct fuel sediment bulb for the vacum tank for the 1929 DA? I have four to choose from, each one a bit different from the next. One came from a Stewart Warner tank and the others from Kingston tanks, just want to make sure that I am putting the right one back on. Thanks for your help.
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I can't speak for anything else, but the 1928 Jordan that I used to have used the Stromberg OO-2.
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It will look pretty until you put in some brake fluid.
The brake fluid will eat right through it. I had brazed the seams on mine and then dressed them back. After that I had it lined at the same time I had my gas tank lined with the Renu process, that was well over five years ago and no problems. Good luck.
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I had it done on my 29 Dodge Brothers a few years back, no problems or complaints. I only had them do the inside, then off to the body shop for a re-paint on the outside. My Dodge has an exposed tank, so it needed to be painted. Just make sure you chase any of the treaded connections on the tank to remove any of the sealer that gets into them.
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Model T running on magneto, yes AC, the voltage depends on engine RPM and strength of magnets. Model T running on battery, 6 volt.
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Model T running on magneto, yes AC, the voltage depends on engine RPM and strength of magnets. Model T running on battery, 6 volt.
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Don't forget about having to polarize the generator. When I got my DA the previous owner said that there was something wrong with the charging system, as it would read a discharge as the engine RPM was increased. Everything in the system checked out fine, polarized the generator, no more problem.
And not "all" Ford cars were positve ground. They built more than a few between 1919 and 1927 that were negative ground, the model T.
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Don't forget about having to polarize the generator. When I got my DA the previous owner said that there was something wrong with the charging system, as it would read a discharge as the engine RPM was increased. Everything in the system checked out fine, polarized the generator, no more problem.
And not "all" Ford cars were positve ground. They built more than a few between 1919 and 1927 that were negative ground, the model T.
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Try myersearlydodge.com I have had nothing but excellent service from them. I would reccomend calling the cell number that is listed on their website.
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The SF-1 is an updraft carburetor, not a sidedraft. The common aftermarket sidedraft Strombergs for the model T were the Stromberg LF, OF, and RF. I can't remember what the aplication is at the moment for the SF-1, but I think it was for something like an International or other truck and tractor applications.
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I would reccomend Bob's Speedometer. They have done work for me in the past and I have always been pleased with the results. http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/bobs/
North East ID tags, generator.
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for the help guys. I haven't gone to the Pulfer and Williams link yet, someone had posted a link for Classic and Exotic as well. I checked out the C&E link and they have the ID tag/plate that I am looking for, but they are out of stock, figures. At least now I have a couple of places to try and get the tags. Thanks again for the help, it is appreciated.