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Ron3660's Achievements

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  1. I have a good pair of front shocks that I just removed from my 1936 / 60. They worked fine and don't leak..I've been driving the car for the past three years and the shocks worked as they should. Located in central Ohio. clasic1936@yahoo.com Ron
  2. I have a trany that I just removed from my 1936 Century / 60. It was working good when I removed it. Never jumped out of gear as I've heard of others doing. It dose make a small ammount of "wine " in 2nd gear. ( not uncommon ). Located in central Ohio. Many other front end parts and complete / running 320 engine , less Manafolds and carb. 6 wheels ready for your paint that have held air with tubeless tires for the past 7 years. Also have a good rear axle, drum to drum with torque tube. If interested in any of this contact ma at clasic1936@yahoo.com
  3. The steering gear on my 1936 60 is very loose. I've tightened it all I can and the old boat still wanders. Alignment is right on . As are ball joints, king pins and wheel bearings. I have a tight box from a 1935 40 that looks to be very similar. My question is. Will the two interchange? If not does anyone have a tight 1936 gear box for sale ? I know. I know. I need to go to the buy / sell forum. thanks for any input, Ron
  4. OK I can do that. Did the 47s also have the water cooled rocker arm shaft ?
  5. Thanks Bill. Let's see if anyone else cares to comment. I don't want the expense of a head rebuild that won't fit my block.
  6. Try checking the vac. line. I had a small crack in mine. I replaced the whole line and fittings. No more problem.
  7. Am I correct in assuming I can use a 1947 320 head on a 1936 320 block? Also. Is the rocker arm assembly interchangeable?
  8. Hey Matt.... I have a question on those compound carbs. I can't figure out how to lean out my rear carb. It runs too rich and carbons up the rear four plugs.. Any ideas, clues, or brain storms are welcome. Thanks Ron
  9. I had Isky re grind my cam to what we used to call a 3/4 race. Only took about a week as I remember. Then bolted on a compound intake with dual Carters. I also had my head milled a bit. I don't remember how much. For an old 1936 Century coupe it will keep up with the best and pass the rest. Ron
  10. Jim, Seam sealer is used by body repair shops. You can find it at any store that sells automotive paint. I'd check with a few body shops and get their ideas on products that might work best with your repair. Good luck. Ron
  11. Don, I'm not sure I know what you mean by converting the starter. I'm using the 6V starter as is. I've converted other cars in the past and used the 6V starter with no problems. Ron
  12. That's what I thought. Now I'm wondering if the bolt pattern and pinion gear on a 1953, 12 volt starter will match up on my 1936 / 320 cu.in. straight 8. I've converted everything to 12 volt but the starter spins so fast it often grinds on the ring gear. This is not a good thing and sounds dreadful. Thanks for your thoughts, ideas, and brain storms.
  13. What year did Buick convert to 12 volt?
  14. My dad's 1909 Model T Ford had a torque tube
  15. I don't know about freshening up. I recovered mine. The rubber was in pieces and pealing. I removed the running boards. Sand blasted and recovered. It's too involved to describe here but if you're interested I can show you.
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