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John_Mereness

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Everything posted by John_Mereness

  1. I have co-run a concours since 1992 (having been involved since 1981), and founded our not-for-profit and Board of Directors in 2006 - Cincinnati Concours d'Elegance (formerly known as Ault Park Concours d'Elegance) www.ohioconcours.com - we are the second oldest continually running Concours in the United States with Pebble Beach being first and Concours of America being third. Here is why I have a great Admiration - this is what it takes to "lean" run our Concours: 15 - Board of Directors 1 - full time Executive Director 1 - 3/4 time Administrative Assistant 1 - part-time Business Manager 1 - CPA firm 40 - Steering & Events Planning Committee members 40-50 Car Selection Committee members 1 - Advertising/Marketing Firm 1 - PR Firm 2 - Advising Attorneys 400 day of show volunteers 1 - Honorary Head Judge 1- Administrative Judge 40 day of show Judges (and another 30 or 40 Hagerty Junior Judges) 200+ gracious Car Owners each year 10+ Artists Countless GENEROUS Sponsors And, I am sure I have forgotten to list countless others. And, we run the largest Hagerty Junior Judging team of any Concours - because we want kids involved (and because they let us and we can do it) ! .
  2. I have seen a lot of shut-offs on the pressure side by the water pump, but also seen some cars with dual shut off's and my thought is cabin heat and/or just dependability of the heater in days of pioneering with cars.
  3. Generally not a good idea as a thermostat is typically also a flow restrictor - coolant needs to be in a radiator for a certain amount of time to cool properly. I would however drill a small hole in the thermostat's edge to allow elimination of potential air pockets and I would go with a 160 thermostat. Then I would play with ignition timing. And, a lot of knowledge on this website - always good to not talk in generalities and tell exactly what car is and ....
  4. Tends to be the average perception. We use ebay as a tool for marketing - gets a lot of views. And in rare instance a car does sell and surprisingly we hold a few record public sales for some lower to even mega high tickets. And I have pulled some advertisements early via low bids, but the savvy bidder uses a bidding program so the bulk of bids come in on the last 3 to 4 or so seconds, so I usually leave the auction going to the end.
  5. That is what Coker says - does not sound to be the best idea and I will leave it at that. I am driving on Diamond Backs - love them (and on a drop center welded spoke NON-LOCK RING type wire wheels I RTV the drop center and apply a gutter strip in process). On a non-wire wheel, I just calk around any rivets and have bought both Goodyears and Diamond Backs.
  6. You would be really surprised if you ran a jumper wire ground from the battery to the headlight socket - I have always tried to recreate such via soldering a jumper wire from the headlight socket to the reflector and or headlight assembly itself - usually gives me I would say about 40% more light.
  7. This style fits just about everything else too (ie it does not have the specifically matched headlight pattern of a Duesneberg - so proper on a Duesenberg and also proper on just about everything else 1929-1931).
  8. A rare enough and a good looking enough car to tackle - will not be an easy one though.
  9. Not to be critical, as you have a nice Model A, though a friend told me a long time ago, that to get top dollar you need three things: First: They suggested never having a speck of rust on a car, including the exhaust. Second: Try your best to correct any exterior issues to the point that whoever brings it home will be immediately proud to show the family and neighbors. Third: Try to get a car as complete as possible - often you are in a better spot to find missing parts than a new buyer. As to above - I would suggest finding a good sign paint to match the paint color and then carefully brush over the mismatched paint on the col and any major chips.
  10. A proper rail is a little more fancy than this - good price, but I would keep looking - perhaps an advertisement on Franklin club webpage itself (in addition to AACA and Horseless carriage club).
  11. Reproduction tires can be a bear to fit under original covers. I have at times had to buy multiple sizes and brands to attempt to get something that works - kind of expensive and time consuming. I did learn a little trick - you can take a grinder and knock off the very edges of the tire tread and the metal covers often fit much better. And, rarely do I find a cover that will fit on a fully inflated tire.
  12. Make sure you have a gutter strip down in your drop center and I always Johnson's Baby Power the tire casing and the tube. For the tube, just put some baby powder down in a glad bag and drop tube in and shake. They do make tire talc, but it is a little hard to find.
  13. Sidenote: You can drive these cars fine if you are willing to put in the time and the money. One trip home we did it just hitting the brakes 3 times as there were really none, one trip home we did it on a cracked cylinder head using 8 quarts of oil and 4 gallons of antifreeze (and then engine was started to be taken out and rebuilt the next day - I am not one to waste time). Other trips were a flat tire, a broken starter bendix bolt, loss of 1st gear more than once, and ... This year we had a leak at the fitting on the oil filter canister and it is pretty oil filmed under hood as a result - will start cleaning it up this week as promised to show car at Dayton Concours d'Elegance. I forgot to mention this was the test drive for the new, new, new, new aluminum cylinder head (# 4 now on car in ownership) - same amount of antifreeze at Auburn as when when left home - hopefully same today to, but spent the day pretty much sleeping.
  14. On this trip we hit 50,430 miles since restored - speedometer clicked over to 50K when on beltway outside of Fort Wayne on way up to meet. We clocked back into the driveway at we think 712 miles round trip this year - lots of winding around Indiana and Ohio on State Routes. 1935 Auburn 851 Salon Phaeton
  15. The Glyptol is fine for coating aluminum (especially if it stands a chance of being porous) - I see it on vintage race engines all the time, especially high end engines (the 500K to million dollar car variety stuff)
  16. This is a good posting for Horseless Carriage Club webpage too - a place where the really big stuff tends to hang out more.
  17. Saw your question: On a RR PI the fenders are actually well bolted to pretty much everything. Many have a full inner fender incorporated too and that was to allow a one size fits all fender to be applied to many different body styles. My RR PI had maybe 15-18 bolts, including to body, splash apron, running board, and gasoline tank cover (w/no bolts into frame). And, I doubt a RR PI frame has any flex to it whatsoever. Also, while the car was made in Springfield Massachusetts, make no mistake about it a RR PI is as English as English cars come, excepting perhaps its buffalo wire wheels.
  18. Matt, any year RR is a commitment - they are incredibly "engineered" and complicated cars compared to other cars of similar vintage from the beginning to even now (very rewarding though when they are what they should be).
  19. I remember all the weekends dad and I worked on English cars to get them running over the weekend, so that he had a dependable car back again on Monday. And I remember him cussing and swearing at garandparent's Mercury's and Lincoln's (and dad never touched them - the dealer came out to their house and got them and returned them), plus all the friends we helped with their cars on weekends to get a dependable car back on Monday. My point being that the first really dependable car we ever had was a 1972 Oldsmobile, so to answer the question of an earlier car in daily use the answer would be that it just depends on your driving habits, but it will be a challenge. Also, I am thinking with most insurance companies you would require a "modern car" as a collector car as a "single" vehicle I doubt would get you coverage.
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