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Everything posted by John_Mereness

  1. Try adding some marvel mystery oil to your oil and/or gas - may smoke some more then, but seems to long term help with original engines with sticking rings and valves.
  2. Nothing to be intimidated about - I have worked on 4 here in town over time and another 5 PI's, a PII, a bunch of 20/25 and 25/30's, and ..... Here is my advice: They are lovely built cars - that said though don't break anything and if you spot something wrong best address it real quick before it really gets to be a problem. Anything you want apart just make sure you start penetrating oiling it a couple days ahead of time. You will need a Whiteworth tool kit to start (and a few high quality adjustable wrenches as a few things are just not anything as to standard size) matched to a few specialized RR tools (most of which are reproduced - Steve Litton sent then to me same day as my phone call asking). The RROC has a DVD or .. of all the old club newsletters, expensive but any problem you have someone has been there before you. Perhaps find a member with a whole set first and double check if you want to go that route. You just need to ask questions too And you need to be willing to throw money at problems whether you are buying whatever, having it machined, or ... They were as expensive as expensive cars come when new and still are today - the window sill penny jar will not cut it and I have seen a lot a heart-ache for those who think they can handle on pennies as will as car just will never be anything someone wants it to be without addressing issues head on with conviction. And, if you do not know what is in oil pan and ..., then clean out as sludged oil will kill everything quick. Start slow - get it to run in garage, then drive, then in front of house, and ....
  3. My experience via is that the buyers are not fond of tan's, brown's (stay around brown), tan/brown, tan/brown/orange, white, some light grey's (depends on car), most greens (except English sports cars in BRG or some 60's Mercedes), certain things in resale red, and ....
  4. Drop a large adjustable wrench over edge of rim and have at it - I have straightened platy if just the edge bead. If not handy, then try a wheel repair shop - there is usually one in every major town that repairs aluminum rims from pot hole damage.
  5. A fun project been there done that on not one of these, but a few other trainwrecks, but I gave up my machine tool skills for lent some years ago for disaster projects like these.
  6. The rear axle means the car has one gear of the Columbia that is a slug - they either lived in town (makes for a beautiful pull off from a traffic light or they lived someplace with hills).
  7. RE: unrestored Cord Beverly sedan I would say 10G to get that unrestored Cord Beverly sedan running or driving if it just needed little stuff (you would be surprised) - probably 25G if you were rebuilding drivetrain (and savvy). And, I would say 10G toward various missing parts - again you would be surprised when you get into one. The last 1935 Auburn 852 S/C phaeton I did was being driven locally with and shown in LA area and to get it really tour capable and authentic to its "nuts and bolts" we spent 40K on drivetrain and misc trim parts (with 30K of that on parts and 10K in labor).
  8. Yes, but I believe there is some modification to the frame up by the font of the engine and in how engine mounts. Incredibly pleasurable cars to drive and pretty easy to get and keep one on the road (engines are very forgiving to keep running).
  9. It is the standard 1929 Walker built Club Sedan (his first photo on the craigslist site is not the car in the rest of the photos) - a very good looking car and my guess not more than 20 of them. Get a set of wire wheels (not a difficult project excepting chrome hubcaps are pretty scare and I do not believe currently reproduced) for it and they get very stunning looking quickly.
  10. A 1929/1930 Series 77 Locke bodied Phaeton just received CCCA classification by application only (I believe you still have to apply) via it having Locke coachwork.
  11. Kind of a tough spot. Looks very "driver quality" as to work and you then need to make the decision to redo or move froward and live with such. If it was going to end up unfinished, someone probably should have just focused on it mechanically and called it a day (of course how would you know your favorite shop owner would retire). Super cool car !
  12. Marvel mystery oil is for ungumming valves and probably helps too with stuck rings - you add it to crusty original/unrestored engines that have not been run in years (basically it is what you would use in a valve oil lubricator). I would be the first person to not use such, but after eons of old timers yelling at me I thought perhaps time I listen and so far I have been pleasantly surprised (addit it in about the last 5 cars I have revived). Once you have run it for a while then I would stop adding it to the oil/change the oil. Not to be rude or anything like that, but I like to get things running that have been laid up for year and then I like to run them on AACA and CCCA tours for a while - basically really drive them (and we rarely if ever trailer a car to and from) and these are the kind of things I found useful in reviving them.
  13. Very true as to under rated, but nevertheless a complicated car and outside of most peoples skill sets matched to keeping one out on the road for touring can at times be hard on the wallet. A friend is currently working on a 1927 PI Prince of Wales Sedan that was nicely restored in the 70's, but not best stored for few years and he said no problem as his formal training was truck mechanics - well a year latter it has challenged him right and left and it turns out it is a problem for him. Then parts prices matched to availability of a few items started getting in the way of life and ...
  14. You are going to stir up a lot of rust chips in cooling system - you may want to consider such as a Gano Filter for the top radiator hose (Summit racing has and ... - do a search). Again, perhaps an Evapo Rust start to a thread - I heard it from Edinmass I believe who likes the product.
  15. An electric pump to prime is fine (done it on every car i have had a vacuum tank on) - that being said though, they can be really dangerous on cars with vacuum tanks as the vacuum tank is vented and usually the vent aims at something like the exhaust manifold or ... matched to carbs having needle and seats not designed for more than 1lb to 1.5 lb pressure of gravity. You can actually use the vacuum tank as a "gas can" more or less while testing on car - it will hold maybe 3 minutes of gas (RR would run about 7 minutes and it had an over-sized vacuum tank with a half gallon or so reserve).
  16. Marvel Mystery Oil is an additive and I think there is a formula on the bottle of how to add to your gas and how to add to your oil, but if not like 1/3 of a quart can/bottle/jar in oil and 1/3 quart in gas (about 3- 5 rattle can lids to start). The more you add the more it will probably smoke out exhaust, but in laid up cars a little smoking is fine.
  17. Focus on getting it garage running first, then running up and down the drive, then around the block, then around the block 5 times or a mile or so, and then ... - you get the idea.
  18. And, there is no harm of running "marvel mystery oil" in car for a while (in both oil and gas)
  19. Once you find gunked up oil in the engine, the next suspects are the rear axle and transmission. Time to also start working the clutch and make sure not stuck. U-joints will need a careful review too. Sidenote: A lot of odd style grease fittings out there - a lot of cars I unscrewed them and had a modern fitting to screw in - then greased and then put old fitting back in.
  20. I also disagree with RTV on both sides of the gasket - one side is fine (do it off the car and spend some time and then rub a little into the seam (when all dry reinstall pan).
  21. I have been hearing a lot about Evapo-Rust (in radiator) - perhaps start a new thread to get feedback
  22. I have had several of these go bad over time - they sort of just one day leak from everywhere.
  23. Here is a discussion item and I am about to say some things that get people all fired up, but after they put 100K miles on a variety of CCCA cars over 30 years then .....: I disagree with pulling bearings caps to measure on something of this age - sometimes on original engines you just best be happy or you best be prepared to fully rebuild (aka sometimes messing with things makes marginal turn to bad really quick). Sometimes I do and sometimes I do not check - just depends. There is of course the unknown, but doubtful this particular packard car was dropped off the road for bad bearings or piston pins (perhaps yes, but ....). You will be able to tell via sound and oil pressure. Also, keep in mind when really hot (and running like 40 or 50 weight) you may not have much oil pressure - it is not pressure as much as it is delivery (you need delivery). Finally, given your not knowing what to look for it perhaps just leave alone. As to oil filter - there are plenty of cars that did not have them in the time period (and that is fine). the reason why it is missing is because they were hard to get at certain periods of time and still a challenge today matched to being quite expensive. I would do first oil change within say an hour or so of driving. Then i would change again say after 50 miles, then another 50. Then every 3 years or 1000 miles whichever comes first. Spend some time wire toothbrushing or. your water passage. Radiator probably needs some help too. Have to go back on the thread - still not sure why electric pump is needed (for priming after long periods of storage yes, but not driving).
  24. Whole thing has a value via 1930-1931 Studebaker and it a lock ring style wheel (ie you should buy the whole wheel if the cost is under 150.00 or so).