John_Mereness

May want to be more specific in your title

Great year and super rare body style !!!

Let's discuss: Someone with wooden wheels should be changing to wire - you have 6 decent (to convert they need really the axels too, brake drums, and etc.). You have a set of fenders better than most people (if they have a rear mounted spare car then you have everything to convert to sidemounts). You reference $600.00 to ship a fender - well, they can restore a fender for 5K plus, so $600 probably is a good price to ship. Someone wants a better grill shell Someone else wants a radiator Someone else wants a steering column Someone else wants bumpers Someone else wants better lights Someone else wants manifolds and if you have it a carb Someone else wants a water pump, starter, and generator. And, the like. That should be a couple thousand in parts And, I agree that you probably have better things to do, but no title, no serial, and technically wrong country (so buying a whole car is probably not in anyone's vision in the US)

Nobody wants a parts car, nobody wants title issues, and nobody wants border issues - but I guarentee they do want your parts from the parts car (also, consider putting the parts at 1/2 of what you think they are worth when you take them off and do volume). And, why would you try to sell every piece and ....., store and ..... ? And, yes, I have a boat anchor collection too - need an Auburn rear axel ?

A good old fashioned Brace and Bit/Hand Drill works well - and the proper sized screwdriver bit for the head too

There will always be a need for 90 Series parts - depends on where and how advetised. As mentioned here, your market is for the parts separated from the car verses selling it as a unit for a parts car - aka guessing you cannot get it over the border without a title and guessing someone in US would pay tax to import too if a Canadian built car. 40K does not go far, especially if ever new wood is needed in the body.

I grew up with dad's first employee's 1929 Stearns Knight 6 Coupe in the driveway and it did smoke upon certain circumstances (start up, pulling a hill, and stomping on it), though it had well over 100K miles on it (possibly over 200K miles on it). That said, I have been around Knight cars most of my life and there is nothing really objectionable to any of them American or European. The only Knight car I thought that was not representative was a Pink Voisen Sedan owned by Clive Kussler - no bugs at Meadowbrook in 1992. No need for any Sleeve Valve car to be static - ever.

Yes, 4mm car

Long Story, though I bought this almost a year ago as a favor to one of dad's mode railroad buddies that I have know since day one of my life and have to say that I really did not look at it at time and really did not spend a minute with it until this week - turns out it really is a 2nd family owned (I would be second) 56K mile 1931 Deluxe Roadster in Washington Blue and all things considered a pretty untouched car in rather exceptional condition for an A. Came with a box of every single part that was not on car, 1950's top, 1950's hot rod interior over top of all the original leather, wheels restored in 1980's, and I restored the headlamps this week. Anyone looking for a "oily rag" car you can use as is or if wanted restore ?

Not sure you would want to be that heavily invested in a hot rod - hate to say it, but perhaps part the car out and get another 10 of them closer to being done.

Apparently, show was also cancelled as vision for network is Shark Tank reruns ?

There has been more than one reproduction RR coachwork builder, though Enfield Restorations created many,

1931 Cadillac 355 V-8 Town Sedan to right (with accessory wire wheels, sidemounts, Lyon brant metal spare tire covers, luggage trunk on rack, and a goddess mascot.

A Buick tends to be a pretty fine car !!!

There was a lot going on at the time, though I recall at the same time as the cam issues, the more pressing issues at time was Cadillac flatheads that were eating up distributor drive gears. Not sure people are aware of the horrific rebuild schedules for 1920's/1930's cars - most cars were into a fairly significant maintenance schedule at 20k miles and when I see "low mileage" at say 60K miles what crosses my mind is that the car is basically "done"/worn out mechanically. Nor are they aware that oil technology left a lot to be desired in 1920's/1930's

No Hirsch fabrics - they have moved on to other fish frying

At one point you were easily able to get factory build sheets for Cadillac's, including pre-war cars and still see the references today: our company’s collection of vehicle build documentation, dealer invoices and/or build sheets, which contains information about individual vehicles produced by GM and exists on various digital and microfilm formats. The documentation is not available for all vehicles and dates only to 1977 for most brands. To request vehicle documentation please email vehicleinvoice@gmmediaarchive.com or call 1-734-261-5086.

Beigh/Tan - they just faded to white very quickly.

To a large degree the build sheets exist for all RR cars. For the Springfield cars, I believe I reached out to https://rollsroycefoundation.org/. There was also a Rolls Royce tracker guy and his collection of information is available at the same time (like many who follow Duesenbergs and other large and/or exotice marques) and those cards (perhaps something called like Wycoff cards or ....) tend to be ok, but not 100% as he relied often on an uninterested owner or hearsey information when a car was not in a large city (those cards caused a lot of confusion/error when "Rolls Royce in America" was written and as a result "now".

Actually, the brake drums look nice in tan as if you saw he car dead straight on via side you see that same tan through the spare wheels via the body. The luggage trunk cover would "generally" match the top. Black top (which tan was the preference of most manufacturers of the time period) and blackwalls in rendering look quite nice !!!

It was apparently a lot of money in the late 1960's/early 1970's too

We were discussing that at a friend's business yesterday - they have expensive overhead as they are "in town" in a very nice area, building, and etc. and they also have clients that are willing to pay for their services as they are in a convenient and nice neighborhood (and see countless collectors wives and kids picking up parts and ...) matched of course to being good at what they do.

swers on this topic and tend to gripe: My "general answer" is time, resourcefullness, tolerance, and money. I get a lot of compliments for getting project done and never had much thought for the person who cannot get out of their own way and X years later is still sourcing a whatever or just telling people of their journeys in sourcing = turns out he who has cars in parts or that do not run "may be into that", though usually do not come out first albeit if the case is you are dead then you will not know what rank you came in). Join a club or clubs that are appropriate (aka if it is bad on your car it is probably been bad on someone else's too). Start asking people if they have machinist friends, welding friends, and .... Realize your limitations and the limitations of others, including technology limitations (ex. some cars should just not be restored). Sometimes it is not about costs - it is about resourcefulness Sometimes it is all about costs. Misc: Pre-WWII diecast will fail - just give in and count on replacement matched to such as tater running through aluminum is not a good thing either (generally speaking), plus there was a lot of marginal to bad engineering out there. Add's Misc.: There was a 1931 Cadillac V-12 Sedan that sold on Ebay a couple years back. For years the car sat with a stuck engine. Apparently, quite a few people inquired and the owner was was not happy with the price offered via peoples concern over engine. A friend of the owner told me he eventually drug it around behind his far tractor to "unstick-it." Guessing it un-stuck it, though also guessing it was just not "the same" or a wanted result. Add'l Add'l Misc.: JB weld is not a solution - if you use it to sell a car to defraud in a sale and someone is savvy, then keep in mind fraud is 3 x times damages.

I just made a simple platforms using a cut up 2 X 10 and 2 x 6 - then made a simple wooden mount for the wheel and drilled a hole through it for a 1/2 steel rod. It does not need to be motorized as you can just take your finger and spin it from the rim as no one will ever see your finger prints. Here is the secret - paint the back sides of everything first, do any needed correction work, and then paint the front side. Sidenote: There is a lovey Lagonda low chassis touring here in town and stopped by the owner's house one day via spotting him in driveway brush painting the wire wheels (and have to say he did a bang-up job.