chieflander

Members
  • Content Count

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About chieflander

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Alright, I took the car to the shop to see if someone else could spot a problem, and the guy that looked at it felt sure there was a crack in the carb, in the bottom half. So, I replaced the bowl half of the carb, and it's still the same problem. A thought dawns on me... could it be badly adjusted valves? Perhaps the intake isn't correct and causing weird problems.
  2. It's not so much in getting the two carbs synchronized as it is to just get the one to stop spitting out gas. I got a rebuild kit today and replaced all the suspect items, including the entire accelerator pump assembly, and still.... it's spitting gas out from the top of the venturi. At least the accelerator pump is functioning as it should, but idling and having any power whatsoever are still elusive... any more ideas?
  3. I have a 1965 Corvair 500, 4 door, with the dual carb 95 horsepower 6 cylinder engine. The primary carb seems to be functioning fine, but the right hand secondary carb is spraying drops of gas from the top of the venturi assembly, from the larger jet. The leakage seems to be less with the engine revved up, but under load the engine really bogs down. Along with revving the motor up, there is more crankcase exhaust from the ventilator tube that seems to coincide with the amount of fuel spraying from the carb. It also seems that there isn't any fuel leaving the 2 jets on the accelerator pump side of the carb as it does on the left hand primary carb. I disassembled the offending carb and found the venturi clogged and the bowls filled with nasty sediment, but now that its been cleaned out the problem still exists. Up until perhaps 4 days ago, the car has been running beautifully without hesitation or sluggishness. So, I'm baffled by the whole thing and I'm hoping some fellow Corvair enthusiast will help me out! I haven't had this car for long, since February, so I'm still very much learning the ins and outs.
  4. I have recently gotten this 64 convertible, and it's been running fine until the night before last when it started missing badly. Then, yesterday, it wouldn't start... The same today. It'll crank and nearly fire, but just won't do it. There is plenty of gas in the filter and it's had a carb rebuild just a few weeks ago. Also, it has new plug wires. I know the obvious question; yes, it has fuel in it. A 1/2 tank, actually. I just can't figure it out... Help! (I've posted on thesamba.com, so I hope perhaps the 2 forums I can get some help)
  5. On my fluid drive, there's a plate that comes up on the passenger side, as he said at 2 o'clock. Then, there's a cover that pops off, and then you have to crank the motor over until the filler plug comes into view.
  6. Actually, the hand-brake blinker still works... and this bulb doesn't actually work, and didn't show that it was getting power. But, it's got the original wiring and base... The light under the glove box is missing all together; bulb, base, wiring. The rear plungers don't appear to be working. Can they be cleaned with contact cleaner and brought back to life? I did something similar in my 1951 Pontiac and it started working again. The toggle switch doesn't seem to function. I flip it back and forth, and nothing happens. Could it be that the light bulb that is just hanging fit behind the same lens as the flasher on the hand-brake?
  7. I have traced wires underneath the dashboard until I was the same shape as the transmission hump. I followed wires from the door plunger on the passenger side over to the driver side, and there it attached to the flasher. It seemed like it should attach to the light underneath the dash on the driver side, but it doesn't. Instead, the only bulb I see is the one hanging down in the picture that I've attached. There's not a socket for it on the back of the gauge cluster, and it's not long enough to go anywhere else... Any thoughts?
  8. I have found some pretty strange and hard to find stuff from a fellow in upstate New York. The website is www.mikesmopar.com. It says 30's thru 70, so you might have a good chance of finding something there.
  9. I have tried the vacuum thing, the two-person method, the tube-in-jar proceedure, and I just finally gave up and took it to another shop. I guess I'll not go back to that particular shop again
  10. I will investigate the pressure bleed. I have gone around once with the ol' tube in a jar of brake fluid, and all I get is air and very very very little fluid. I followed the instructions in the manual as well as just standard brake procedure and I can't seem to get many results. I have gone around 2x now. I can't really say how well the brake work was done in the first place, at least until I get better pedal.. (They will stop the car at present, but after much pumping) I'll post when I try the pressure idea.
  11. I am looking for some advice on bleeding a 1948 New Yorker's brakes. I recently had the brakes replaced; i.e. shoes, cylinders, lines, etc. The brake shop was not as qualified as I once gave them credit for; it took them 10 weeks to do all of the work... And, even at the end of that time I still took the car home undone because they didn't know how to bleed the brakes and I tried to explain it to them, and showed them the way I understood it, and they said that I f***ed it up. Very charming. So, it sits at home with brand new parts and just air in the lines. I have tried various things, but I can't seem to get the air out. Anyone have any tips?
  12. I had a similar problem in a 1948 New Yorker, with presumably the same transmission. I thought it was the linkage also, but it seemed fine, with new pins holding it together and the springs still had.. spring. So, time passed, and I was driving it one day, and made a shift into low and it stuck there. I had to drive home across town at around 15-20mph until I could free the gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, which was why I thought it was a simple misadjustment somewhere, but it turned out the stop rings in the synchronizer had worn out.
  13. I need to figure out an easy, somewhat cost-efficient method to bring a 1915 Model T from southern California to southern West Virginia. I have looked into pro movers, and they are expensive, and I wonder if there's not a better method. Anyone had this experience that would care to share their insight?
  14. (Still posting for a friend) I need to know how to remove the vent window from the window frame. The shop manual isn't clear about how this is done. (It's a 1950 Stude Champion) Also, if anyone would be kind enough to post a picture of the weatherstripping around their vent windows, I would be immensely appreciative. The weatherstripping for this car appears to either be too large, or simply on the wrong side of the car.