bhclark

I just picked up a '40 Special 4dr sedan. Engine runs strong and tranny seems good. Brakes are locked up so that's the first order of business. Body is good, but needs new running boards and both bumpers. Also needs all new glass and rubber, plus interior. If there are any parts out there available, please let me know what you've got. Is anyone aware of a website devoted to '40 buicks?

This page keeps coming up as invalid for me. Is it still active?

Where are you located? Are these all suicide 4 doors? Model 41? What's condition of engines/tranny/brakes. Anything drivable?

Thanks for the Article.....That clears things up for me tremendously! Thanks Ted for the offer. I will not be in Milford tonight, but I will definitely be in Sharonville on Sunday. I got confirmation from the chamber that they are going to hold it this Sunday rain or shine.

Thanks Adam. My original question was about wheels for a '65 full size. But I've enojoyed the lesson in Muscle Car Wheels! Does anyone know specifically how to identify the '65 road/rally wheels? Thanks!

That seat looks PERFECT from here. Great Job. Wish I could find a kit for my '65 Wildcat Split Bench or my '59 Invicta(this one's real expensive to have custom made due to the combination of vinyl, cloth and the pattern required.)

Can anyone explain the difference between the mid '60s road wheels(for, say a '65 wildcat) and the road wheels from '71-'72? The bolt pattern and center hole appear the same, but I am told the "offset" is different? What does that mean and will the 71-72 wheels fit the '65? Thanks!

Thanks to all who responded! This sounds like an adventure! My wife should LOVE this mess I'm about to create!

I'm wondering if they're already partially broken, as the connecror feels very loose. (do you have a part number for that tab, as I can't find it in my parts list.) I'm currently trying to source all potential parts before deciding to tackle this myself. Any advice on how to minimize the mess created by the transmission fluid? I've never dropped a pan before. As long as all I touch is the filter and connector, I can't do any damage, right? Thanks!

Hoping you can help. My emergency brake sticks. It works great on the way down, but when I release it, it doesn't come up all the way. SOmetimes the light stays on, but I think the rear brakes might be draggin even when the light is off. (is that possible?) The rear brakes were worn down to the metal before I had them replaced. What do I need to do in order to get better action on the emergency brake cable? Thanks!

HELP! I've got a leaky transmission. (pretty sure it's an ST400-'65 Wildcat) I think I've narrowed it down to 2 things 1. Duh, the main gasket 2. the "connector" (this is what it is labeled on the tranny diagram, but I can find no other reference to it.) This is a small item that is hooked up behind the linkage and in front of the speedo gear. It has electrical wires running from it. So, I have a few questions. 1. What the heck is the "connector" and what does it do? 2. How do you get it out? It twists about 45 degrees in each direction but doesn't seem to want to come out. I'm assuming it's the o-ring that needs replaced? 3. If I pull the pan to replace the gasket, should I replace the strainer and strainer o-ring or can these be cleaned? Picture attached. (I just wiped this down half an hour ago) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Verdict. 2 Broken pistons, stuck in the rings on those rear 2 cylinders. Complete rebuild is going on right now.

Still looking for a 4bbl carb and intake for a '60 364 nailhead. Thanks!

Update. I did pick up the coil springs from Eaton. While the don't appear identical Physically, they did fit perfect and provide the correct, and even ride height. Rear shocks were picked up from NAPA and I'm still searching for fronts. (still have to change the front springs)

I'd agree with most of what you said about CARS.....they have a right to charge more.....but if I can get the same part somewhere else, I'd like to do it. But if I pay their higher price, I would like to be SURE that I'm getting an OEM spec. Rock auto lists the same thing I've found everywhere else for shocks...only the rears. They don't even have a coil spring listed. I have heard elsewhere that Moog Springs(from ESPO, the cheaper ones) might be a consolidation part, not the OEM spec.....I guess that explains the $100 per pair price difference. I've examined my shocks and it looks like the fronts are really new. bolts are clean and the shaft of the shock is really shiny. I may be able to reuse those, and if not, they don't look too dificult to swap out. The rear shocks have taken a beating due to the extreme lack of tension in the rear springs(they currently have 1 pair of spreaders and a 2x4 giving them the correct height!) I can't decide if I want to take a chance on the cheaper springs from ESPO, at around $65 a pair, or pay the extra $160-$200 for a set from Eaton or CARS. (eaton is $135 a pair, CARS is $165) By the way....what is a WATTS line? Thanks!

Has anyone tried fenderskirts from http://fenderskirts.us/ ? Seems like a good price for the pair?

I've got a '65 401 with a little blow-by happening....if you'd like to pop the valve covers off to take a peek. Maybe 2 or 3 weeks later you'll return it fully rebuilt? (I'll give you my credit card!!!)

Hey, I'm shopping for new front and rear coil springs and shocks for my '59 Invicta. Local parts places have front coil springs and rear shocks(intereting combo?), but can't get me a complete set. I've got prices for the springs ranging from $65 a pair from ESPO up to $175 a pair from CARS! What's the difference? How do I know I'm getting the right springs? I need to get it right the first time, cause I'm paying a shop to put them in. Does anyone have GM specs for these/ Also looking to get shocks...preferable upgrade to Gas charged instead of the tube-type. Does anyone have info on these? Again, Cars looks like they want about a 300% markup over Monroe shocks...but I dont have a spec for the front shocks from anyone? Am I stuck overpaying for these components? Thanks!

Looking for a 4 bl intake(and carb) for what I believe is a 60' 364. I say that I believe that is what it's for because after extensive investigation, I still don't know for sure what's under the hood of my '59 Invicta! Here's the story, Engine number is 4G40 I2732 (this led me to believe '62 401 from the G, but the I could refer to a '62 v-8 215...which letter code is correct?) head casting # is 1190415 (seems to refer to a '57-60 364 or a 62-66 364/401/425, depending on who's database I look at) carb is a 2bbl Carter # 2980S (also refers to a '60 lesabre 364) engine production code is 3689365 (I know this is of almost no use) intake manifold for 2bbl is 1173878 (not listed in my cross ref guide) I cannot locate the block casting number--dont know where to look and it appears someone painted OVER a bunch of grease and dirt!) Mounting bolts for intake measure approx 8 3/4" across and 15" back (I read somewhere that these were measurements for a 364, but they seem identical to the measurements in my #'s matching '65 wildcat 401.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm assuming you are using a hydraulic floor jack and not some type of bumper jack. I just put the jack under the rear end "pumpkin" and raise the rear until I can get the jack stands under the rear axles out near the tires (my stands have a flat top with concave center)or under the frame. For the front I place the jack under the front X-member and jack the whole front up at once. Depending on what I am doing I place the stands either under the frame or A arms. I also put a piece of 2X4 wood between jack and car so as not to mar the car or dent the bottom of the X-member. I would not reccomend using stands on anything other than a VERY firm and level surface. I think grass or dirt could be dangerous under some conditions. Also after the car is on the stands I give it a very vigorous test shake. I'd rather it fall then than later but have never had it even wiggle....Bob. </div></div> By "Pumpkin", do you mean the differential? I haven't been sure whether that could support the weight of the car...even if it was just for a short period of time to get it up on the jacks....I would hate to dent it.....

Thanks again. I did use the screw in style pressure gauge. Had a helper cranking so I could watch the pressure. Tested both those back 2 twice, then again with a bit of oil in there. (no significant difference I suppose due to the engine already being warm) I don't have A/C, so they aren't that hard to reach. The pressure didn't drop in either of those 2 low reading cylinders...it held until I released it. I had 2 guys here today pumping concrete under my front porch to jack it back up level so I was unable to get anything done today. I will update when I get a chance to do the cold test. Thanks!

I don't think I need that piece of paper after all. Thanks............

Not that I don't have more important things to worry about. My car has received a thorough paint job and new carpet about 17 years ago and searches for the build sheet in the seats and fender wells have proven fruitless. I want to drop the gas tank and look above that. (it was a Flint car) questions: -What precautions do I need to take to ensure I don't damage the tank -What kind of seal is used on the filler neck. (I don't see any way to drop it and keep the filler neck from being moved.) Is this is tricky spot to avoid leaks? Thanks!

Did the compression test today. Forgot to do a dry run...I just followed the instructions I printed off the web and did it with a warm engine. d side, f-b P side, f-b 1 165 1 180 2 165 2 175 3 170 3 170 4 98 4 62 Obviously, the back rear cylinder on both sides have issues. I did put a can of Bars Stop Smoke in it and that has reduced the smoking. I used a can of Seafoam through the carb and it seems to idle better and have very little soot coming out the tailpipe. (I am trying to order a rebuild kit, but my carb does not have a number on the tag, so it could be 1 of 2 different kits) There is something that could be a chuff, chuff coming from the tailpipe, especially if I hold a rag up close to it (boy that's HOT) The plugs were all black, but not worn. The Threads on a few seemed oily, but there was no oil on the end. (one of the plugs was not even tight....this plug was the blackest, but no oil and on a good cylinder) I'll get the carb instructions out of my manual tomorrow and work on adjusting that....any quick tips would be appreciated. It's a Carter 4 bbl. The vapor is definetely coming directly out of the breather, so I don't think it's a cracked head. I only idled the engine for maybe 5-10 minutes before the degreasing. I put in 10W30 per the manual when I changed the oil, should I change it again and put in something thicker? Suggestions? I know I've got a lot of questions and issues, but talk about a Green Wrench. I'm it! (My wife would say Grinch, but that's a different story) I bought a timing light, but gave up on trying to figure out how to hand crank the engine and how to tell if it was at Top Dead Center. (It looks a lot different than the 38 packard I say on DIY last weekend.....) Continued help and diagnosis appreciated! Thanks!

What do you mean by "unloads the choke"?