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bhclark

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Everything posted by bhclark

  1. Beautiful car Derek. The '61 (or 62 skylark) is definitely on my short list for my next purchase. I just love those front fenders! Best ever on a Buick, IMHO.
  2. Anyone out there got a spare dashpot bracket for a 401 engine intake manifold? I just did a swap out from a 2 bbl to a 4 bbl setup on my '59 and the bracket is a different shape. I think it might be the same bracket up to and possibly past '65 on all of the 401 engines. Please email 59buick@gmail.com if you can help! Thanks!
  3. I believe the process Home Depot uses on their concrete floors is a sanding/polishing procedure called Retroplating. They basically sand and polish the concrete with a series of higher and higher grits. It's a very dusty and messy procedure, but gives a nice polished look and is permanent. It might look even better if you were to use a color enhancer in the concrete when poured, as the retroplating brings out the slight differences in the color of the original concrete.
  4. Nice Car Ted! Wish I would have found this one...you seem to be blessed with finding all the great cars!
  5. You are a workaholic Adam! An inspiration to us all. Keep the photos coming.
  6. Hey Ted, Just wondering, what local shop you had do the work? Can't wait until spring so I can come check out the garage again!
  7. What a shame. Wish I had seen this before it sold. I miss my '40...
  8. The cost is only $3.50 for a detailed report, but it does not appear to work very well on older cars. I tried to search on my '65 Wildcat and the only title that came back was mine... It could vary by state.
  9. yes, mostly just from those corners. In the dark, I can shine a flashlight from above and see the light shining through. It looks like the side pilllar rubber should stick up higher than it does in order to solve the problem.....are you saying I should make the top seal stick farther down by "shimming" it from behind? Thanks Adam! Any help would be appreciated! Also, Just bought a '69 Electra 225 4 dr hardtop and need the rubber that mounts between the 2 windows, but haven't been able to find it. Can anyone give me a cross reference so that I can purchase the correct piece? Once I replace this, I think the car will be quieter than my "new" cars! Thanks!
  10. bhclark

    Tires

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: serb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Willie, I bought Broadway Classic tires for my Riv, size is P215/75R15. They also had 225. Google them to find out where you can get them. $80.00 each plus tax, balance, road haz......$411.00. Address from sticker on the tire: TBC Corporation, PO Box 18342, Memphis, TN 38181-0342 Stevo </div></div> I put a set of the Broadway Classics on my '59 Buick last year....and have had no real problem with them other than the white wall seems to brown easily and quickly. I have had the valve stems replaced with metal ones to reduce the "walking" of my hubcaps and had to have 1 reseated after a flat. I'm not sure where they were made, but they had the TBC sticker on them as well. On my Daily Drivers, I have used Multi-Mile, Continental, Kumho, Yokohama, etc....whatever the local tire store(That I trust) recommends for my use. Yes, they do often take a bit more balancing metal to get them right, but they seem to perform very well adn last a long time. My local tire shop can no longer sell "Brand name" tires because they refuse the honor the Manufacturers minimum selling price, instead offering better deals to their customers. The last set of "Brand name" tires I owned were a fantastic set of Dunlops, but I can't remember the tire name. SR60 maybe?
  11. I'd be interested as well. I installed all new seals and now have more leaks than I did before. The water just pours in above the front pillar seals. Brian, I do know that both versions of the front header seal are available in reproduction. I'd gladly purchase the header seal and front pillar seals again if someone can recommend the proper brand. (I bought mine off of an Ebay seller, I think they are Soff Seal, but am not sure)
  12. I seem to have a similar problem. My car shifts fine from first to second, then instead of shifting into drive, it slips into neutral. If I do a hard accelleration, sometimes it won't drop into second either? If I put it in second it drives just fine, going along at around 40MPH without any problem or high revving. I've been just driving it around locally keeping it under 50 on short trips but am dying to drive her FASTER! I thought a complete tranny rebuild or replacement was in order, but if I'm understanding this description, there are other adjustments or parts that could be tried first? also, I have located a supposedly "good" used auto transmission from a low mileage 1988 parts car. Is there any problems switching between the years? My car is a 1990. I'm probably going to have a shop do the swap, so I need to make 100% sure I get it right the first time! any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
  13. Voltage check on the pressure switch was fine. Tapping the pump/motor yielded no results, as did applying 12 volts directly to the pump/motor, so I have ordered a pump/motor from jim finn. I will update once that arrives and is installed!
  14. Not a buick, but I passed on a similar car, a '76 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham that was like new except for a rusty rear bumper and some wear on the driver's arm rest. I could have had it for $1000 but passed due to the 267000 miles even though I know the owner and trusted that it was maintained to factory specs for the last 30 years. Kicking myself now.......it sold Friday.
  15. I rarely see buicks at car shows or cruise ins here in Cincinnati, unless of course, Mr. Nagel shows up to make my car look bad!
  16. Drivers are the '59 Invicta (needs interior work), '65 Wildcat (could use paint and minor rust repair). Just sold the '66 Galaxie that needed nothing, was near perfect. Sold the '40 special due to lack of funding and space to work on it. '65 spit is a constant project.....currently needs rear axle replaced, then whatever comes next! '90 Reatta only has 1st and 2nd gear and the anti-lock and power brakes don't work, but it drives great in 2nd gear! Always looking for more, even though I don't have any room to store them!
  17. Wow. I feel like I walked into a bad dream here. Between my Reatta (with all it's problems), my '59 (whose Dynaflow runs perfect!) and the Triumph (where do I begin), I seem to have run the gamut of quality issues listed in this post!
  18. I much prefer the regular Ebay site to the Ebay motors site. The Motors site seems outdated and has nowhere near the options or ease of use of the main site, so I can't wait to check it out!
  19. $30 is good for me. The trinkets and such included with the registration packet are usually worth that to me. Lamar, I'll meet you at the wine tent!
  20. Yes, I've got voltage on the connector in the bottom right of the photo. I will check the voltage at the pressure switch tomorrow. I'm actually surprised at the stopping power as it is compared to the scary stuff mentioned on reatta.net. it's just a bit harder to stop than my old '66 Galaxie with manual brakes was, but then again, I only have 2 gears, so I can only go so fast!!!! (brakes first, tranny second!) I'm not optimistic on the tranny, as it appears that it has been serviced or examined at some point, as the gasket appears to be silicone...... I'll report back on the results of the second voltage check and the hammer test tomorrow.
  21. ABS trouble codes are 27 (Rear Outlet Vavle), 33 (RR WSS) and 74 (Rear outlet Valve). Am I correct the the rusty piece in the attached picture (bottom)is the pump and motor assembly.....does this seem like my mostly likely culprit? (of course, an $800 part, $432 wholesale) Also, the part that the accumulator plugs into is very rusty...this does not have a number assigned to it on the diagram? Does this need to be replaced as well? Any advice before I have to spend $500 guessing it's the pump would be appreciated! (i.e. how do I test it?) Thanks! <span style="font-weight: bold">UPDATE:</span> I do have 14.65 volts at the pump connector.
  22. After reading through the test (I printed off 40 pages of stuff the other day, but somehow missed this test?), I don't believe the pump is running at all which renders all results invalid. Is there a way to test the pump without replacing it? (i.e. can I hook up 12 volts directly to the pump, and if so, where so I don't cause any unnecessary additional damage?) Also, any advice on the best place to find a good price on a new or rebuilt pump if that's what I need? (I would take a used one as well.....) I'm not worried about the ABS, just getting power brakes back is my goal at this point. i apologize, I'm used to working on the systems of the 50s and 60s, so all this technology is new to me!
  23. Update. I replaced 1 non-working relay, but no apparent change in brakes.
  24. I just picked up a 1990 Reatta. It has several mechanical problems. 1. No third gear. As it shifts out of second, it slips into neutral. Drives fine if left in 2nd gear. 2. Very soft brake pedal, very hard to stop. Both ABS and red Brake lights are on. Car appears to have new brake lines, new pads and a new MC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! -Am I looking at a complete tranny rebuild or is there possibly a cheaper fix? -What should I look at first on the Brakes and how much should I expect to pay for someone to locate and fix the problem? Thanks!
  25. Beautiful Car Jerry. Love the buckets/console. If it were a '61 and 10 grand cheaper, I'd be all over it!
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