lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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The 72, I suspect, would be the same as the 75, which used leather for the interior but vinyl for the convertible tops.
The leather was used on the entry level cars and most open cars, and cloth was used for the upmarket cars.
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From the factory the pedals were the same colour as the engine and gearbox.
Of all the parts cars I've had they were all green.
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15 minutes ago, Vintageben said:
Yep got the roadster as well, probably need a bigger shed now 🙄🤣
I think I'm going to have to plan a visit.
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3 hours ago, Vintageben said:
Yeah so I got a fair heap of timber work, some of it is labeled and some of it not. It’s a nice big jigsaw puzzle and I’m still sorting through the boxes of parts, so I may come across what I need yet. Mark had sooo much stuff with this and was good enough to organise delivery from Melbourne to Northern NSW! Reading through the literature that came with the car and talking to Mark, this coupe sounds like it’s well traveled even if not under it’s own steam. It’s certainly given me a big boost along to getting a 75 on the road as the running gear is pretty much restored.Â
Cheers BenI know the fun we had clearing it all out of my shed. But considering I had the remains of 4 cars, I'm sure there are enough bits for more than one restoration. Did you buy his roadster as well?
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I always wondered of the progress of my old 75 coupe. So I'm assuming that none of the timber work came with the coupe?
The coupe originated from Peter Taylor in Beechworth. When I sold it to Mark, Peter still had all the original timber. I was under the impression that Mark had already picked it up.
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On 10/23/2023 at 8:11 AM, BlueDevil said:
Thanks carb king. I have a DB-22. What is the difference?
DB-22 is 1 1/4"
DB-20 is 1"
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They do appear to be correctly orientated.
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The 75 doesn't have an eccentric alignment bolt at the bottom. The brake shoes are in two pieces and the adjustment is only made by adjusting the four alignment bolts.
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On 9/22/2023 at 5:20 AM, tcslr said:
What mpg do folks get? I get 12-14. I drive in areas with hills though.
I get 17mph whether its on hills or flat ground, it doesn't seem to matter.
As an aside, on a trip to Adelaide a few years ago in convoy (1928 Dodge Tourer, 1929 Chrysler 75 Sedan, 1934 Chrysler drop head coupe, 1936 Chrysler sedan and a 1936 Chrysler coupe) all 5 cars used almost identical amounts of fuel. And of course the US gallon is smaller than the imperial gallon.
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I cruise my 75 sedan at 50mph (80kph) all day. Above 50 the car gets a little bit thirsty due to the aerodynamics of a brick.
My car's been on the road now (second time around) for nearly 40 years and is happy at 50mph.
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Yes. Provided the pistons aren't stuck. But you can't install them that way.
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Gas tank is black as Keiser said. Same colour as the chassis rails.
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From my experience, if it's valve train related you should get some movement of the crank in either direction.
My 2 instances: I cooked number 5 and it seized in the bore. No movement of crank no matter what force I put on it.
Second instance, one of the crank main bearings seized on the crank shaft. I could still get a small amount of movement on the crank.
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Sorry didn't read the wire wheel part for the 75.
I have two different caps for the 75. The aluminium caps that I have all have two red rings.
The stainless steel caps are all unpainted. Now that could be because the paint has worn off I'm not sure.
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I don't know about the 72.
The 75 had no colours on the wood wheel hub cap. I have seen many cars with 'decorated' caps in both red and black, but to my knowledge they were originally unpainted.
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Lorimer S47Â S47A
Bremi DR1317
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Hole appears to be in the wrong place for the sidemount.
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Front  1 3/8"
Rear  1 1/4"
I think the master cylinder was  1 1/4" as well.
Now having said that, the parts manual only lists one part number for pistons and cups (being 1 1/4").
Some of the cars I have dismantled have had 1 1/4" front and rear.
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The bellows are often removed because they were unreliable.
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The hole in the inner part of the wheel well is large for clearance. There isn't a grommet.
The idea is the lock bar threads thru the outer block, over the top of the rim of the wheel. The lock fits into the block on the outer part of the guard. The other end of the bar fits thru the large hole. This stops the spare from being stolen.
The bent metal fork then slides over the top and pushes down on the lock bar to stop the spare moving as well as stop the lock bar from rattling. This allows for different tyre sizes.
The two clamps at the top of the brace then hold the top of the rim stable.
You will notice (in Narve N photo) that the brace has a bar that goes back thru the body to hold it nice and firm. This brace is only on roadsters and tourers. The enclosed cars didn't have it.
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The parts shown in the photos of the 1930 Desoto are very similar to the 75. Mine had a dome nut in lieu of the wingnut.
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3 hours ago, Narve N said:
From the looks of the stuff we have, it appears that painted is the OEM finish (like the latter car displayed) and not chrome, for the wheel securing hardware on a Series75?
Correct.
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Model 75 radiator core
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Not sure that is correct. Honeycomb radiators started to be phased in 1928 with the lower cost flat radiators. Radiators became more hidden behind grills etc and the need for a feature radiator reduced. Of the 7 cars I have owned only one was honeycomb.