tbirdman

Don't need to do anything but hand wax it. It's got more shine from the clearcoat than a 34 Rolls ever had. Mequiars NXT seemed to work well for me however now I have switched to Satin Creme . probably don't need to wax more than once a year. I swear by Adams detail spray. I used Mequiar but found I was getting a lot of hazing. The detailing will help remove any bugs that you may pick up. Also the cheap micro fiber towels from costco seem to work well.

Still looking for 19" split ring or lock ring for 32 Packard.

What about Pontiac Chieftain, Indian Motorcycle, MG Midget. Jeep Cherokee, Hummer, Navajo, Suburu Brat, Swinger, New Yorker, Samuri, beaver, Black crow,Tsunami?

The conversion kits are available here. I have one in my 32. Regional Projects

I think I still have a 32 steering wheel:-)

Well my 32 limped through the summer as I refused to give up the limited driving season we have here in Oregon. I'm rebuilding the engine and the transmission. Looking forward to a Packard engine and transmission that should run like new. I'm am surprised how well it ran before since the final verdict is that the engine was crap.

$30K would be a good deal, but this car might be closer to $50K depending on the condition. Of course who knows if two guys at the auction can drive the price up.

Looks like some weird stuff going on in the engine compartment. It's obvious they did the exterior and interior of the car but left the engine compartment to chance. I would think it would go for around $30K.

That multicolor engine compartment scares me. At least paint the entire engine Packard green. Never saw those colors before.

$10K for a #1 car.

2450 at 55 seems a very reasonable rpm. When I drive it between 50-55 it doesn't seem to be maxed out or straining, but comfortable at that speed with plently more speed able to be gotten from the engine. The interesting thing I saw about that table posted (and where I got my original info from by the way) is at 50 the difference between 6.5X19 and 7X19 tires is 100 rpm. The difference between the gear ratios is about 150 rpm. So for my comparison with Owen who is comfortable at 50 but has a a higher gear ratio(4.69 vs 4.41) and smaller tires (17 vs 19), then my 32 at 50 with rpms at least 250 rpm less (not taken into the full account of 2" taller tires), I should be golden.

The registration fee brings people and their cars to these shows. You don't have to stay all day. In fact I agree most of them are too long. I usually arrive late and stay just to see how the voting/judging turned out. If you don't want to pay then arrive late enough so you may not have to pay a fee. That has happened to me. A car show refused my money because I was there 30 minutes after their judges started to judge. However I had no problem parking in the show field (parking lot). So if you don't like to pay the fee, come late with your antique, you may not have to pay a fee and you will won't be there all day long. Now you mention you don't like the trouble of bring your car to a show, so I can't help you there. It would be great if all shows were free and some are, but the $10 won't kill me. The $20 starts getting a little steep unless it's for a charity which a lot of these shows are for. I usually pick shows to towns or places I haven't been before and then I enjoy the drive to and from.

My old car purchase have gone in this order 64 T-Bird 55 Pickup 32 Packard 1912 Cadillac Not many years left to go if I keep up the buying progression. I still have the Packard and the Cadillac so I guess my vote is for brass and early 30s cars. I love driving either one to a local show as I will be the only one there with a car like these. The Cadillac gets the most attention driving down the road. How many youngsters understand what war we are talking about when referring to prewar cars.

So I guess my real question is where is the upper limit of RPMs you would want to limit a early 30s babbitted rod Packard?

My first new car was a 78 Monte Carlo. haven't bought Chevy since so that tell you a little about my experience. Knocking noise on the front end the dealer couldn't fix, seat upholstery that they tried to fix, but it kept ripping through and that imitation plastic chrome on the bumpers that after about 5 years fell off evey car.

My 32 384.5CI is not straining as it is only doing 2200 RPM at 50. I agree OD would reduce engine RPMs, but I believe the car is quite capable of running at 50-55 without needing a rebuild because of the babbitts letting go. It will be a ring and valve job the next time the engine is serviced (at least that's what I'm planning). And at 2K mile or so per year, I got quite a bit of runway before I will need to do that.

The reason I'm asking because i got a few club members who say I should get OD while I have a fresh engine. My retort is if I'm happy driving 50-55 that shouldn't hurt the engine. OD is only a neccessity if you want to start doing 60-70 . Who's smoking the crack?

Just happen to browse Napa online and they are selling the Eichlin VR 755 again. Pick up a few for insurance.

I have been following the discussions on the board regarding babbitted rod bearings vs. inserts. I am going ahead and rebabbitting my rods for my engine rebuild. I know for Owen's 34 closed car, he drives around 50-55 and has plenty of miles on his babbitted rods. That car has a 4.69 rear end ratio. My 32 being open probably has a 4.41 rear end. Also I have 19" tires on my car vs 17" on Owen's which reduces the RPMs for given road speed. I found some RPM data for a Packard with a 4.41 rear end and 19 inch times. 2219 RPM at 50 MPH 2441 RPM at 55 MPH The RPM data came from a Packard service letter for the 8th series cars which used 7X19 tires and a 4 speed transmission. These RPM seem reasonable to me if I keep the car speed between 50 and 55. I do not have a desire to drive faster than 55. One fact regarding speed is people drive slower in Oregon. So without resorting to high speed gears which for the ones that are available would only reduce the RPMS by 10% or an overdrive (one day I may get) which is $$$, does it seem reasonable that I can drive max 55 MPH and with these RPMs not run into bearing issues.

I did get out my owners manual which I had squirrelled away to protect it. It does recommend 20 A. I may bump it up to 25A as I added a fuel pump and Pilot Ray lights lights. Funny thing about the fuse box. When I replaced the wiring harness a couple years back, I ohmed everything out because I wanted to make sure I had no shorts. I kept measuring a low resistance across the fuse block. After about a half hour and going back to the wiring diagram, I discovered the resistor that is across the fuse to limit the current but allow the lights to function if the fuse blows.

I spoke with George from Olcar bearings. He knows his stuff. I gave him the part number for a bearing I had acquired off of ebay and he knew right away it was correct. He's going to supply the front bearing. He asked me to have the transmission shop call him as both bearings need snap rings to enable the synchros to work properly. We going to make a new cluster shaft and the detents.

No problem. I was so excited when I accidently stumbled across this vendor at Hersey a couple years back and then I noticed he had a web site.

Owen, Thanks. I was thinking around 20A. Amazing that here's a replacable item, and no where in the Packard literature does it list what fuse size. That's unless I need to add some books to my collection.

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What size (amperage) fuse should be used on the fuse block for a 32 903?