fred
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Posts posted by fred
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I Would suggest getting the applicable service manual, this will have a section for this trans, and will explain reasons and test procedures for the down shift problem when you come to a stop in high range.....
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Cool trinket to have, wish I had 1 with a 48 Chrysler on it......
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Very beautiful car, wish mine were as nice. I have a 47 Chrysler Royal Coupe, with a 228 engine and 3 spd trans and regular clutch froma 1951 Canadian Dodge. I do have a 251 engine, fluid drive and M5 trans too, not sure I will ever install those back, as I enjoy the current set-up.
I find a regular 3 speed trans, no fluid drive coupler and 3.73 diff, gives decent off the line performance, but you have to shift, and none of the around town benefits of a fluid drive.
Chrysler built many Dodge, Desotos, and even Chrysler Royals with a regular 3spd trans and fluid drive coupler, those you could drive like a standard, or keep trans in 2nd or 3rd, and drive without clutch, like an automatic nothing like the M5 trans, no electronics, or special carb. So you were right in assuming some of the fluid drive set-ups could be driven like a standard trans.
Some pics of my beast, need to have chrome all replated, well maybe someday... My car was extremely rough, I did the entire fix-up myself......Fred
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What it looks like before I start
Great Car, and in good shape. The Hubcaps are like mine, those are 49 Chrysler caps, but heck I like em too. The 46-48 Caps were the Dog dish type, you could get trim rings for them too, good ones are hard to find.
Here is my car...
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You mean this extra punched hole, for ?????
I kinda wondered what it was for too, was there a switch for the power top for a convertable in there??
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PS make sure your engine idle is around 450-500rpm, as is required to upshift. Check all the electrical connections to make sure they are not corroded and weak. Do you hear anything, when you let off the gas pedal, or is it silent and not upshifting?.....Good Luck
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Check out, Yahoos PWHM 46-48 Chrysler Auto Group, and P15-D24 Homepage .
You need to get a manual, and know what you need for this M6 trans, before you start spending time and money.
There are some Gentleman on both of the mentioned forums, who can answer questions and guide you with this task...
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Heck, this ain't high pressure, maybe 8 psi.
Go to any hydraulics place, and have em make up a new hose with the connectors, take the old one to show them what you need.
I ahve made these myself, with fuel line fittings and small hose clamps.
Here is the 1 I got made for $20 in Canada, if I would have paind 10 more bucks, it would have had better end fittings, but thse were good enough, and overkill for these applications.
Have a look at this Movie_0003.wmv - YouTube
new to the site...your 55 looks like it is coming along great.i have a 55 of my own and ran into a little snag. the fuel hose near the fuel pump (the roughly 6" linkage running into the fuel pump) broke at the coupling so i need to replace it. The only problem is most places i have looked dont have the high pressure hose as the pump is mechanical which im sure you all know already. i've been searching online for the correct part but am finding up to 54 not 55. does anyone happen to have the part number for the specific piece of hose i'm referring to so i can hone my search online? if needed i can post a pic of the piece it will be replacing.
thanks for any help,
fox.
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Go to P15-D24 Homepage on either the car forum board or the Pilothouse Truck board.
You can join, then post or go to parts wanted, should be someone in the Witchita area who can help.
If you have done this already please disregrd. The mentioned web forum is dedicated to the flath ead 6 engine, and has a lot of memebers and a lot of trafic on it.......Good Luck
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If it were a Canadian 37 Plym or Dodge, which shared the same body, in Canada, it would have come witha 25 inch engine.
So yours beinga ply, this could be doable, exactly whats needed, will be your research to find out.
The idea of going toa say late 50s, 230 23.5 inch engine could be great, as those came with cloes toa 130 hp stock, witha higher compression ratio to boot. You would notice some more pep with that.....
PS go non P15-D24, and post some questions, lots of traffic on there, with a lot of knowledgable Guys...
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joe, you are a bit far from me, but i'll keep that in mind.
fred, i've been searching that website for hours. all i see is reference that people have done it and that a "quick search" should pull up any info needed. i haven't found a thing relating to the 23 to 25 swap. having to do that stupid "captcha" every time i want to do a search is giving me a headache.
Contact Don Coatney, on P15-D24 he has done this very swap, He can give you some info with substance on this topic...........Fred
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Check out this website P15-D24 Homepage , others have done this very swap, with some modifications it can be done.
Interestingly, in Canada, all Mopars cars and trucks had 25 inch flathead 6s, they did not market or make the 23.5 inch 201,218 or 230s, they had 218,228,237,251,265, all with a 25 inch block.
You will have to move your front motor mounts forward, and somehow move the rad ahead, or eliminate the fan, and go with an electric pusher fan, which you can buy in the 6 volt type if you need.
The 251 will give your Plymouth some extra boost, having probably an extra 30-40 HP, that you will notice.....
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You can look at this a few ways.
Swap out the diff, to a more modern Mopar 81/2, with a gear ratio of 3.23 to 3.55, that is what I have in my 1955 Fargo pickup, with a 4speed, whether its 3 or 4 speed, the final drive ratio is 1-1.
You could convert to Borg and Warner T5 trans, this would drop your RPM in 5th gear, and still aloow you the off the line trhust with your stock diff.
Go to P15_D24 and do a search, and check ut the PilotHouse truck forum board, good luck......
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You Tube video of my truck running
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UPDATE: Have been working on the old 55 Dodge/Fargo truck, have the 251 engine running pretty good, and did find a parts truck in Noevember.
I now have decent doors, and a box, although the box is froma 53 it fits, and I do have the 55 rectangular fenders for Her.
I have recently sripped the fron clip, and shot on 3 coats of "poor mans" epoxy primer, blasted and painted the grill white.
I have actually driven this truck about 4 times, just a fw miles each time, needs fron end work, brakes need bleeding/adjsuting, but it ran and road not bad.
Here are some pics I took today....
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Hi all, does anyone know what may interchange with 1955 Dodge pick up trucks.
I need a bunch of items, window channels and regulators, outside door latch handles, and could use another drivers door too.
I am just wondering what years are interchangeable parts wise for these trucks.
I have heard that 45-58 interchange many parts, but do not know for sure.
Thanks in advance....Fred
The cab and front clip are going onto a 1955 Fargo 1/2 ton chassis I own, it has good running engine, and drivetrain
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Nice car, parts , can be found, on Ebay, but you can check out plces like NAPA and Rock Auto for many mechanical items.
There is another website you may be interested in, it has a lot of activity, accepts originals, modified and rodded too.
Here is is, P15-D24 Homepage
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Removed my ?, guess nobody knows the answer....
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if you do not like my engine pick, to bad. i have been building engine for 30 yrs. we do lots of old engines, and they cost a lot to do. they are nice but not my choice. it is not a easy job with the efi wiring. ican do it. i was just telling my story as the car goes. you will not read of my car again.
Hey Guy, it's your car, you have the total right to do as you see fit. Thats what freedom in America is all about , right Guys?
Okay some guys figure, these old Chryslers are going to be too slow, not user friendly, and hard to get parts in a pinch, or while trvalling on the road.
These are not neck snapping machines, but cruise comfortably at 60-70 mph, the brakes are decent( lockheed), if in good shape, and adjusted correctly. Chrysler front ends, were ahead of there time, and with a simple shock relocation, handle quite well, infact they handle well without a shock relocate.
Parts like wheel cyls, fuel pumps,water pumps, plugs points, and the such are easy to get at NAPA etc. Even 6 volt is not bad at all, if all is in good shape.
Some of the Guys on the Plym/Dodge sites hop up the 6s, with dual exhaust, 2-3 carb intakes, aluminum finned heads, cam regrinds, disc brake conversions, and these cars move along well especially if an OD trans or T 5 trans is adapted in.
But it is your car, you fix it up your way, I really dig Original on these cars, mine is not quite, and some 46-48 Chrysler owners would no doubt turn there noses up at mine.
I have a 228 long block Canadian flathead mopar 6, dry clutch(no fluid drive coupler), 3 spd trans, and 3.73 Chrysler rear end.
Now I will admit, it would be fun to have the fluid drive attached to this, no clutch use, stay in 2nd or 3rd, around town,drive like an automatic, likethe Dodges, in Canada, many 46-48 Chrysler Royals came witha fluid drive and 3 spd trans, so I am not too far of OEM, but some Guys like to tell me car is not correct.........so be it, good luck with the project
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One minor little difference in the 6 volt systems vs 12 volt systems is the gauge of the wire in the wiring harnesses. The 6 volt system wires are very possibly a larger gauge than those used in 12 volt systems.
Reason I say that is that my machine shop operative, who was around when people started converting vehicles to 12V systems for better starting with transplanted hot rod V-8s, said that you could tell a "converted" vehicle as the larger gauge 6 volt wiring harness carried more "juice" to the light bulbs, which made the car look (as he noted) like it was "lit up like a Christmas tree" compared to the normal vehicle.
Sounds like you need to order up one of the Painless Performance wiring harness kits and re-wire the vehicle for what you're going to do with it. The vintage wiring insulation could well need replacing anyway.
It's one thing to upgrade to a 8V battery for better starting performance, but going to 12V is quite a different situation. If you've got a high compression V-8 in the car (of any brand), it'll need the 12V system to fire the spark plugs like they need to be.
Regards,
NTX5467
Heavier gauge wire is required for 6 volt systems, because of the higher amperage it requires.
The problem with most 6 volt systems, is after years the contacts get dirty, the grounds are poor, something that is far more critical than witha 12 volt system.
The secret witha 6 volt system , wire in good condition, all grounds, in good clean condtion, all contacts in clean shape.
If the starter is in good working order, and the battery, genny or alternator( GM single wire alt converted easily to 6 volt neg or pos), plus battery cables in the 2/0 welding cable size. This is what I use, and have no issue with my 6 volt system.
If you need to convert to 12 volt for some reason, say modern engine, air conditioning, or anything else that sucks the juice, otherwise, if the car is to remain basically stock, then finding what issues there are with the 6 volt system, and correcting them will be far easier, and less hassle.
I know some Chryslers like mine the C38 1947 Chrysler had only 1 stop lamp, because the signal switch is only 3 wire, there were no stock brake lights incorprated with the rear tail lights.
This can be changed with a simple set of relays, wired into the brake and signal circuit to allow the brake light sot work with the signal light and tail lights....
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Then my motors manual is in error as it states crown imperials starting in 1953 have 12 volt systems and the rest were 6 volt.
"The 1953 Crown Imperials came with a 12-volt electrical system and Chrysler's
first fully automatic transmission, called PowerFlite." - wikipedia
Ron
You are correct
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Sounds good! I think I'll have to try that this weekend! I want to keep it original, but the rebuild kits I have found were around $1500. If I can get it to turn over the way it is however, I should be able to get it to run. I've also been thinking about doing a partial rebuild, with just rods, rod bearings, pistons, and rings, and a good hone job on the cylinders.
It tis possible to do a parital rebuild in the car.
Rings, hone cyls, do valves.
I would suggest taking off the water pump, pull water distribution tube behind water pump that goes into the block, and pull side freeze plugs, then flush reaal good and rod out all rusty crud you will find in there.
If the rad is good, meaning it has good flow, take it in to be boiled out, or flush it clean at home.
The cooling systems are good on these cars, as long as they are clean, check and replace t/stat too, if necessary.
Or better yet , pull engine, do everything then reinstall, check this video out of me driving my 47 Chrysler with flathead 6 cylinder , which is a 218 long block Canadian engine. Good luck
here is my car driving on You Tube
Here isa link for another old Mopar Forum, which is very active www.P15-D24.com
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Soke cylinders with some penetrating oil, open valve chambers to check for stuck valves, check this first, you could always pull timing cover, and chain, and/or drop oil pan, pull pistons. You should be dropping the oil pan, and open side covers to clean out and check for sludge...
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These engines can get stuck in the valve department.
The good news is they are relatively easy and economical to rebuild, or you could get another donor engine, either a 251 or a 265.
The fluid drive and M6 trans would require some kind of adaptor plate or serious mod to allow a modern V8 to bolt up.
You would be better off with the modern engine and it's trans, but if it were my car, I would either rebuild or find another flat head 6, they are very good reliable engines, and handle modern traffic quite well. These engines are very peppy, when rebuilt, not neck snapping, but peppy enough...
Fargo Truck Trans ID
in Dodge Trucks
Posted · Edited by fred (see edit history)
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