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edalfa

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Everything posted by edalfa

  1. I've got the radio out of my 40 Special. It is not working and it needs to be rebuilt. I'm leaning towards a rebuild with updated inards to get fm too. Anyone have any recommendations? Ed
  2. You Guys were right-the bezel comes off with the lens. Now I need an 81 bulb! I'll pick that up today. Ed
  3. I've been selected to preview the new Ebay motors site! To quote Archie Bunker "Woop-de-do!" Anyhow-what is the concensus from anyone else? I find it a bit confusing but I prefer full page menus to drop downs. I guess it is supposed to make things seem more dynamic. It weren't broke so.... Ed
  4. I just had my 40 worked on by a guy who has been restoring cars since the mid 50's. We talked about future work on my radiator. He said that he did not think boiling out was sufficient,there will always be some stuff left. He felt that only replacing the core will fix things. FYI. Ed
  5. Wow! You really can learn alot reading the directions! I've been reading the owner's manual from my 40 and it specifies "Anti-Freeze Solutions That <span style="color: #FF0000">Should Not </span>Be Used- Salt, Sugar, Oils, Glucose, Honey, Kerosene. I guess it goes to show how new the idea of antifreeze was. For my question, I am having difficulty in removing my dome lamp lens to access the bulb. The manual says to turn "the lens a few degrees, in a counter-clockwise direction." I am not able to get it to budge. Any hints? Ed
  6. Using toothpaste and a toothbrush sounds like a good idea. I'll give it a try. Ed
  7. My 40 Special is mostly original. I've only replaced the things that were typical maintainence items and those things that were unusable (and unrepairable). The dash plastic that was solid is still on the car. I've only replaced the ashtray on the right and the heat/def/inst trio on the left. The rest, especially the lighter and the ignition surround, are soiled and I want to clean them. Any recommendations? I don't want to treat them like modern pieces only to have them disolve from the cleaning agent. Ed
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> they had no problem refunding my card the cost of the taillight (tough luck on the shipping). </div></div> Any purchase made with a credit card can be disputed and, if warranted, charged back through the issuing bank. It is then up to the vendor to justify their actions. Of course, this would be the last resort if you have not gotten satisfaction. Also, I think it is safe to say this approach severs all ties to that vendor. But, then again, if you get to this point, you don't want to deal with them again anyhow. Ed
  9. Looking at the AACA forums, the Buick forum is far and away the biggest and most active. Why? Are we just that much more passionate? Ed
  10. The Vehicle Identification Numbers are located on the right front forward doorpost on pre-war Mopars.
  11. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's what we wanted. A solid and reliable car that won't puke on us. </div></div> A solid, reliable car huh? You may be interested in the attached article. It certainly shows that there <span style="font-style: italic">are</span> other choices. http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2007/08/09/business/NA-FIN-US-Autos-Dependability.php
  12. My Dad did the same thing with his Model A. I'll have to remember for next year. Thanks.
  13. Try http://www.restorationstuff.com/index.htm They list cork blocks in their catalog.
  14. If you replaced the master cylinder, it needs to be bench bled, i.e. before you mount it to the car. There is no way around this step. Ed
  15. I don't think that accepting advertisment in any way infers endorsement of the vendor. The BCA should not be in the position of filtering advertisers based on the input of a few folks. I used to work in the old car industry (non Buick) and we had a few customers that we refered to as NOS for "Not Often Satisfied". While that undoubtedly doesn't apply to this speciic situation, it would be a lot to ask of the BCA to have to sort out which is which. Ed
  16. Oh, also, when you find one, you'll need the bracket to attach it. It is total different from the Delco piece. Ed
  17. What you have there is a 33-34 Plymouth distributor. Mopar switched to Autolite in 1935. I believe that the correct Autolite number is IGS 4207 A-1 Ed
  18. Your filter may actually be part of the fuel pump. Depending on the manufacturer it may be contained in a metal sediment bowl (as opposed to glass) on the pump. In the mid 50's Mother Mopar went through all sorts of running changes with their pumps. The aftermarket followed along. Many of the later pumps would fit and work but not look the same as the O.E. Ed
  19. Well, I got luck and got the clutch unstuck. I was about to jack it as suggested and I decided to give it a rocking while in gear. It took a few tries but the the thing is free now. Now it's time to replace the battery. It just won't hold a charge! Ed
  20. Sounds reasonable! I'll let you know how it works. Ed
  21. I have my car running well after installing the freshly rebuilt carb. My problem now is that the clutch appears to be stuck to the flywheel. Any suggestions how to free it? I've thought of just rocking back and forth manually while the car is in gear. Will that do anything? Plainly, I'd rather not pull the tranny! Ed
  22. I guess my bigger question is were there cars that did not have a fuel filter at the carb? If so, what went in the carb to accept the fuel line? As far as the filter that I plan before the pump... I intend this car to be a driver and want modern filtering to protect both the carb and the fuel pump. Ed
  23. The carb for my 40 Special is out being rebuilt. When I disassembled it, there was a glass bowl filter in line with the carb. It was definitely not a stock setup since (a) the line from the filter to the carb was copper,(b)it was covered with teflon pipe tape and © it was done without a flared fitting anywhere. What should have followed the end on the fuel line? I'd rather not put back the filter. I prefer the look with out it and plan to place one before the fuel pump. Thanks, Ed
  24. Maybe you don't have to go through that. http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/2007_catalog/hi/12.htm. Diamondback lists your size in blackwall and whitewall. Ed
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