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edalfa

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Everything posted by edalfa

  1. My answers are based on my 40 Special but I suspect they will be the same for the Century. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: allcars</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <span style="font-style: italic">...Do I need to get under the dash to loosen the end piece on the body cowl that the center hood hinge fits into? Or does the hinge just slide out once I have it loose at the front?</span> You need to remove the nut form under the dash. The hinge will then lift up. <span style="font-style: italic">...It looks like I need to detach the underhood cowling above the radiator and then lift it off with the hood still attached to it...correct?</span> No. If you notice, there are two bolts pependicular to the hinge at the rearmost edge of the radiator cowling. You need to remove these. Closer to the front there are two screws that pass through tabs on the hinge (on the driver's side) and attach to the cowling. With all of these removed, you can now lift off the hood. </div></div> Ed
  2. I've reassembled the front clip after the new radiator. Everything works fine but the left directional flashes more quickly than the right one. The other weird thing is that the dash indicator only only lights once for a left turn and then goes out. Any ideas? Ed
  3. My dad always suggested using <span style="font-style: italic">Indian Head Gasket Shellac </span>. I always use it and I have never had an issue with hose leakage. As a bonus. it comes with a built in swab/brush applicator that is just the thing for painting water outlets. The one warning is to shield other parts from dripping as it can make a stain. Ed
  4. It seems that often there is discussion as to which cars should or shouldn't have wide whitewalls. I think I found the leading candidate for vehicles which shouldn't be equipped with WWW. Sunday, was out on my bike and saw a 1968 Mustang coupe-kelly green with a black vinyl top, steel road wheels, an aftermarket rear wing and wide whites. The funny thing is, the body was straight and solid and the engine sounded decent. Apparently some $ was spent on the car but the final result-YUCK! Ed
  5. Any ideas on what had to be done to get the Indy cars run on ethanol? Ed
  6. Why? If they are providing a useful(and used) service they will bear out Dawin's <span style="font-style: italic"> </span> Theory <span style="font-style: italic"> </span>. Otherwise, they will fold(survival of the fittest)...without reference to the economy. Ed
  7. Brian, We had a LaCrosse for a loaner when the dealer had to keep my wife's Lucerne over a weekend for warranty work. It drove nicely. I'm tall and found the console a bit intrusive but not enough to keep me from driving the car. My only gripe was the full width chrome strip across the dashboard. The sun often reflected off of it and into my eyes . My wife had no such problem so it is probably a height related issue. Ed
  8. I need a nose (center grille)moulding for my 40 Special. The one that came on the car is tweaked in a few ways and someone installed sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Ed
  9. I know there has been alot of discussion about the quality of gasoline recently but I heard a new twist on it yesterday. I had to bring my hand mower in for repairs. It ran fine but would cut out for no apparent reason, restart reluctantly and then run fine again. The repair shop asked if the gas was new. He went on to say that water in the new gas begins to separate in a week! I asked if stabilizers made a difference and he said that it does slow down but not halt the process. In my case, I have pretty much ruled out gas as a culprit as the lawn tractor has had no similar problems. I was kind of thinking that it was the electronic kill switch given the abruptness of the shutdown. We shall see. Has anyone else heard anything similar about gas? I had thought that stabilizers are designed to prevent such issues. Is this not the case with current gas? Ed
  10. I guess it all depends what you want to get from a car show and what you go to see. When my dad was alive, he'd make a beeline for the Model A's because that is what he enjoyed. I tended towards the muscle cars. When I go to a show now and someone wants to talk about my 40, I'm happy to talk to them but I really just want to see the other cars. I'm not inclined to make small talk with other people there unless I run into a friend. Usually, I'll make a few passes of the show field and then I will leave. I've done what I came for, that is, see the other cars. Ed
  11. To remove the lock switch/cable assembly from the coil, you must undo the crimped metal where the cable meets the coil. You will find a screw underneath that attaches to the coil. On the other end, I believe there is a set-screw that holds it in place. Ed
  12. These stories were rampant in the 70's. Wouldn't some pictures have shown up if it were true? There were loads of satellites and consider the tenor of the press after Nixon resigned. No-one was looking to cut Ford or even Carter slack on the energy issue. As far as changes in the auto industry, it happens. If it hadn't, we might be driving the current equivalent of the curved dash Olds. The industry will reform and come out with better and more appropriate vehicles. The biggest difference is consumer perception of what they need. Once this has changed, the companies that meet this most closely, will be the most successful. We can talk about crash tests, etc. all day long but once downsizing and increased efficiency become a fact of life(again), what a Ford Excursion could do to a (fill in the blank) will become irrelevant. The fact that the F-series was the best selling vehicle and has been supplanted by Honda et al is more of a comentary on the moribundity of Ford than anything else. Ed
  13. You know what-I never noticed that you had a link built into the old post to bring you to the new location. My mistake. Ed
  14. I noticed a recent topic of an owner of a 55 Buick needing help. The post was moved to the Buick forum. I understand the logic-sort of. What if the person who can answer a question like this does not frequent the Buick Forum? Wouldn't it be better to copy the post to the Buick Forum instead of moving it in it's entirety? Then we'd have a duplicate message in a general forum-just as appropriate a place as the Buick Forum-it just might garner more responses. Ed
  15. The plastic is original. You should be able to see the "DPCD" emblem and the part number along the border at the back of the lens. Glass lenses are aftermarket replacements. Ed
  16. 46-48 anyhow. Don't hold your breath however. They are scarce! Your friend may have to swallow hard and get the old one rebuilt. Ed
  17. In my case, the various bad behaviors were exhibited in the late 70s- early 80s before radial settings were as ingrained as they are now. So I am pretty sure that was not an issue. Ed
  18. Funny how this question brings out the purists. My opinion is buy the radials. I know that when I asked about Coker radials previously it turned into a forum about using blackwall, bias plies. Not what I asked and from what I can tell- not what you asked either. Speaking for myself, I intend to replace my tires with WWW radials because I wish to take advantage of the advantages that radials offer and I like the look of WWW on my 40 Buick. I've owned cars equipped with OE tires and I did not like the nibbling at pavement cracks, etc. They were in tip-top shape and were not lacking in any maintainence. Ed
  19. Sweet car! Dad's 72 Estate Wagon had few options-no cornering,no power windows, no power locks, no tilt- I'm not even sure about power seats (but I think they were there!). My thinking is that a well optioned car didn't carry every option, just those that really contribute to the daily usefulness.Of course, certain dealers would load every possible option onto every car. Ed
  20. I took the fenders, grille and radiator and support together. I used an engine hoist to pull the whole deal up. I plan on replacing the radiator and support first and then lowering the rest around it. Ed
  21. No surprise, I need a new core for the radiator. It's kind of pricey but what can you do?! I'm figuring on backflushing the heating system and the block after seeing the goop that was in the radiator. I haven't looked but is there a drain on the block anywhere? Ed
  22. Well, I've pulled the front sheetmetal off-partially to yank the radiator but also to clean 68 years of accumulated crud from the suspension, frame, etc. I am once again amazed at the solid condition of the car. There is virtually no rust! The lower cowl was just a little dirty! Funny thing, I found an old radiator cap below the grille in the hollow created by the lower sheet metal shroud. Now for my questions-were there originally rubber dust seals at the outer suspension pivot points? I see some mention of them in the shop manual but for series 80-90. Mine, if there ever were any, are long gone. Is there any benefit to tearing down a tight front end to install the seals? I understand what their purpose would have been but will keeping the car well greased be enough to keep things in good repair? Also, are the inner fender wells and radiator shroud finished in the same finish as the body? (In my case, that is black.) Ed
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