huptoy
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Posts posted by huptoy
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1956 Ford T-bird drivers side NOS front fender.
You have described fender you want but not the price range you are wiling to spend
Send me a PM with contact information if interested.
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Tuesday, 8:30 AM
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1956 Ford T-bird drivers side NOS front fender
1956 Ford T-bird drivers side NOS front fender - $4,000.Location is in the north chocolate field at C4V 22-23
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We are bring a 1956 Ford T-bird drivers side NOS steel front fender - $4,000.
I will be in the north chocolate field at C4V 22-23
I also have a set of 1967 Mustang NOS steel right & left quarter panels - $350 each.
They are still in the original brown paper wrappers.
If some one wants them, I can bring them to Hershey
Contact me at 937 287-8466.
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What is the head for a 1940 Ply worth?
I can deliver to Hershey.
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I believe the U2 carb was used by several companies in the 1929, 1930, & 1931.
I know the Hupmobile and Dodge used the U2 on their 6 Cyl cars.
What other companies used the U2?
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The thieves are with us everywhere. Forty years ago we had a camper business. In March we took 4 fold down campers to a RV show at a mall. We opened up the front and folded the flaps back to show the interior. I caught a guy inside one taking the door handles off with a screw driver. I was about 30, didn't handel it well, and someone called the mall security and police. This was in a town of about 40,000 at least 30 miles from a town of any size.
When I show a car now, I normally stay with the car to talk with people. Never thought of the need to deal with thieves.
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I was at Charlotte spring of 2014. I missed the $5.00 water but did see it for $2.50, 3.00,& 4.00 at food vendors. I also saw it for $1,00 being sold by vendors selling used parts. Unlike Hershey, most of the swap meet vendors are on grass or gravel. A small wheel cart is difficult to pull around.
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This cover is for the 6 cyl , Century 6 model.
The crank cover is 6 1/2 inches long & 2 inches wide.
The nob is about 3/8 by 3/8 square with a bolt on the back.
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There is a very good web page they didn't post on.
It covers Ohio, Indiana, & Kentucky events.
I suggest they contact them next year.
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Merle passed away June 17th and Joe is representing his wife in selling the car.
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Are you still looking for a Corvette?
We have a restored 'driver' 1961
Car is north of Cincinnati OH
Send me a PM if interested.
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Photos taken from EBAY from a "completed" 1937 Pontiac ad.
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For the last 12 years we have arrived about noon. You can expect from 20 to 40 percent of the venders to be on site. You should plan to do a lot of walking between vendors. We wonder around knowing we will cover these same isles on Wed through Fri. Many vendors will pack up late Friday and leave early Sat. By Saturday we visit the show cars and the HPOF cars are a required stop. This maybe the year but we have not had "rain" on Wednesday yet. Sorry about the 4 letter word.
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I don't remember ever seeing a 61 or 62 corvette with an automatic transmission.
Did they make them and if so, how many.
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December of 1964 I was hitch hiking from Concordia KS to Omaha and caught a ride in 1964 Chrysler Newport 2 door hardtop 3 speed floor shift, PS & air.
The owner was looking for a road car made a great deal as the 65's had been out for a couple of months. Seems a man in his early 20's ordered it with a $1,000 deposit and lost his job.
June 1965, an instructor at our school ordered a 1965 Chrysler Newport 4 door with a manual shift. I believe it had 3 on the tree with SP, PB, & Air.
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You have some rust on the latch, try wd-40 or another package to clean the rust.
Click on photo to enlarge:
On the left side of the latch, you have a tab lock that will turn about 90 degrees.
The rim is designed to separate vertically.
The right side is designed to lift off the left side.
The left side will slip under the right side allowing the two sides of the rim to overlap.
The diameter of the rim will be about 1 to 1 /2 inch shorter.
Use the tire irons to remove the tire like you would a bicycle tire.
You should find a wide rim strip (boot) inside the tire.
It will go between the tube and the rim to keep the rim from poking a hole in the tube.
This has caused me more than a little bit of frustration getting it all back together.
I have found anything less than 4 hands will defiantly bring out the curse words.
Put the tube inside the tire and then place the boot over the tube inside the tire before putting them on the rim.
At this time you can use the rim tool to bring the rim ends together.
I normally resort to a large hammer and big screw driver to do the fine tuning adjustment of the rim ends.
Keep in mind, this "torture" design was preferred for fixing a flat tire when out on the road.
In the 10's and 20's, most roads were gravel & the tubes would get punctured.
When you had 2 flats and one spare, you fixed the tube.
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It will help if you can post closeup photos of the split in the rim.
The attachment is a set of instructions to use the "Rim Spreader".
Your best bet in finding a dealer is if your local truck tire shop will do it.
Many trucks still use "Split Rims"
The split rim tool is expandable to fit the rim before you use the crank to expand the rim.
The split rims come in different sizes.
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Join the Hupmobile Club.
Thee put out emails with information on the warehouse status as things happen.
They are the best experts on parts availability and information on for Hupmobiles.
Additionally they publish a "Parts Locator" newsletter every 2 months.
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<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Chic Kleptz passed away June 16, 2014.
Additional information is available at the following link
http://www.legacy.com/funeral-homes/ohio/englewood/kindred-funeral-home/fh-5170
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During the 1980's Chic built his experimental Glasair plane, and began to restore antique cars. Chic and Arlene, own the largest private collection of Marmon cars in the world, almost all of them restored and rebuilt by Chic. He began racing in the Great American Race, antique car rally and competed 12 years, always with his family by his side. In 2000 he drove Around The World In 80 Days, an international antique car rally, in a 1929 Marmon he restored especially for this race, coming in third out of over 100 cars on the London to Beijing leg
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Q: What is the Great Race?
A: The Great Race is an antique, vintage, and collector car competitive controlled-speed endurance road rally on public highways. It is not a test of top speed. It is a test of a driver/navigator team’s ability to follow precise course instructions and the car’s (and team’s) ability to endure on a cross-country trip. The course instructions require the competing teams to drive at or below the posted speed limits at all times.
Q: Can you describe How the Great Race works?A: Each day the driver and navigator team receives a set of course instructions that indicate every turn, speed change, stop, and start that the team must make throughout the day (usually 220 to 250 such instructions per day). Along the course route there will be from 4 to 7 checkpoints recording the exact time that the team passes that point. The objective is to arrive at each checkpoint at the correct time, not the fastest. The score for each team is the result of the team’s ability to follow the designated course instructions precisely. Every second off the perfect time (early or late) at each checkpoint is a penalty point. This format is much more mentally demanding than a flat-out cross-country race. Also, GPS or computers are not permitted and odometers are taped over. This is a test of human mental agility and endurance as well as classic car endurance, rather than programming capability. The course avoids timed segments on interstate highways, opting instead for scenic local, county, and state highways whenever possible through some of the prettiest country in the United States.
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Headlight for post 1931 cars but before 1939 or 1940 when sealed beam headlights came into use.
If it works, it has some value.
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Ford called for rear end lubricant the consistency of molasas which is about 600 WT. It is available at many Model A parts stores. The store in Springfield OH carries it.
90 WT is called for on some rear ends and manual transmissions.
I have used 30 WT in the summer and 10 WT in the winter for my engine of my daily driver. 30 WT in very cold weather is a lost cause starting it.
Currently I use 30 WT in my 1931 and don't drive it in cold weather.
Check your oil level regularly, the cars of the 20's & 30's were expected to use oil.
The owners manual on my car states the oil level will be down 1 qt at 500 miles.
It indicates you should not add oil but replace the oil with an oil change.
The attachment is information is from a 1929 National Service Manual.
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I had a 953 6 cyl flat head engine, with mechanical valve lifters, car that would die as I was slowing down at a stop light or on a highway ramp. It would start easily when cold but was very hard to restart after it warmed up. Sometimes it took 30 minutes to restart. The problem didn't happen till it was running at normal temperature. My temporary fix was to use the hand throttle to increase the idle to 1,200 RPM. Eventually it became apparent that it lost so much power it had difficulty on steep hills.
I did a compression check on the engine both cold and hot. Two cylinders had a significant drop in compression when the engine was hot. I had a a shop do a cylinder draw down check and 2 exhaust valves were not closing completely when hot. All the valves were readjusted and the engine stopped dying and the power on hills returned. Apparently, when the engine heated up, the valve stem increased in length causing the problem.
This drove me nuts because I was thinking it was a carburetor or gas flow problem.
I didn't recognize the fix, it was an 85 year old former mechanic who suggested checking the valves.
I don't know if the valves are your problem but you might check them.
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South Bend has the Studebaker museum and worth a stop.
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Pella Iowa a Dutch community.
It is Wiatt Earp's boyhood home
It also has a Bakery shop well worth visiting.
Jaarsma Bakery
727 Franklin St
Pella, IA 50219
Bakery Web Site http://www.jaarsmabakery.com/
Review http://www.yelp.com/biz/jaarsma-bakery-pella
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The Freedom Rock
It is 2 miles south of I-80 at Hwy 25 (Exit 86) about 35 miles west of I-35 at Des Moines
Do a google search on "the freedom Rock Iowa" for information on the paintings.
adjusting brakes
in Technical
Posted · Edited by huptoy (see edit history)
Documentation on adjusting streeldraulic brakes.
Hope this helps
Send me a PM with your email address if you can't open the PDF file
Documentation of Steeldraulic Brakes for the following cars.pdf