huptoy

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Posts posted by huptoy


  1. My 1931 Hupmobile with wood wheels uses a 2 1/2 inch puller.

    I have one you can borrow but I would like to have it back.

    It will screw on without being loose or need to be forced on.

    The extra ones are 2 3/8, 2 5/8, 2 9/16, 2 13/16 inches.

    The 2 9/16, 2 13/16 sizes are on one wheel puller with a double bell and a single bolt that you reverse as needed.

    As a point of interest, you can get one at Hershey in October.

    I am in Dayton, Ohio at (937) 287-8466

    Jack


  2. What is the diameter of the threads on the wheel?

    I have a couple different sized bell shaped wheel pullers that screw over the wood wheel.

    Also, another method to remove a wheel is to:

    If you are removing the driver side rear wheel, jack up the passenger side wheel.

    Use a wheel knocker on the end of the axle or screw the nut out until it is even with the end of the axle.

    Now, hit the end of the axle/nut on the driver's side and the wheel should come loose on the axle.

    Jack


  3. I have the opportunity to purchase a 1918 touring car restored 12 to 18 years ago.

    The leather interior is excellent but the car will need to be stripped and repainted.

    I starts and runs well and the engine has been worked on years ago.

    I also have found a 1935 Deluxe 2dr with the motor and drive train restored. The seats and headliner are great but the carpet has shrunk about 1/4 all around the body. When driven, the steering wheel has play of about 1/5 to 1/4 turn. I assume the steering box needs rebuilt. It has independent front suspension and the shocks seem firm.

    Can anyone provide suggestions what I should be aware of when inspecting the cars?


  4. I have the opportunity to purchase a 1918 touring car restored 12 to 18 years ago.

    The leather interior is excellent but the car will need to be stripped and repainted.

    I starts and runs well and the engin has been worked on years ago.

    Can anyone provide suggestions what I should be aware of when inspecting the car.


  5. I live in SW Ohio with woods 20 feet behind my aux car garage. The mice get in the garage but have not left signs of getting inside my car. First, I catch 6 or 8 using wood 6 traps with peanut butter. Second, I use the mice pellet food that will kill them in a day or two. They take the pellets away but I don't find dead mice in the garage. The first winter, I had an old 10 X 6 foot carpet rolled up on the floor in the back of the garage. Four of the last 5 years, in the spring, I have found pellet food inside the carpet but never inside my car. Additionally, my neighbor has two outdoor cats and they are probably helping out with the mice.


  6. I have a 1931 Hupmobile flathead and selected a mechanic from a local antique restoration shop to adjust the valves. The mfg spec adjustment is 8 thousands when the engine is hot. Knowledgeable people on Hupmobiles said the valve clearance should be set to 12 thousands when set cold. This creates a slight tappet sound when the engine is running. It is advisable to have a slight tappet sound.

    Before the mechanic came to my house, I removed the Carb, Intake/exhaust manifolds, and the valve adjustment covers. I also removed the spark plugs, permitting zero compression for easier turning the engine over using the fan blades. On my car, the valve adjustments are below the manifolds and you can not see the valve adjustment nuts. This is why I removed the manifolds.

    You will need a feeler gauge and the correct size tappet wrenches. Sears sells a set of 4 for about $26.00 or you can grind regular wrenches down to be narrow enough to fit the adjustments nuts.

    Manually turning the engine over till both the lifters are off the lobs for the cylinder you are adjusting worked for me. This is easy if you have two people. My engine has 3 nuts to adjust the valve lifter and lock each valve. The mechanic is about 20 minutes from my house and his bill was 2 hours including travel time.

    After he left, I reinstalled the valve adjustment covers, manifolds, the carb, and drove out of the garage. I am not a great mechanic but now that I have seen it done, I could do it myself the next time. In reality, I will have him do it a gain, I am just a little lazy sometimes.


  7. Memorial Day weekend (Fri, Sat, & Sun) is a good sized swap meet at Springfield, Ohio. Actually it is at the County Fairground just east of town on I-70. They advertise in Hemmings and Cars & Parts for additional information. They have 900 vendors using 2,200 sites both inside and outside. The last two year have had 1,000 cars in the car corral. Both Fri & Sat are large attendance and from 9:30 to noon the cars will be backed up on the interstate waiting to get off. I plan to arrive about 8:30 for ease of entry. I would estimate about 80% of the vendor spaces are people with old parts.


  8. I have a used U2 Carb for $100.00 plus the shipping. I have not disassembled it but it is not froze. However, it will need to be rebuilt. The pot metal "Float Top" is badly cracked and I doubt if it can be repaired. You can purchase a new aluminum one from:

    http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/chrysler.htm

    The Australian cost $125 with an exchange rate of about $94 plus shipping.

    You can also purchase a new assembled U2 for $1,500 Aus or about $1,125 US plus shipping.

    I am about 30 miles north of Cincinnati.

    jdwyer40@aol.com

    post-41405-143137893994_thumb.jpg


  9. I have an axle with a tapered spline.

    The markings on the shaft are.

    1st line ---- V with a circle around it

    2nd line ---- 0150

    3rd line ---- B1 (maybe C1 or 81)

    Dimensions:

    Total length = 32 1/2" long

    Spline = about 1"

    1 3/8" diameter

    5/8 18 thread

    I can post additional photos as requested.

    Jack

    post-41405-143137893116_thumb.jpg


  10. If you get the job in Cincinnati, contact the Southern Ohio Chapter of the AACA to meet club members and tour. I purchased a car in Indiana and had no problems bringing it into OH. There is no mechanical inspection required in Ohio. The state is only concerned the car serial number matches the title or registration number. This for all cars coming into the state.

    jdwyer40@aol.com