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Posts posted by huptoy

  1. Keep in mind, advice given here will find someone who is successful bending this advice. In 1972 my in-laws towed a 4,000 Pound camper with a 4,400 pound 1967 Chrysler with a 383 engine.  Most trips were less than 400 miles around Iowa.  The exception was 2,600 round trip to trip to Brownsville TX.  Towed at 50 mph and replaced the trans in TX.


    Today, I use a Silverado 1500 to pull a 2,000 pound open trailer & 3,000 pound car.  Works ok on flat areas but had a strain going across West Virgina last year.  


    You will need a frame hitch & an equalizer hitch on a 64 year old car with a soft suspension.  Stay out of hills & you will be slowest vehicle on the road.  

    Truly vintage has very good advise

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  2. In 1998, at 56, I decided to purchase my first antique car. I wanted a 20s style with a vertical radiator.  Research highlighted I wanted a 4 door, 6 or 8 cylinder in good condition both cosmetic and mechanical.  Hemmings & Craigs List along with other web sites were used.  I searched over 18 months traveling up to 5 hours to view cars I actually didn’t want.  “You may have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find Prince Charming.”  I was also advised to avoid project cars if I planned to drive it in my life time. I first saw the ad in May, in August when he lowered the asking price, I contacted him to drive it.  Picked it up in October 2000.


    I suggest you use Hemmings to select car events to view & sit in cars for sale.  Charlotte has a large car show at the race track.  If your not 100% on the car, wait.  You could miss a car but another will show up.  When you find a great car some distance away, have a local person inspect it for you.  You could use someone from AACA check it out.  The good news is more cars & events will occur as summer arrives.



  3. I have had 67 Mustang on the road about 3 years & was redone as a very nice driver.  It has about 134,000 miles with everything new about 3,500 miles ago.  The car is an 289 V8, auto, Factory A/C, PS, new paint, interior carpet, headliner, seats, moter rebuilt & trans.  I plan to put it up for sale when the weather breaks in April.  If interested, PM me.






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  4. Sears did not mfg any tires but contracted with Armstrong Rubber Co.  50% of Armstrong’s yearly production in the 50s - 70s were Allstate.  The contract called for Armstrong to be paid on a cost plus by Sears.  Sears warehoused tires in 1 of 5 plants and shipped tires directly from plant to stores.  Michelin tires were imported by Sears to the Armstrong plants to be distributed to the stores.  Armstrong built radial tires starting in the late 60’s. Surprisingly, the Des Moines plant, in the 60’s, built tires for Firestone, Good Year, Goodrich, Phillips Oil, and others.  The Firestone plant across town sent a truck every evening to pickup the days production.

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  5. The AACA club does not require you to own an antique vehicle, you only have to have an interest.  Our local club tours monthly from April thru October and normally 10 to 50 percent will drive a modern car.  We tour about 40 MPH unless a slower car shows up.


    In Ohio there is the “Ohio Region” & 7 local Chapters around the state.  Three times a year we have a weekend region gathering with both modern & antique vehicles.


    Join in the National club and visit your local chapter/region tours before joining.


  6. In 1988 I was looking for a good used car for my daughter and seriously considered a new Yugo.  I purchased a used low mileage 5 year old car from a church member.  In checking with my machanic, he discouraged my purchasing a Yugo calling it a “throw away car”.  You don’t fix it, junk it.  Yugo shipped cars but not repair parts & it took weeks to months to repair them.  The part that held the hatch back window in place was faulty & people taped a plywood pannel in place driving the car for months.  I listened to my machanic’s advice & thanked him for years.


    if you are keeping it in a museum, it ok.  It was never a dependable daily driver.

  7. A longer tongue allows better control when backing.


    With more steel, a longer tongue will add weight to the tongue at the ball.


    The tongue weight calculation is to use the distance from the ball to the axel & the percentage of distance the weight is from the front.  we need the cargo area length & the tongue length for both trailers.  We will also need the distance the axle is from the ball.

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  8. It appears you are using the “by guess & by golly” weight distribution methiod.  When you buy a travel trailer, it is built with a tongue weight equal 10 to 15% of the trailer.  When the hitch weight gets heavier, you need equalizer bars to distribute the tongue weight to the front wheels & back to the trailer wheels.  


    When the tongue weight is too little, the trailer can sway sideways back & forth till you slow down or flip over.


    (1) load your trailer & weight it without the tow vehicle attached.

    (2) Next weigh the tow vehicle without the loaded trailer.

    (3) Attach the trailer to your tow vehicle & move the only the tow vehicle wheels on the scale.

    (4) Subtract the tow vehicle (2) weight from the tow vehicle attached to trailer (3) giving the tongue weight.

    (5) Divide the tongue weight (4) by the trailer weight (1) giving percentage of hitch weight.  This should be in the 10 to 15% range.

    (6) Move the car forward or back to attain 10 to 15% tongue weight.


    The tow vehicle & trailer should be even height front to back.  If it sags at the ball, you are a candidate for equalizer bars.  With the bars, you can load the car closer to the front with a 15 to 20% tongue weight.


    • Like 3