huptoy

The first think you need to do is to join the Hupmobile Club. This will give you access to parts available, and Hupmobile tours around the country. This year the week long tour will be in Reno NV. In recent years it has been in north central PA, Dayton, Oh, NH, and next year it will in southern IN. In 2010 we had a second tour of 3 days around northern Indiana. The following link is found in the forum for Restorations under 1929 Hupmobile. You will find his documented project very interesting. http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1929-hupmobile-project-246532.html You don't need a running Hupmobile to attend the tours. Every effort is made for you to ride each day in a Hupmobile. This will permit you to meet and talk with owners.

Are you sure the Cadillac used a split rim on solid steel wheels? I can be corrected but didn't the wire wheels and steel wheels not use a separate steel rim? Are you near enough to take a photo of the wheel showing the split rim? In your area, there should be a tire company that has been in business long enough to have someone experienced enough to change the tire without damaging the whitewall or rim. Detroit Tire in Xenia Oh is 200 miles away but they have people that can do the work. They are a Coker Tire dealer and can order the tires direct. Last week, I had them change my tires with wood wheels in my 1931 Hupmobile. I elected to reuse the existing flaps as they were in good condition. They were disappointed that I didn't bring any black touch up paint to apply before inflating the tires. Many companies in the late 20's and early 30's had wire and solid wheels available. In 1931 Hupmobile sold wire wheels for $10.00 and steel wheels for $40.00 as an option.

The car is in the final stages of restoration. Engine and carb have not been run yet. Just trying to get it to run the first time. After getting it to fire with starting fluid, pulled a plug and it was completely covered (wet) with gasoline. Feel free to send me a Personal Message with you phone number and we can talk. Also let me know when is the best time to call.

Does anyone have information on adjusting the Stromburg S-F3 Carb? It is installed on a 1923 Paige model 6-70. It is being used as an after market carb to replace the original Rayfield Carb. The engine is getting spark & gas but will not run. It will fire when starting fluid is sprayed directly in the carb but will immediately quit. There appears to be one adjustment screw for the gasoline jet. It would be great if someone has printed information like a mechanics manual or other documentation.

I tour & show a 1931 Hupmobile pulling a 1937 Mullins "red Cap" trailer. (see photos) Both have been restored to near factory condition and now have over 10,000 touring miles. I see no reason to exclude all trailers. Last summer I drove the Hupmobile towing the Mullins trailer 160 miles to the AACA National Meet in Louisville. The car was entered in the Driver Participation category and judged with the trailer in the closed position. No judges comments were said about the trailer. After the judging, we opened the trailer to display the period luggage, original Hupmobile tools, and an early 1930's crank record player. We played multiple vintage 78 rpm records and had a great time talking with people about the contents of both car and trailer. For the record, the Mullins MFG of Salem Ohio only built about 2,000 trailers in 1936-37. With only 100 known to exist, is a rare piece of history. The trailer design is such a classic that 74 years later, reproduction fiberglass trailers are still being built and sold.

If you provide your town, state & zip code, you will probably get suggestions of other shops who have done this type of work. With luck, you may find a rebuilt engine cheaper than doing a rebuild.

The fall of 1964 I worked a a driver for a traveling salesman selling women's clothing. He replaced the Cadillac's back seat with clothing racks full of clothing bags. He had a police siren, not a horn, attached to the inside dome light and trunk light. The alarm was not sensitive to a bump and you could have hauled it away with out setting it off. He had a key lock on the driver side front fender to activate the siren on & off. At a hotel one night in Nebraska 4 kids broke into the car. The night clerk said when the siren went off the 4 ran 5 different directions.

When starting my 1931 Hupmobile, I pull the choke all the way out and hit the starter for about 4 to 6 seconds and push the choke all the way in. When warm I only need to wait 2 to 3 seconds. The car will not start until the choke is pushed in. I don't know why but it works on my car. Best of luck.

There is a fellow in Cal who was restoring a 1929 and needed to replace the rear main. This guy did unbelievable things in the restoration. Go to the following link. Scroll down to the post on "June 15 2008" to see how he handled the problem. http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1929-hupmobile-project-246532-2.html

Did the 1930 Dodge us the Stromburg U2 carb? Is your goal to to use it to drive or show? There is a BBI carb on ebay. search on: Carter BB-1 or BB1 updraft carburetor or go direct to: Carter BB-1 or BB1 updraft carburetor - eBay (item 280638357044 end time Mar-09-11 18:30:00 PST)

Yes, Don's roadster is a 1928 Model A. Also, the center photo is a 1931 engine but he used the same oil filter on his Model A car.

A year or so ago a fellow in California documented his restoration of a 1929 model A Hupmobile. Many of the items were interchangeable with a 1930. I suggest you spend time reading his comments. http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1929-hupmobile-project-246532.html He created a very unique solution to have an original look-a-like oil filter with a modern filter inside. One of the reported problems with the original filters was the seam would split spilling oil all over the engine compartment. A replacement would be purchased and installed. I knew Don Roetman and he used a modern type spin on oil filter on his 1928 Model M 8 cyl. See photo below. He also had a 1928 Model A 6 cyl roadster and used a flow through type where the oil entered the top and exited the bottom. This type was used on farm tractors. He had the engine on both cars rebuilt in 2006 & 2007 when he had driven each them over 70,000 miles. He always used non detergent oil in his cars even after the rebuilds. Don could be considered a purest in antique cars but he used modern type oil filters.

As an alternate option, rent a 20' or 24' truck and haul your car inside. Find a garage or AAA with a rollback to put your car inside. Pick the car on the roll back then back the trucks together move it into the rental truck. Just reverse the procedure to get it out. The the price will be about $650 each way and you have no millage cost to your vehicle. I know some one who hauled a 1928 Hupmobile roadster and other things 2,500 miles in 5 days from Dayton Oh to Seattle WA in a 28' rental truck. I first heard of this when a friend drove his 28 4dr sedan from Dayton, to southern WI and had a rod go out. He hauled the car home in the back of a Uhaul truck. It's a thought.

One of the best places to find Hupmobile information and parts is in the "Parts Locator" and "The Hupp Herald" newsletters. There is no charge to advertise in the "Parts Locator". The Hupmobile Clup also has a membership roster including 4 people in Germany, 8 in England, plus other European countries.. Go to the following web page and click on Membership. Be sure to give them your email address to receive the "Parts Locator" quicker. You will find the $35.00 US club membership is a good investment. Car Clubs at Hemmings Motor News

My GUESS is he is planning for some wiggle room. I will be posting a 1953 Willys Aero 4 door with 60,000 miles for $6,000 after I get back from Chickasha about March 21st.

In the 1970's I was reading a book on decisions based on politics. One of the items was the US driving on the right side and the British on the left. Their theory was after Revolution war or the war of 1812, the US switched from the left side to the right side as a protest and a desire to not be British. I don't remember any comments about the location of the tiller or steering wheel.

Yes, you are correct, I added to link as the car looks good and is just for information.

Try this link for a 1932 model B coupe AutoTrader Classics - 1932 Hupmobile Model B Coupe Black 6 Cylinder Manual 2 wheel drive | Antiques | Arlington, TX

Do google search for 'for sale 1932 hupmobile' you may find one. Join the 'Hupmobile Club', they have cars for sale and the PARTS LOCATOR is published 4 time a year. You can also advertise that you want to buy a 1932. Car Clubs at Hemmings Motor News

This maybe a 1930 Hupmobile Model S. Check out the photo of the 1931. The outside difference between the two years were almost the same. The running lights on the fenders were added for 1931 and it has after market mirrors on the door hinge.

Thank you for identifying the car. Photo was damaged but 100 years after use, I don't expect every photo to be perfect. I am working on my genealogy and will add to information about photo. Jack

What year and make is this car? This is a photo of a car in <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->San Francisco about 1912. My grand father is in the passenger seat. This appears to be a large car as he was 6'6" tall. He was in the building industry and after the 1906 earth quake, he moved to CA from Green Bay, Wi in 1907.

What you actually pay for the car depends what kind of attachment you have. Do you really want a 25 Chevrolet and enjoy doing the work. T find the price, you can find one that has sold on ebay and deduct the cost to bring it up to equal the ebay car. As example: if the ebay car is 12,000, deduct 5,000 for body off paint, deduct 2,000 to rebuild motor, deduct 700 for new tires installed, deduct 3,000 for interior and top. This calculates the car is worth no more than 1,300 purchase price. In many cases it is cheaper to buy a completed than to restore one.

In 04 I had Calimer's Wheel Shop build a wheel for me. I sent the hardware and two wood spokes, he built the wheel. It took 4 months to get the new one but he is busy. I did not prep the parts. He blasted the metal parts and returned it as shown. I am happy with wheel and will use him again. Calimer's Wheel Shop 30 East North Street Waynesboro, PA 17268 717-762-5056 Calimers Wheel Shop: Wooden Wheels Made for Antique Autos.

Barry Wolk, did you get my PM or email? Jack