Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by brian

  1. Keep the Sisson unit. It's not all that simple to go to a manual choke. Choke butterflies installed in carburetors designed for use with the Sisson unit have no built-in vacuum "unloader" to partially open the choke as soon as the engine fires. If you hook up to the choke manually, there is a good chance you will overchoke it on some occasions. The last thing you need in an engine you want to preserve is too much raw fuel in the cylinders thus accelerating engine wear.
  2. Sandy: I have no experience with U.S. 3.25 bore engines, so I am not sure if there is a difference in the chain and sprockets used on the big block units. I mention this because there is a very good chance that a Plymouth sold in South Africa is Canadian production - this because of preferential duties among Commonwealth countries. If it is Canadian production it will have the big block engine.
  3. Rusty: Yes, the truck dual exhaust and intake manifold set up will fit any long block engine with no modifications except to the accelerator linkage. Many years ago I installed a set in a 50 Dodge wagon with the Canadian 3.375 bore engine in it. Later I replaced the engine with a 265 cu. in unit from a Chrysler. In both cases, it made a pretty inpressive difference in mid-range power. The only minor problem was that the Sisson choke would only hook up to one carburetor. I thought of making a linkage to the two chokes and operating them manually, but after experimenting with settings for the Sisson I found the engine started on the one choke only, and warmed up well without any hesitation. I recommend this installation if you can find the manifolds. I'm not sure of the first year of its use, but I know it was in use in our trucks until 1959.
  4. You definitely have some leaking valves and most likely worn rings, but I doubt this is the primary cause of either the vibration or the non-existent vacuum at idle. The vibration could be worn motor mounts in conjunction with the poor compression. The low vacuum at idle indicates a possible timing chain problem. Compression variations and lack of raised compression when oil is added indicate leaking valves on those cylinders. However, the overall low compression might be due to the timing chain being badly worn. It may be worth investigating the chain, pulling the head, and checking for bore wear before a final decision is made. It's possible a new chain/sprockets and a ring and valve job might be all that's required.
  5. I can't find any details of your vehicle at all. Can you at least describe it in general so that someone may be able to help?
  6. If you can't find original brushes, try finding some that are close in size. Hopefully, with at least one dimension the same. Then file or machine to fit. I have replaced many brushes with those not made for the particular generator and have never had a failure.
  7. AS I see it you have two options. Oversize, self-tapping plugs such as you mention used to be available in virtually every service station. You should still be able to locate one. Option 2 is to put a heli-coil in and re-use the original plug. No matter what you do, fill the flutes of the tap (even a self-tapping plug) with a really sticky, heavy grease and tap in stages. Remove the tap about every revolution and clean the chips and grease out of the tap. Re-grease and repeat until the job is done. I have used the system many, many times and never had a problem.
  8. Engine colour is silver. Another colour was likely used by an engine rebuilder.
  9. To calculate compression pressure (not 100% accurate, but close enough for an engine in good condition): - assume atmospheric pressure is 15 psi; - multiply by 6.5 (for your 36) = 97.5 psi; - add 1 atmosphere = 97.5 + 15 = 112.5
  10. Reid: Oil filter housing colour is silver - same as the engine.
  11. I recall that we used to rebuild some IND blocks for use in passenger vehicles, so I don't think there are any external differences. Obviously, there were internal differences - camshaft because of gear drive and better quality exhaust valves.
  12. Karl: Timing lights produced for some years after the advent of 12V systems were usable on either system. If there's no information that says it's dual voltage, I think you can just hook it up and see if it triggers the strobe.
  13. Karl: I'm going on memory, but I believe headlight wiring is 12 ga (at least from the relay to the lights). If you decide to go 12V, no problem. The higher the voltage, the smaller the wire diameter so you will be all set up. If you want to make your own harness, decide how many circuits you have to replace and then try to get a variety of wire with enough different colour traces. Rewiring the oldies is a fairly simple job - really just lighting circuits plus heater, radio, (if you have one) ignition, fuel gauge and ammeter. Toughest job will be keeping it all looking authentic.
  14. I have a 1936 Dodge with the Sisson choke. As far as I remember they were used on all Chrycos from at least 36 right through the last of the flatheads, so you should have no trouble locating a NOS unit. Again as far as I can remember all the electric units were the same, just the linkage varied.
  15. You can safely use 14 ga. wire for all lighting circuits except headlights. Stripe in wire is generally there to allow circuit tracing. If you can locate a correct wiring diagram for your car it will tell you wire colour and stripe colour for each circuit
  16. Hi wills: Light should have three leads: 1 to attach to spark plug #1 cyl. May be a spring clip or may be type that needs removal of plug lead so it can attach directly to spark plug, with plug lead attaching to it. It will be a thicker lead than either of the other two. 2 - Red lead or lead with red cover at clip. This is power lead and goes to negative terminal on 6V positive ground; 3 - Black lead - this goes to ground.
  17. Battery voltage seems a little low - should be 6.6. Voltage reg should be set to charge about 6.8 - 7.2 volts. Sorry I can't remember exactly going that far back, but a shop rebuilding starters and alternators in your area may still have old specs from the generator days.
  18. Mika: I recently talked to a retired RCMP officer who knew members of the stolen car detail. He said they had a method of being able to bring up ground off serial numbers - especially if there was no new number stamped over. He suggested you ask you local police department if they can help you. Your engine block must have left the factory with a serial number stamped on it, so maybe it can be restored. Brian
  19. Fred: Have your drums measured by someone who has a brake micrometer. Those old drums can safely be used until they are 0.060" over the original diameter. That means you should not turn them past 50 - 55 thou over to allow for some wear as you use the car. This sizing limit applies to virtually 100% of the drum brakes (hydraulic) found on all North American vehicles. I have no idea of limits on earlier mechanical brakes, but I'll soon have to find out as I have a '27 Essex in need of brake work. Brian
  20. Hi Ron: Canister is supposed to remain full. If you have trouble with oil spilling when you change the filter, check to see if there is a drain plug plug in the bottom of the canister (facing toward the fender and downward at about 45 degrees). My recollection is that not all had drain plugs, but if it has its easier and cleaner than having to remove the filter from a canister full of dirty oil and then suctioning it out. Brian
  21. I don't think there is ever a valid reason to customise an old vehicle, especially if it is one of a limited number remaining. However, I do think it is a good idea to upgrade components if doing so increases safety and/or performance, but does not alter the appearance of the vehicle in any way, and that includes under the hood.
  22. No, I don't remember that it was necessary to detach the front mount in order to replace rears. However, I was a Chryco mechanic many years ago and my memory may be faulty. As insurance, perhaps you should loosen front mount.
  23. Hi Mika: It's very likely that your engine is Canadian production. All Canadian flat heads were based on the long block (Chrysler & DeSoto only in the U.S.). For Canadian Plymouth, Dodge and small trucks the big block bore was 3.375" with varying stroke lengths. As the truck was U.K assembled it most likely came from Canada as there was a preferential duty system in place for products from the British Commonwealth. Sorry I can't help with a possible location for another number on the engine.
  24. For rear mounts replace one side at a time. Leave one bolted down; set jack under back of oil pan with a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 bridging the pan so it doesn't collapse. Lift carefully until mount is free. Replace and bolt down, but not completely tight. Move jack to other side, unbolt mount and repeat. For front mount remove fan and water pump pulley. Mount is a flat sandwich under water pump. Sandwich is steel, rubber, steel with 2 x 5/16 NF studs top and bottom. Remove four nuts. Place jack and board across front of pan. Lift engine until sandwich is free. Often sheared and comes out in two pieces. Replace mount and let jack down. it usually helps to have a helper to make sure upper studs enter holes as engine is lowered.
  25. Fred, if you can get the blade of a flat screwdriver between the ends and then twist it you should be able to open the clip up. Try a larger screwdriver and open it further. When you can't spread the ends any further take a flat screwdriver with the tip in good condition, place it on the clip opposite the open end, hold it a low angle and tap the end of the driver with a hammer. This usually removes the clip without damaging it beyond further use.
  • Create New...