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Everything posted by brian

  1. Does anyone have a spare copy for sale? If not, I would appreciate suggestions as to a reliable vendor. Thanks for the help. Brian
  2. Does anyone have a spare copy for sale? If not, I would appreciate suggestions as to a reliable vendor. Thanks for the help. Brian
  3. Rebecca: All Chrysler products were positive ground through 1954 - no exceptions that I have ever heard of. your 36 should definitely be positive ground. Brian
  4. Warwick: All Chryco L-head engines from at least 1936 forward had hardened exhaust seat inserts, as unleaded fuel was the norm when the seats were first used. Thankfully, Chrysler never gave them up. To my recollection no other manufacturer used hardened seats until the advent of modern unleaded fuel and the emergence of the valve seat recession problem In terms of high or low octane fuel, 87 octane is higher than the octane rating of the fuel when the engine was originally built, so there is no value whatsoever in using a higher octane - the engine simply cannot benefit from it. Brian
  5. It's quite possible that the fingers are misadjusted and not pulling the pressure plate back evenly so that it clears the disc. In the dim, dark past I rebuilt clutch assemblies for a living, and finger adjustment is critical. From memory, all the rebuild manuals had you bolt the pressure plate to a flat surface (no disc in place) and then set finger height using a dial guage referenced from the flat plate. As I remember, no more than 0.010 variation was allowed, although Borg & Beck clutches (Mopar use) are much less sensitive than some other makes to slight misadjustment. Brian
  6. I use DELO by Chevron (I'm told it stands for Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil - makes sense) or any other diesel rated oil from a reputable manufacturer in all my old iron. I've never had any type of lubrication failure, or evidence of excessive wear. Brian
  7. Hey, take it easy there Dave. To us Canadians the car is not "odd" by any means. We had the advantage for may years of having two complete lines of Dodge - Plymouth-based and the others the same as the U.S. One great advantage we had was the long block engine and the ability to get 265+ cubic inches without altering the external appearance of the engine or giving up an "original" engine. I wish I now had a few dollars for every engine upgrade we did without the authorities - or anyone not directly involved - ever being one bit wiser. Brian
  8. Martylum mentions that brake linings can be ruined by being soaked in gear oil. This is true. However, there is a way of salvaging most brake linings (and also clutch disc facings) soaked with any type of oil or brake fluid. Please don't try this in an enclosed space, and don't breathe the fumes! Use laquer thinner and soak the affected part(s) thoroughly. When they are quite well soaked use an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the part, but don't get it too hot. The oil, diluted by the thinner, will boil off and burn. If the shoe is really badly soaked, and has been for a long time, you may have to repeat the process one or two additional times. If you have not thoroughly removed the oil from the lining, the worst that will happen is that oil will retun to the surface when the brakes have been applied hard and long enough to heat them up - probably to a temperature greater that you got them to in the fist place. If this happens, remove the shoe and repeat the soak and heat process. Over the years, I have found this a virtually sure-fire way to restore oil-soaked friction surfaces. Brian
  9. It's possible that each of those letters indicates a variation in bore diameter from standard. Pistons have always been a selective fit because both they and the bores will vary a few thou from the actual standard. I'm not sure abour Chrysler engines, but I know that 'ABC' were used to indicate: A = standard,B = 0.002" overbore and C = 0.005" overbore on new blocks from another manufacturer. This made it simple for the assembly person to choose the correct diameter piston for each hole from his stock. Variations in diameters of both bores and pistons constitute the basic reason that pistons are numbered for their holes and must be returned to the same holes if they are to be re-used after removal.
  10. I don't know if Owatonna Tool co is still in business, but they made a really good hub puller. Tools are branded as "OTC"
  11. His engine has most likely been rebuilt in the past and the original id was ground off. I am aware of some jurisdictions that required any rebuilt engine to have the original number ground off and a new, officially assigned number stamped on the pad.
  12. A universal 3 arm puller should work fine. The universal pullers made by Owatonna and other reputable tool companies were designed to fit any 4, 5 or 6 bolt pattern with a wide range of bolt circle diameters. As has been stressed previously, be sure to invert the retaining nut and screw it down flush on the axle. Also, after you have tensioned the puller as tight as you can, be sure to hit it with the heaviest hammer you can find. A couple of really heavy blows are potentiallly less damaging to the axle than many blows with a light hammer.
  13. The Massey Harris engine is likely a long block, especially if the combine was built in Canada. I'm not 100% sure, but experience with other Chrysler ind. units is that they will bolt up to any bell housing of a similar year. The flywheel may be different, as may the manifolds, but they are a lot cheaper and easier to get than complete engines. If it is the long block it has the advantage of being able to be taken up to 265+ cu. in. and it already has the industrial strength exhaust valves and Stellite seats. Absolutely no problems concerning valve seat recession with modern fuels. It is very much worth while checking thoroughly in terms of possible transplant into your car.
  14. Travis gboy is 100% correct. You cannot solve the problems with that block - at least not at any sensible cost. Hold a burial service for it and find another engine.
  15. I would not be comfortable with the concept of using tapered pins. A tapered pin would have only one sealing surface, essentially a line around it where it forms an interference fit with the block - not much sealing surface. In contrast, a pipe plug is designed to seal against pressurised liquid and has a great deal more sealing surface. In addition, the pins would have to be driven in, and I don't like the idea of repeated impact on an already weakened surface.
  16. The plug system involves using 1/8" pipe plugs. You need a 1/8" pipe tap, the correct tap drill, a 3/8" drill, a small hand grinder, a wrench and a supply of pipe plugs and thread sealer. The procedure is to drill the first hole centred at the left end of the crack, tap the hole and tighten in the pipe plug liberally coated with thread sealer (do not overtighten as you may cause a new problem). Grind the plug flat, Drill the next hole centred at the intersection of the pipe plug and the crack, tighten in the next plug, grind flat, and repeat until the crack is completely repaired. This system is called "stitching" and has the advantage of being a cold repair as well as being absolutely permanent. I have done many, and it is a sure-fire solution although labour and time intensive.
  17. If you can still get it, the correct packing is graphite impregnated - as has been noted - and it is called "Garlock" packing. Having the name might make it easier to find.
  18. BvR: My email is brian@thermacoustics.com. I look forward to seeing a picture.
  19. Thanks, BvR but go ahead, Rusty. My car is in another city, but memory tells me the wheel is whitish rather than brown. I was waiting for a call from it's custodian to confirm, but I'm virtually certain I'm right. Of course, I'll be ticked off if I'm wrong and brown is the colour.
  20. Wanted - steering wheel for a 50 De Soto. Mine is just the skeleton with a bit of plastic left on the hub. Failing anyone having a wheel for sale, or knowing where I can get one, I would appreciate pictures and/or drawings of an original wheel so that a friend can make a replica. This guy is a very talented, expert worker in metal and plastics - he makes a speciality spray gun for our company - and if he can get accurate info to make a wheel for me he would be interested in making them for any other buyers. However, he does need very detailed information in order to replicate the wheel correctly.
  21. Hi Fred: It is possible to change from babbit to insert bearings on any engine. But, and it's a big but, the problem is finding inserts designed for crank pins of the same diameter, or within the undersizes available for the particular bearing. As well the insert width needs to be such that it either fits the rod, or the rod can be narrrowed to accept it. Also, rod and cap need to be notched for the insert tabs and the oil feed holes in the inserts may need to be re-drilled. Sounds daunting, but I know it can be done. A friend had his '27 Paige (Continental 8 cyl.) fitted with inserts on the rods and mains. Needless to say, it's a machine shop job. A further consideration is the final weight of the rod and insert assembly - should be reasonably close to the original, but old, slow revving engines are less crtitical in terms of balance. Brian
  22. If the wheels are sound and the seal areas on the rims are not pitted badly enough to prevent sealing, tubeless radial tires can be used with absolutely no problems. If the seal areas are too badly pitted to provide a seal, it may be still possible to get tube-type radial tires. They were originally used on European vehicles, many years before we discovered their benefits. Under no circumstances put a tube in a tubeless tire. You run the risk of unacceptable heat build up that can cause casing failure.
  23. No wonder NAPA can't help. No Dodge V8's in '48. Engine must be later, if it is actually a Chryco unit. Are you sure of the engine's heritage? If you post details here, someone will be able to tell you what you have.
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