Ames63

Scanning Craigslist as usual. Wife will kill me if I buy another car, but ran across this one for an 89 Reatta. 89 buick reatta I have to ask honestly what were they thinking when they painted this one. It's ok I guess if you are a lady, but if you are a man please turn in your man card before you drive this one

Hey guys thanks for the replies, I have been away on vacation. I will check the codes when I get home today. Also the indicator light is on the IPC, just below the gas gauge.

I need help finding a thread that dealt with the following problem: When I accelerate my 89 Reatta the "electrical problems" indicator comes on. When I let off the gas it will go out. This is a repeated action everyime I hit the gas pedal. And I remember seeing a thread on the forum that had the fix for this problem however I can't seem to find it now. Can someone help me find the thread or give me the solution to my problem.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I get the classic momentary warning message flash on the dash and then quickly disappear and this only happens when I accelerate. So I'm certain the sensor has to be replaced. I'll get to work on it tomorrow.

Can someone tell me the location of the oil pressure sensor. I am receiving a B132 code and suspect it is only to replace the sensor.

After getting my 89 reatta back from the shop, I noticed that the system tone was faint. Ordinarly the tone volume would be a (7) on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the loudest. Currently it is about a (1). I can't seen to find the control to turn it up. Could someone chime in and tell me where the volume control is so I can adjust this.

I was just reading a post by BillNC dated 2 December 2005, he had replaced a lower ball joint and mentioned that it was very hard to tap out the rivets that hold the joint in place on the control arm. Seeing as how he ended up using an air chisel. I am wondering if I should attempt to do this myself or take it to the shop and let the pros replace it in a couple of hours. Does anyone have an opinion of this repair?

Contact Jim Finn, if its Reatta he has it at his yard in Duluth

I'll crawl up under it today or tomorrow and re-inspect it. I probably missed it the first time.

So last week I thought maybe I had a hole on my exhaust system, the car was sounding pretty loud on start up and when I would come to a stop. Funny thing is the rpm's were right where they should be 650-725. I did notice that if I were to shift to neutral the loudness would go away, again rpm's 650-725 normal. Does anyone know why the car sounds loud as if the rpm's were racing high?

I'd like to thank everyone for their comments, it is certainly food for thought. I'll proceed to get as much as I can for the Reatta, It was in great condition for a daily driver. I will work on: 1. getting the comparables. 2. talking with Mike at buickreattaparts.com NCReatta, I had not planned on buying the car back primarily b/c I do not have a place to store the car, my HOA would have a fit if it were there for more that a day. I will however if there is an interest, have the ins. adjuster to contact you or others here if they want parts.

My son's 88 reatta was wrecked this week via a 60 year old drunk driver in Winston-Salem, NC. We are going thru the process with the insurance company (Nationwide). I am trying to determine what is a fair price for the car. I looked up it value according to NADA guides.com and it listed: Low retail $2750 Ave retail $5375 High retail $9350 One thing to note, it does not mention anything about mileage. I'm not sure why that is not a factor? The vehicle is going to fall somewhere in between low and ave. But in conjunction to determining what is appropiate. I want to factor in some recent repairs. I feel that it is reasonable to do so what do you think given the repairs performed: Repair 1. Water pump $80.00 (did myself) 2. Tranmission Rebuild $1,853.60 3. Brakes + new rear caliphers $170.00 (did myself) 4. Tires +Alignment $310.00 TOTAL $2413.60 I'm not looking to get the total repair price, but I believe 25% of the total price would be fair. Again what do you think? BTW I tried attaching a pic of the damage however I get some unknown error

Just checked NC DMV, and it only gets worst. "Antique Plates To apply for antique plates, your vehicle must be at least 35 years old. Apply for the plates at your local DMV office. The plates cost $38. To view antique and other specialized license plates, the DMV offers this website. " NCDOT Division of Motor Vehicles: Search / View Specialized Plates CATEGORY: SPECIAL INTERESTS Antique Vehicle Yearly Fee(s) in addition to regular fees: Special: $10.00 Plate Requirements: Prefix/Suffix: No Issued to Whom: Issued to a vehicle that is more than 35 years old Personalize: Personalized: No Plate Renewal: Staggered - renewed by sticker; expires end of month; valid 15 days of next month

Thanks for the reccomendations, We are meeting tomorrow to work on the car

I recently had my 89 in at Euroclassics, having the transmission rebuilt (excellent place) they are an Amoco certified facility. So far the work has been excellent, the car is peppier now (no more slipping) gas mileage city/hwy went from 23 .4 to 25.7, and I'm a happy camper. I'll be taking her back for the 500 mile follow up shortly. But on the day I picked her up. The shop commented that they do not see any of these on the road and that someone else bought in a white reatta for servicing (transmission rebuild I think). I'm just curious if it was anyone from the forum and how did they like the quality of work at Euroclassics?

Helping my brother with his 1990 740 GL, we thought it was the fuel pump(btw his volvo has only one fuel pump, not two), so we replaced it. I tested the old fuel pump and it is working just fine. We replaced the fuel pump relay, the fuel filter and (FPR)fuel pressure regulator. Still not fuel is getting into the combustion chamber. We did spray starter fluid into the intake and the car started and ran for a few seconds(`10 sec). So we know it is a fuel delivery issue. We know that if we remove the FPR and cycle the electronics the fuel pump pushes out fuel. I suspect we initially we misdiagnoised the problem, but we suspect either the FPR was the problem or for some reason the injectiors are not opening up. Since fuel will not flow pass the new FPR, is there away to prime the system to start flow pass the FPR or is there a way to determine if the injectors(all of them) are not functioning or have we misdiagnoised the problem again?

Tranny fluid is red, with no burnt smell. I do have a lot of miles on the car~224k. i had been reading some of the previous post and I noticed some recommendations are to check a motor mount or flush the tranny. Does anyone know what mount causes this problem? How to check it? And flushing how is this accomplished?

Sorry i forgot ti mention I was a half quart low. Put some in just as I had arrive at the city (good ole Advance Auto Dex III, but still had the same probelm as I continued home.

So I was driving home yesterday, pulled out of the parking lot and hit the open rode. I suspect I was in 1st gear, got up to around 25-28 mph and the tranny shifted to second but did not feel second gear kick in. Engine rpm shot up to 2800-2900 rpm though and I felt just the slightest bit of acceleration, almost like being in 10th gear on a bicycle. After the srtuggle to get up to a good speed ~48mph the tranny shifted again, I guess into 3rd and then 4th. Those shifts were normal. After getting off the Hwy and back on the city streets the tranny misbehaved again. Made it home, but boy what a struggle. tell me have I lost second gear or do I need a new or rebuilt tranny? I am clueless when it comes to transmissions.

So I ran acroos this guy selling a hardshell tonnuea cover for my 09 Colorado. It was only $100.00 so I thought hey what a great deal. It was red so I painted it black, mounted it on my truck and now I need to find the appropiate lifters or struggle lifting it on my own. The guy at Autozone said I need to figure out how much the cover weighs, and this is my delima. My brother suggested that I raise the top, put a scale on the floor bed and use a 2x4 wedged in between the cover and the scale and add 20% to the weight read off the scale. Do you guys think this is a good idea or does anyone have any ideas on how to determine what lifters would fit for this cover?

I own both a 88 and a 89 reatta.

In case anyone is interested. I am not sure it a 98 turbo charged Regal would work in any year Reatta 98 Supercharged Regal

Finally was able to scan the car two codes popped up... 1. P0100 MAF or VAF sensor 2. P0325 Knock Sensor Bank 1 or Sensor 1 (Not sure what this means, not even familiar with a Knock sensor.)

I must have hit a wrong key, as I cut myself off. But again I am at a cruise speed and then I get a lunge forward briefly. My brother and I will be reading codes later this evening, hopefully something pops up that will be obvious.

As mentioned in one of the earlier replies " cruise control is not engaged, I am only at a cruise speed, 45,55,65 mph and then