Mark Shaw

The inside of the letters appears to be unpolished plating. I see no signs of paint. Send me a direct email and I will send a large photo for you to examine. durcodude@comcast.net

This is a photo of an emblem on an original unrestored 38 Special. It appears that the emblem is plated and polished only on the raised portion of the letters.

Agreed, but only if the car is equipped with a good oil filter system. Many prewar cas have no oil filter or only filter part of the oil flow.

Mike, For your first posting, you sure got lots of responses! I think this was enlightening for many. When I was little, my family went clamming at Pismo Beach. I understand that there are fewer Pismo Clams left now, but you should try it sometime. There is nothing like Fettuccini in fresh clam sauce right on the beach! Enjoy...

My reference shows the 1920 Cole Aero 8 was a 127" wheel base car with 80 HP and 9 body styles. The only coup listed is a Sportcoupe.

Dick, I don't question if the hitch can take 4,000 lb. I am sure it is similar to the type typically found on 1/2 ton pickups. But I do question if the car's frame and suspension was originally built or properly engineered and modified to accelerate and handle that load. This is not an issue to be taken lightly. The police will also question this if the driver is ever pulled over or if it is ever in an accident (hopefully not). Police will go only by the manufacturer's rated towing capacity. If they determine that the combined tow vehicle and trailer load exceeds the rated capacity of the vehicle, it could mean significant liability for the driver. (Copied from one of many sites with towing advice) "The manufacturer determines a vehicles tow rating. It is the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle can safely tow. The manufacturer takes many factors into consideration when determining a tow rating. They look at the vehicles engine size, transmission, axle ratio, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires, cooling capacity and many other things. Most manufacturers offer vehicles with tow packages. A tow package upgrades the vehicles suspension, brakes, tires, and cooling system. They also add items like engine and transmission oil coolers to protect the vehicles major components when you are towing." Although this Buick has been upgraded by the owner, it is still not rated to tow such a heavy load. The real question to ask here is: "Is it safe?"

Harry, Expect to pay somewhere north of $125. I just remembered... I will send you a PM with an email address for a guy in Portland Or. that rebuilds them. I know he has extras, because I gave him one in exchange for rebuilding mine..... Mark

Harry, All my Buicks have original carbs except for my 13 Buick. I still have the original Schebler carb for it, but it is more important to me to have it run well than show it for judged events. I drive it on lots of summer tours and it runs much better on the BB1. Per your request, here are a couple of photos of my 24 Buick PU.

I don't know how long GM has been building Buicks and Cadillacs on the same assembly line. But, during the Buick Centannial, I toured the local GM assembly plant where I saw both makes on the same assembly line. They were installing interiors on the line I saw so I could tell the difference between makes. So, I would think your Buick might be a good candidate for that posi rear end.

I have to agree with Diz. You car was not intended to be towing that load. Maybe a teardrop trailer would be Ok, but that big heavy rig you have will definately shorten the life of your Buick.

David, My firewall data plate was also missing when I bought my 38 last year. It seems that the aftermarket heater was installed where the water tubes came through the firewall. Please advise if and when you find a vendor that makes reproductions.

Harry, I suggest you try a Zenith Carb: http://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/updraft_267ec.htm

Vince, Ok, so from your last post it seems you have a reciprocating air pump that runs off of a lobe on the camshaft. If the air intake comes from a slot in one side of the piston (I wish I could see a photo or drawing of it). It is possible that the piston is installed up-side-down. If the slot is at the low side of the piston it would draw in more oil. In any case, you could make a small separation tank and install it somewhere in the pressurized line between the pump and the fuel tank. If you connect the input line near the bottom and outlet from the top, it would allow any oil to drop to the bottom where you could have a drain valve to preiodically remove the excess oil. Better yet; there are in-line air/water separators available from most automotive paint suppliers that would probably work well for this.

Evidently, Dodge used a different engine for their trucks. I believe my spare carb is too big for your engine. Sorry,

Harry, I have a couple of BB1 carbs. What is the displacement of your engine?

I fall into the category with Matt McHinson's comments. My grandfather was a mechanic and inventor who worked the fabric mills in Mass. He was also a blacksmith who made his own tools. Most of my tools came from my father's collection obtained from my grandfather and from growing up on a dairy in Mass. My dad later worked selling and installing milking & refrigeration equipment. I still have big aluminum open end wrenches originally used to keep from damaging the stainless steel sanitary fittings on milk tanks. They work great for safely removing hub caps! Many of my tools are quite old. Some of my big hammers and blacksmith tools were actually made by my grandfather prior to 1900. So, I guess it is in keeping with family history that I still buy more old tools than new ones to work on my prewar and brass era Buicks. I bought a hub puller just last summer that dates into the early teens. But the first real specialized tool I remember buying new was an air flow meter to synchronize the SU carbs on my first car...a 62 MG Midget. It went with the car when I sold it.

Derek, I emailed several listed on Craigslist in the Midwest and Northeast.

Jerry, I only recently purchased my 38 Buick & it came with sealed beams. I like to keep my cars as original as possible to the period in which they were made & I like the look of the original "bug Eyes" on the 37 & 38 Buicks. Although I do have a modified Buick Truck and a Buick Speedster that were both made from touring cars, they were done with period modifications to incomplete original cars. (My PU was made from two parts cars.) I bought my original conversion parts from Dave Tacheny in Champlin MN. I just received them today and am very pleased with my purchase. I suggest you keep your original headlights and buy a pair of bumper mounted driving lights to suppliment your original headlights for what little nighttime driving you will be doing with your Buick. I have been looking at a pair from Kanter that are available with Buick logo name crests in two sizes for either 6 or 12 VDC. http://www.kanter.com/p67-lts.html#FOG_LIGHTS

Vince I worked in the pump industry (pumping liquids) for many years. And, I am familiar with air pumps on Cadillacs and other cars that use air to pressurize fuel or for starting the car. But I have not seen an air pump on a Buick. Can you post a couple of photos? I suspect that if you sleeved the pump case, and dressed the pump vanes to seal against the new sleeve, oil must be coming from the shaft seal.

Frank, First, thanks for stepping up to host the BCA National this year. I mailed my registration last week. However, when my wife (the auditor & CFO of the household) reviewed my copy of the registration form, she noticed that I failed to indicate that I will need to park a car trailer. I expect that you have already allowed for some of us "less than accurate" form fillers. Please advise the best way to make changes on registration forms already submitted.

James, I once belonged to the BCA Capitol Chapter in Sacramento when I lived in Fairfield CA. The meetings at Sam's Hof Brau near the old Capitol Records store were worth the hour long drive. I encourage you to go to a few meetings just to connect with those members with prewar Buicks. These contacts will be invaluable in locating services and resources to help get you going. Also, when you join the BCA, you will receive a roster of members that will enable you to locate members with cars (and spare parts) like yours.

Here is a photo of one wall that blew out when the roof caved in.

treysir, I have the same car & will be glad to help. John already suggested a good course of action.

What Car(s) are you planning to transport? Why are you considering aluminum over steel trailers?

Sorry, but in my personal opinion, writing to Pelosi would be a waste of time and effort. (There is a reason she isn't called the "House Listener"). Writing to you own representative would be more productive; particularly if you present one or more of the excellent cases listed on the link site to defend your position.