luftweg

Ah, I'll check there first then. So I guess my 'logic' of narrowing it down to the high-beam conductor (and connections) between the hi-lo relay under the inside fuse bank, and that first headlamp holds? I did already also check voltage at the PAX side headlamp connector (reading zero when high-beam lever pulled on).

I have the exact same issue now on my '89 'winter driver' Reatta.... And I don't want to 'borrow' the switch assembly from the good '89... Unless I find either a cheap working used switch assembly, or a tutorial here on fixing one, I may have to try to make my own tutorial (if I'm successful)... Saw one on eBay, asking $50; I hope there are ones out there cheaper than that. I also have an issue with both high-beams not working; but bulbs test fine, and I heard the relay working (and even swapped 2 other relays in), so I'm inclined to believe that it's a wire or connector between the relay and the headlamps themselves. I've glanced at what I believe is a circuit schematic, and unless I'm mistaken, I do not think the dash switch has anything to do with high-beam problem (since I have low-beams, and the relay switches from low-beam to no lights at all in the high-beam setting (with the blue dash indicator light coming on)).

I need to know the name of the mount that is directly in front of the harmonic balancer.... I had a serpentine belt failure, and it clobbered the CPK crankshaft sensor; the car immediately stalled and would not restart; with an inspection mirror, I could see that a part of the sensor appears missing (with a bare copper metal wire or contact now exposed).... So, in order to get to the nut for the harmonic balancer, I removed that mount in front of it -- which connects to the AC compressor bracket -- and in removing the nut, the shaft for the mount broke (at the point where the nut is).... I thought this would be called an 'engine mount', but I now don't think that's correct name.... Anyone know the name and where I can get one (or just the shaft/rod that goes through it)? thanx, Luftweg

Hey, so it sounds like your problem is solved? In summary, it all turned out to be that fuel pump relay then? And that you had errantly replaced a different relay (which was not the fuel pump relay) in the early-on stages of working on this problem? On my Reatta, I have had the same exact symptoms, but, I could have sworn that I had been hearing the fuel pump run for the 1.5 - 2 seconds (it's supposed to run (?))... And I thought you had mentioned that you also heard the pump running on yours -- at least sometimes (in an older post, and well before changing the real relay)... So I guess my question is whether this can be a somewhat intermittant problem?

Although my Reatta has been off the road for quite some time (it has been stored for over a year), I too had pretty much exactly what you describe (the 'needs-three-to-five-cranks-to-start-in-the-morning-but-starts-okay-if-it-has-been-running-within-the-last-three-hours' syndrome)... I never got very deep into solving the problem; I did notice that it seemed to make no difference what the weather was, and that turning the key to on position a few times (for a few seconds each time) didn't seem to work (at least in any obvious way). I had been told all the stuff about the prom, fuel pump, filter (changed that), battery, etc... Btw, mine is an 89 with about 85k miles.... Is it possible that this problem is 'idiopathic' to many Reattae?

That guy's clearly preparing for, and speculating on, the future when/if Reattas finally really become collectable -- and more valuable...

body colored side mouldings, hands down... looking to have that done on mine -- possibly...

I've always felt that the key to this working smoothly/quickly is the development a 'black box', that would 'translate' computer codes between the 'new' engine/drivetrain, and the 'old' Reatta's dashboard/electronics... Of course, there would still be some other issues, like mounts and such, but what it always seems to come down to -- as a stumbling-block -- is whether the engine and car can talk to each other... Until engine/drivetrain swaps become 'standardized' in the Reatta, it will probably always be a more expensive proposition than what it's worth in the end... And moreover, it will deter many people from even trying to do it, which will further help keep it from being a straightfoward undertaking. We need an engineered solution. Am I wrong about this?

Have you thought about the torque converter possibly being bad?

Don't suppose Ryan tweaked out that riding mower? Is that a customer's, or just his own.... and is it SC-ed? lol.

>> ... car will be converted to right hand drive per government regulations ... << Didn't realize that cars HAD to be right-sided driver's seat in NZ. Wonder. Does this apply also in the UK? In the US, I could have sworn I have seen several right-sided cars (mostly like Rolls, Triumphs, and Jags); so, does the reverse rule apply here in the 'States' (as yous for-a-ners mites likes to calls uz)?

I have an '89 red/tan. I don't really like the side moulding color (black), and prefer the look of all the Reattae that have matching moulding and body panels.... I was wondering if anyone out there had just the mouldings repainted to match the rest of the car in this way? (I think there is someone who did this but also had the bumpers painted too -- I don't think I want to paint the bumpers though... just the mouldings). How much would this cost?

.... love that pipe wrench (or monkey wrench?) holding the hood up!

I really like those spoke wheels.....

Well I, for one, am excited about your SC Reatta project... Naturally, I am very interested in pursuing the idea myself someday... Hope everything works out well, that you get all the bugs out, AND that you well document every step. You are after all a pioneer (one of the pioneers -- no slight to others, because still there are not many who have done it)... and your reports will be of great value. Maybe someday there will be some sort of aftermarket 'translator' available to hook different engine's ECMs to the Reatta BCM, that might end up being the 'missing link' that will simply the whole matter.... or am I thinking sci-fi here?

Whatever happened to that dude who was pursuing the RWD conversion for a Reatta? Was it all abandoned as being too unfeasible, etc.?

LoL. CaDILLac. One 'D', two 'L's'.

>>...The Reatta project employees being the best of the best, with even the assembly workers being hand-selected. this just backs up my understanding that the Craft Centre was given virtual carte blanche to do whatever they felt was best to satisfy their customers, without the usual GM hierarchy. << Would this also have included drivetrain modifications, like manual trannies, performance engines, etc.?

Barney: Could it be possible for you to track down where that 89 Reatta is, so that someone here (possibly even me) might research purchasing it (IF the installation was done correctly and acceptably)?

... and how come only 1.5 inches? wouldn't like 2.5 be more worth it, or would that throw off the suspension/steering way to far (the 'ricer syndrome')?

What's more of a question to me is how well the installation was done, and how much everthing on the car worked like before, etc.... Since, it all seems, it's not that easy to pull-off well.

The following is a reply to an email I sent to some dude selling an item on eBay ( TECH 1 TECH1 SCAN MASTERTECH BCM TROFEO REATTA DIESEL item# 4608147280 ) I have seen something from him before on this forum, so it's probably not all that new: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- I also sent you a message that will be posted on the auction, in case other Reatta folks are interested. This is a very do-able project. However, it is not without snags. First, I'll point you to my website where you can see my 88 Supercharged Trofeo. It is www.theautoshop.net/SuperchargedTrofeo.htm Next, I need to warn you. There are alot of people out there that will mislead you on a project like this. There's a bunch of people that can burn chips for SC 3800's and they'll tell you to use a newer ECM/PCM to run the engine and an older one to communicate with the BCM. Doing this will cause problems with the sensor readings and disable many of the diagnostic functions of these cars. There are a couple ways to handle this. The stock ECM can be programmed to work with the newer engine. This has been a surprise to many people, but most of the sensors will work just fine with the existing 1228253 ECM. You can use either ignition system (though if you're staying with DIS, I'd recommend the Delco) and the crank and cam sensors work just fine as is. You'll have to use the original knock sensor or at least one from an OBDI engine, but the TPS, IAC, CTS, etc. will work fine. One catch is the Mass Airflow tables in the older ECM will have to be rescaled to work with the 255gm/sec MAF that the Series 2 engine has. The other problem is the EGR. I'm not currently running EGR on my engine, but you'd have to come up with some kind of adapter to run the VIN C EGR, as the 1228253 won't control the newer EGR valve. That is the only emissions control device I'm not currently using. Another way you could do this would be to reprogram the data stream from the Series 2 PCM to talk to the Reatta BCM. This would be a major undertaking. I've had a few people ask about doing this, but I've never attempted it. I do know that with stock software it doesn't communicate. The big problem is the baud rates, I'm just not sure how you'd get them to synch up. Once you have that under control, then you need to figure out how the OBDII PCM handles communications. To be honest, I really didn't see how it was worth the effort, and I'm not even sure if the OBDII PCM would be capable of handling the BCM's input for cylinder balance, IAC control, etc. Add to that the BCM control of HVAC and cruise (varies year to year and models) and you've got a lot of interfacing and things that don't work right without the proper communications. Without keeping all the toys, it defeats the purpose of modifying one of these cars. Any questions, feel free to ask. The Trofeo and Reatta are quite similar, so I should be able to help you with most problems in this conversion. Btw, the Tech 1 scanner is a very handy tool to have for these. I have both the Tech 1 and Tech 2, you just can't beat factory diagnostics. The one I'm selling is an extra that I bought for a cartridge it had. It's in very nice condition, and works great. It has the cartridges you'll need for these cars (the body cartridge being the big one to have), but if you want full 81-95 support, you'll want to watch for a Mass Storage Cartridge. These usually sell on ebay for $50-$100. I don't have a spare at this time, otherwise it would be with it. Scott Pearson The Auto Shop www.theautoshop.net Phone: 563.886.2821 Fax: 563.886.6127

Let me know around that time... would love to see it... Of course, I would probably come down in my red/tan, which would be out of storage then.

>> A positive displacement supercharger provides a constant percentage flow increase across the entire RPM range unlike a centrifugal supercharger << Though, if one is keeping the old sensor setup, and with all that talk about 'maxing out MAF' and such -- in a sense -- didn't you just allude to the possibility of a centrifugal charger -- under the right conditions -- being a better option than switching the whole engine (to an SC Series I or II)? I mean, the old engine already uses the old sensors (of course), and a centrifugal charger can be setup (with appropriate pulley diameters and waste gate 'settings') to provide, say, maximum boost at lower RPM and less boost at higher RPM (is this not possible?). The greater boost at lower RPM should be less likely to 'max-out' the MAF, since the engine isn't spinning as fast (and thus shouldn't require the same sheer mass of air that it would at higher RPM). And, if the boost is dumped at higher RPM, again maxing the MAF should be less likely... I realize there are probably things I missing or overlooking, but not changing the engine (albeit, the drivetrain may be removed for 'beefing-up' and then re-installed) and keeping the sensor setup largely intact seems like an easier route... Of course, the mechanical difficulty of installing the 'jack-shaft' to drive the centrifugal charger would still be an issue...

>> ...Cam and 10.5:1 compression with appropriate mods to intake and exhaust would do it (supercharger will require premium gas anyway)...<< So, are you saying that one might as well just use 'old school' engine mods? The computers would not balk at this in some way?