Jump to content

hchris

Members
  • Content Count

    851
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by hchris

  1. Hi Tom

    As you have probably gathered theres not a lot of help to be gained at this site for us later model Maxwell owners,here it seems they were all magneto ignition to the end which I would guess was typical for the exports

    Here are some numbers passed on to me some years back, I cant verify the authenticity of them however they seem to work for those Maxwells around me here in Aus:

    1923 to 1924 388531 - 442331

    1924 to 1925 442331 - 492825

    1925 to end 492825 - 552534

    Chris H

  2. If I can make a small sidestep here - my Maxwell Vac tank has vacuum drawn from the oil pump, the advantage there is that if you run out of oil you will also run out of fuel, also it doesnt matter how many hills you climb or how wide open the throttle is the vacuum supply is always there. Forward thinking ?

    chris h

  3. So you have the link fitted between the throttle shaft and pump lever, when you open the throttle the pump lever is drawn down ?

    You have the spring fitted around the pump plunger shaft inside the carb so that it holds the plunger up when at rest ?

    You have the throttle/pump link in the hole furthest from the throttle shaft for longest stroke ?

    and when you open the throttle shaft there is no fuel squirting into the carb throat - have I got this right ?

  4. Did you put the 2 check balls back in the right place ?

    These allow fuel to be drawn into the accelerator pump on closing throttle and to be discharged on opening throttle

    Without them the accel.pump wont do its job, you could also have rolled the leather pump bucket when installing it

    I take it you cant see fuel being discharged into the carb throat when you operate the throttle linkage ?

  5. Great going - just remembered another trap, when you reassemble the apply links that go around the bands you will see a small approx.1 inch spacer which is part of the mechanism that puts pressure on the bands. I found this spacer wasnt exactly square - that is one side is slightly longer than the other, consequently when I came to slide the drums through the bands it woulndt go - took me ages to work out that turning the spacer 90 degrees eased the band apart so as the drum/s would slide into position thru the bands. Probably this wont make a lot of sense unless you have a trans dismantled in front of you, I might add that nowhere is this mentioned in the service manual.

    Just to finish I have run my trans on Dextron 111 trans fluid for over 15 years and have not encountered any problems.

    313

  6. By all means have a go they are a very simple trans to work on and anybody with basic mechanical knowledge and a good service manual should be able to strip and repair. Just a warning when you remove the valve body assembly do it with the trans upside down, that is work at it from the pan side up, reason being there are a couple of little ball check valves in the body and they will drop out if you have it other way up, you need to remember where they go when reassembling so take a photo or make a sketch as it comes apart.

    Good luck

  7. Can anybody help with the Neutral start safety switch used in the Powerflite auto trans circa mid 50s. Installed in my 1957 Australian built Chrysler Royal, based on the 53-55 Plymouth but using some of the 55-56 running gear. I have tried Bernbaum and a few other places over there without success and cant find them down under. They are different to Torqueflite switch

    Any help appreciated

    hchris

  8. Can anybody help with the Neutral start safety switch used in the Powerflite auto trans circa mid 50s. Installed in my 1957 Australian built Chrysler Royal, based on the 53-55 Plymouth but using some of the 55-56 running gear. I have tried Bernbaum and a few other places over there without success and cant find them down under. They are different to Torqueflite switch

    Any help appreciated

    hchris

  9. Thanks Bill I have been trying to find the sales order for my car (without success) which I am sure stated it as 1957 delivery,therefore a 1958 engine would make this record somewhat dubious. However as the introduction of a V8 powered Royal was a rushed decision I would not put too much faith in the integrity of these records.

    Thanks

    Chris H

  10. Hi Bill-W just to add another dimension to the 313, we used this engine down here for the locally produced Chrysler Royal 1957 - 1959; 1960 saw the introduction of the 318. What info, if any, can you shed on this family group ?

    My 313 engine number starts with LV, another titbit is that the original hand book, supplied with the car, specified engine capacity as 303ci and then a correction to 313ci was pasted over the top of it.

    Many thanks - Chris H

  11. Just to add a little more from down under, our Chrysler Royals ( 1957 - 1960 ) which were based on the US Plymouth P25 had Positive earth electrics for 6 Cylinder cars & Negative earth for V8 ( 313 Poly ) cars. How confusing has that turned out to be 50 years on.

  12. If I`ve got this right you have a pushrod that is 1" short of the rocker arm ?

    I would`nt be running the engine without further investigation, something missing somewhere & if so

    its`probably in the sump, could be you have also bent a pushrod which begs the question as to why

    313royal

  13. Have you tried priming the cylinders with fuel?

    Cant remember if the 19 has priming cups, if not remove the plugs

    & tip a thimble of fuel into each cylinder refit the plugs & see if

    it fires, you have enough compression there to make it run. If it

    kicks over then its back to sorting out the carb.

    Chris H

×
×
  • Create New...