hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. Just to add a little more from down under, our Chrysler Royals ( 1957 - 1960 ) which were based on the US Plymouth P25 had Positive earth electrics for 6 Cylinder cars & Negative earth for V8 ( 313 Poly ) cars. How confusing has that turned out to be 50 years on.


  2. If I`ve got this right you have a pushrod that is 1" short of the rocker arm ?

    I would`nt be running the engine without further investigation, something missing somewhere & if so

    its`probably in the sump, could be you have also bent a pushrod which begs the question as to why

    313royal


  3. Have you tried priming the cylinders with fuel?

    Cant remember if the 19 has priming cups, if not remove the plugs

    & tip a thimble of fuel into each cylinder refit the plugs & see if

    it fires, you have enough compression there to make it run. If it

    kicks over then its back to sorting out the carb.

    Chris H


  4. Yes well that number seems to fit the pattern, still wonder about their

    alphabet being short on letters though.

    Re documentation thats another story; back then Chrysler relied on a loose

    alliance of dealers to bring in and distribute their product with their blessing

    no structured corporation existed down here as we know it today. The sad part is

    to find records now is almost impossible, our only real guide is motor registration

    records that exist in each state and all they tell us is the numbers of vehicles

    registered by make. My problem is compounded by the fact that both my specimens

    were sitting in paddocks for many years before I got to them so any history is long gone.

    ch


  5. Thanks Bill, glad you added that last reply as I am in the Detroit range of

    numbers for CB which are stamped on right forward chassis rail, nothing at rear,

    engine number is on left front rail & repeated midway along left side rail.

    However I have remains of two CB`s which I am attempting to make into one

    and there is some contradiction of numbers between the the two, let me try & explain :

    No.1 has no engine nor Serial number tag, the chassis however is stamped with an engine number

    & what I presume is build number 6701292 plus a number 1753 immediately under it on right side.

    No.2 has Serial Number tag 6701242 on bulhead/firewall but absolutely nothing I can find on the chassis,have yet to have it sandblasted so something may yet be revealed.

    Any input out there ?


  6. I didnt think to make the connection with engine number, but you are correct

    chassis and engine number are the same in my case.

    Now that I see other makes shared the same practice it still leaves me puzzled

    as to why Chrysler lumped all those identities together

    Thanks for your input. ch


  7. Anyone shed some light on why my 34 CB Sedan Chassis is stamped CA24990

    It is stamped on the front left chassis rail 6 inches back from the bumper mount & midway on the left chassis rail side approximately in line with the door pillar

    I am curious as to why the long wheelbase CB chassis is prefixed with CA short wheelbase serial


  8. What its all about is compressing atmospheric pressure, so 6.5 times 14.7 psi equals ...........

    There are other variables; normal operating temps, throttle wide open etc. but as a rule of thumb just multiply atmospheric pressure by the stated compression ratio and look out for any large ( 15 - 20 psi ) variations between cylinders.

    Looks like yours is tired but sound.

    Chris H


  9. Definitely not a 34 Chrysler, the front guards were valance type for 34.Looking at the rear doors the bottom portion is relatively long so I would be going for the 120+ inch wheelbase. Screen & roofline look like 33 CO Chrysler but Grille & mascot seem more Plymouth 33, hood looks 33/34 Dodge. Noww you should be really confused !!


  10. Straight 8 has always been hard to cool at the back,some observations :

    1.tubes typically corrode around valve seat areas & there`s not much alternative but make up a hook out of rod & pull it out in bits & pieces ( ensure it all comes out )

    2.have heard of drilling thru back of block in line with tube & extracting from both ends ( engine out of course ) then fitting freeze plug after

    3.removing thermostat only adds to problem as coolant rushes thru radiator too quick not allowing heat dissipation

    4.run an external hose from heater outlet at back of block & make T piece to connect with inlet side of water pump, straight 8`s are known to percolate / airate coolant at back of block