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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 12 hours ago, rusty_apache said:

    32,000 original miles, has strong acceleration but has an irregular misfire at idle.
    I use the term misfire broadly. Spitting might be a better description, not a backfire.58EF2A75-9ED3-4225-8A50-AA10228A41A5.thumb.jpeg.f424e8fc2ad1f947e409f82f939139f5.jpeg

    It reaches 70 MPH easily, but once you level out with little load on the engine, it starts misfiring again. It only does this at idle and cruising at a constant speed, once you decelerate or accelerate slightly it stops. Adjusting the idle jet has little effect on the misfire.

     It has a new fuel tank, and a clean fuel system. I just installed new plugs and wires and cleaned the ignition points last month and today I set the float level down slightly and after almost 7 years the float bowl was still very clean inside, as well as the jets.

    the only other issue I have yet to address might be the hole in the original muffler.


    Checked your valve clearances  ?

    • Like 1
  2. 18 hours ago, WPVT said:

    Thanks. Mine doesn't have the harmonic balancer, just a pulley. Correct according to my parts book.

    As to your question of whether I was advancing or retarding the spark, as I recall, I turned the distributor counterclockwise quite a bit, and the rpm's kept rising. So I was advancing the spark. My apologies. Usually I check my posts more carefully, but in this instance I got my description backwards.

    Thanks for reading my post carefully. 


    Yeah the danger with too much advance is getting into the pinging zone. 

  3. 17 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

    OK from what we saw, it appears the plastic gear is broken as part of it went in the sump as we tried to fish it out. Didn’t know they had that sort of drive but makes sense. I will pass this on to the new owner who is a Valiant guy.

    many thanks to all!

    Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

    Yep that'll do it, one more thing to consider when sourcing the drive gear, there were 2 different distributors used here and you've guessed it, they had different size gears

  4. 15 hours ago, WPVT said:

    Just checked the timing. It's about 4-6 degrees advanced at idle.


    Just keep in mind if you're using the crank pulley timing marks, that the pulley has an inner rubber component (harmonic balancer), which goes soft with age resulting often with displaced timing marks, hence relying on timing marks can be problematic, additionally today's fuels are far removed from 1954, again the timing marks may not be as relevant as they were back then. 


    I much prefer Grimys' method of vacuum timing if you can find a suitable source for vacuum. As Grimy says, start at warm idle and move the distributor until you reach the highest reading (usually 18 - 20 inches ) then move back about 2 nches and lock down the distributor. Go for a drive and listen for any pinging, if it doesn't ping you're good.


    One thing I'm curious about is that you say that as you retarded the distributor the revs kept rising, usually this is what happens as you advance the distributor,  just wondering if you're turning the right direction  ?

  5. On 10/28/2020 at 2:51 PM, Graham Man said:

    Just curious if anybody knows?  Should you use some spark advance on a steep hill? for extra power?  (given you have a car with a manual spark advance).  I know most of the late 20s cars have mechanical spark advance in the distributer, so if it is free, that should work?



  6. On 10/16/2020 at 8:34 PM, Phillip Robinson said:

    Should i use grease on the head gasket, or Hylomar spray. This is a 1939 prefect side valve motor. The new gasket is a copper composite, copper either side. Any thoughts?


    Fit dry

  7. On 10/6/2020 at 9:27 AM, CassDB29 said:

    My dad and I are working on restoring his 29 DB 6. We're trying to remove the rear brake drums and not having much luck. We have a hub puller and have been tapping the drum with a 2x4 and a sledge and it is not coming loose. Any advice on removing the drums?



    Took me 3 days to shift my 34 Chrysler drums, same puller same advice as everyone else, patience is the key.

  8. 17 hours ago, ply33 said:

    Around 500 would seem typical for the era. Seems maok and I have the same number in mind.


    Ok, read the question again and realised the value was for crank over rather than running. I'm assuming we're measuring downstream of the throttle. 

  9. 16 hours ago, knowinghades63 said:

    I put the pump in a vice and pressed the lever by hand woth a meter on it. The vacuum climbed rapidly and dropped slowly well within testable limits but when it is mounted to the car and doesn’t have fuel lines hooked to it. So basically the only difference in the tests is what is powering the pump my hand versus the cam lobe and I get nothing pretty much. 


    And what about the fuel supply from the tank  ?


  10. So what about fuel supply from the tank ? Have you done anything to check for blockage between the tank and pump ?


    Also I'm curious as to how you're verifying 8lb output and 2lb of vacuum, normally these pumps would only be putting out around 3 - 4psi, 8psi is well beyond the float needle capability. 

  11. 5 hours ago, Tom400CFI said:

    O.K.   If that is "the fact"...then could you define it a bit more clearly?  What is the heat, soaking? And how is that pushing fuel out the discharge nozzles? 


    Did you read the link in Carbkings response? that pretty much explains it in a nutshell, that's the item re fuel leak from throttle shaft, commonly known as heat soak. Also more often than not it leads to the other condition of hard starting when hot.

  12. Sounds high up to me, possibly piston/gudgen pin ?


    If the noise decreases when you pull a plug wire that's indicative of lightening the load on a particular piston and subsequent noise reduction, also it might account for the now you hear it, now you dont symptom due to the piston/pin moving around.  


    Certainly doesn't sound like bearings or crank issues, perhaps you could start investigating by dropping the oil, put a stocking or something over the catch pan and see if there are any metal bits floating around. 

    • Like 1
  13. There's only one fuse in this era mounted, on the ammeter as you've found. At some point a fusible cutout was introduced on the lighting switch,  it's function was to break the circuitry if a short occurred and then reset. Might be a good place to start. 

  14. 7 hours ago, marbeton said:

    Thanks for the help, your information helped me a lot. The engine is already repaired and working again.
    Now I just have to watch the temperature. Don't know what the operating temperature of a cooled engine without a pump is?


    Same as most every other engine,  around the 180 mark is good. 

  15. 17 minutes ago, 53 New Yorker said:

    Hello Everyone,

     You've given me some easy things to look for...  And I will try to get through them, to see if it turns out being something easy and an "inexpensive fix" and will let you know how it goes.

     On the other hand,  with regard to the #6 valve not closing...  and perhaps a weak or broken spring,  or perhaps, it just needs to be adjusted properly... I looked at the engine, and I can see there is a sort of "wing nut" hidden behind the manifolds that holds the cover in place...  This looks like you have to be a very flexible contortionist to get in there and work on setting the valves behind the manifolds.  Can you really get in there, with tools and a gauge without taking the manifolds off ?


     Cheers, and thank you for all your incredibly useful feedback 

    Yes and yes; doable but difficult with the manifold (s) in the way.  You may well find better access by taking the wheel off on the manifold side and seeing if there's a removable inner guard panel, many vehicles of this period were fitted like this for that reason. Obviously safe jacking and supporting the car is paramount!!

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