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Everything posted by CaptainBristol

  1. ....your explanation was just the ticket. However, I do have two more questions: 1. were those roofs prone to leaking? 2. I'm assuming they were noisy. Were they? Thanks again, Mark in Alaska
  2. Hi, all, Here is a question that I'm sure someone here will be able to answer. Why did so many high end cars in the 20s and 30s have fabric (I'm assuming the fabric was canvas) roofs? Were those roofs leaky? I've seen a number of photos of cars from that era. The cars had what appeared to be solid steel roofs when seen from the side. However when seen from above the cars had significant stretches of fabric up there. How come? Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  3. In my 1950 with the 288 engine, I get about 15 MPG on the highway and less than 10 in city stop & go driving, alas!
  4. Owen All other lights (Headlights, tail lights, interior lights, brake lights, etc) work normally. However, the directional indicator on the dash does not work. I have not changed the flasher unit. I'm not even sure where it is! Thanks for your interest, Mark in Alaska
  5. All 4 of my turn signals suddenly quit working yesterday. Nothing unusual was going on with the car--I have been driving it almost daily with fine results. This is the 1st time this has happened to me. I am assuming there is a switch or relay that failed. Any ideas? Is there a simple part I can buy in an auto parts store to address this issue? Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  6. You continue to beat expectations, and the quality of your site, which started out very good, is moving toward the excellent. All the best, Mark in Alaska
  7. I have used 50-50 antifreeze/water mix in Alaska, where temperatures usually go down to -40 (and below) every winter, with no problems. All the best, Mark in Alaska
  8. Hi, all. I need to have my 1950 Packard moved from the Seattle area to the Boston Area. I can drop of the car at a transporter's yard in Washington, but need to have it delivered to a residential address in Massachusetts. Do any of you have any recommendations/advice? I am looking for info on which transporters provide good service and which to avoid, as well as anything(s) I can do to help assure a smooth trip. Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  9. My 1950 288 cu in engine had a couple of bad valves that resulted in poor compression in those cylinders. So I sprang for a valve job, which was rather costly because the head had never been off the engine and was the devil to remove. The car ran like a top (and gas mileage improved to more than 15 MPG on the highway) for several months. Then I started to smell fumes coming from the engine. Inspection revealed they were coming from the road draft tube, which is part of the oil cooling system. Turned out the rings were now shot in two cylinders, causing blow-by. Basically, by tightening up
  10. I left the headlights on in a parking lot awhile back and returned to a nearly-dead battery. Fortunately the car was situated on a VERY slight incline about 100 yards long. I just pushed her out, jumped in, and and let her coast with the ignition on. Popped the clutch in 1st and waited for the engine to catch. But nothing happened. It was as if I was still in neutral. I hit the brakes and pondered my situation. Then I remembered the overdrive. I Pulled the OD control all the way out and got her rolling again. Speed was probably no more than 3 MPH, but when I popped the clutch the 2nd
  11. I apologize in advance that this post is not exclusively Packard-related, but I think it has relevance to anyone who, like us, is interested in older cars. I was looking at buying a used car yesterday and liked pretty much everything about the vehicle except its smell. I believe a previous owner was a smoker and that he, and/or a succeeding owner, tried to mask the stale smoke smell with one of those nauseating deodorizers people dangle from the mirror. The deodorizer was gone and the ash trays were clean, but the smell(s) persisted nonetheless. The upshot is there are two stinks in the ca
  12. Can't help with the hub cap tabs question, but I can report I had my front shocks rebuilt two years ago by Apple Hydraulics and, while they weren't cheap, they did a good job. My car is a 1950, but I believe Apple can handle your shocks, as well. They sent me a set of rebuilt shocks and required that I give them a deposit that they refunded when they received my old shocks. I was happy to do things this way because it meant less time in the shop for the car and more time on the road! Here is a URL for them: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm All the best, Mark in Alaska
  13. I put the Packard through a car wash yesterday and got an interesting surprise when the air dry function pushed water past the weatherstripping on all four wing windows. I had water running down the insides of all four doors. See the attached photo for an idea of what I'm referring to--there are two triangular vent/wing windows on each side of the car. I think it would probably be a good idea to replace the weatherstripping, but wonder how difficult and costly the job would be. I see Kanter sells weatherstrip for these vent windows at $130 for the front doors and $143 for the rear doors.
  14. Does the term, "April Fools Day" ring any bells?
  15. I had the same problem with the radiator on my 1950 Standard Eight (which has the 288 cubic inch engine). To try to get an overheating problem under control, I had the cooling system backflushed and the water pump replaced. I still ended up losing a lot of coolant, which, of course, exacerbated overheating situation. Warm weather just made the problem worse. But when I replaced radiator cap the problems largely disappeared. Turned out the existing cap was not deep enough and did not pressurize the system. I still lose some coolant on days when the temperatures are in the 80s or higher, bu
  16. A couple of years ago SMS moved to much larger digs in Canby, Oregon, which is a Portland suburb. I visited the place last year and was amazed at the depth and breadth of the inventory. Here is their website: http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ All the best, Mark in Alaska
  17. I had good luck getting carpeting and upholstery from SMS Auto Fabrics, located in Canby Oregon. You can see more here: http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ All the best, Mark in Alaska
  18. Rick, you can get a better view of the brochure by downloading it directly from Kevin's website, here: http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/48%20Accessories.pdf My Don Sommer mirrors are attached to the trim strip by means of a bolt through the strip's underside. Hence the need to remove the strips. The bolt is then screwed in to the mirror's underside. There is no way I can simply screw the mirrors down onto anything. I have bought some inexpensive mirrors off eBay. These are the kind that screw down onto the leading edge of the door. The mirror on the driver's side works fine-
  19. Rick-- Looking at photos of Packards from the 1948-50 era, I see the side mirrors were intended to be mounted on the trim strip below the windows. I have attached a page from a 1948 accessories brochure I spotted on Big Kev's website that shows where the mirrors were supposed to go. In my humble opinion, this is exactly why it's in all our best interests to share this documentation. The side mirror on my car is currently mounted on the door and I can't see anything worth a damn from it. The Don Sommer side mirrors (which are allegedly made from the original designs) are built to be affixe
  20. Hello, all I need to remove the strip of stainless steel trim that runs just under the windows on the front doors of my 23rd Series Standard Eight. I want to do this so I can mount the side mirrors I got from Don Sommer. I have no idea how to get these trim pieces off safely; additionally, I have no idea how to get them back on after I affix the mirrors. I have attached a photo of my car, so you can see the trim strip I am referring to. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! All the best, Mark in Alaska
  21. I agree with MrPushbutton. I found out the hard way what happens when gas formulations change, causing the old gas tank sealant to disintegrate. In my case it happened in winter, when the gas formulation changed to one that included oxyfuel. I had bought my car in a warm part of California, where, I believe, they don't change the gas formulas in winter. But about 30 miles into a winter road trip in Washington State, the fuel lines got clogged. Of course, I had no idea why this was happening. I spent a fair amount of time, and more money than I want to admit, to get to the bottom of t
  22. Interesting report about a Packard collector. If you haven't already done so, you'll need to complete the Times' free registration form before the web site will let you read the story. http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/automobiles/collectibles/27PACKARD.html?8dpc All the best, Mark in Alaska
  23. Thanks for the ideas, guys. I'll do as Speedster and PackardV8 suggested. The car has a manual transmission, so no worries about the torque converter clutch.
  24. My '50 288 runs very well but with has one annoying problem: after it warms up it stalls at stop signs. A typical scenario has me cruising along a superhighway at 60+. Then I hit an offramp and slow to a stop at the sign. Almost invariablly, she stalls. I don't think it's vapor lock, because this happens regardless of whether I am running my auxiliary electric fuel pump. Also, it happens when the ambient temperature is cold, cool, or warm. Finally, the engine is not showing any signs of overheating. The engine runs well at idle when she's warming up and (mostly) when I'm driving in c
  25. You guys are breaking my heart. Here in my part of Alaska it hasn't hit 60 degrees in the past 10 days and the rain has been drenching us that long, too. We got 1.3 inches on Friday alone. There has been so much runoff all the ocean bays are murky with silt. Can you send some of that heat & sunshine this way? Even the salmon must be ready for a break in this dreary weather. All the best, Mark in Wetville
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