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About CaptainBristol

  • Birthday 11/14/1950

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  1. ....your explanation was just the ticket. However, I do have two more questions: 1. were those roofs prone to leaking? 2. I'm assuming they were noisy. Were they? Thanks again, Mark in Alaska
  2. Hi, all, Here is a question that I'm sure someone here will be able to answer. Why did so many high end cars in the 20s and 30s have fabric (I'm assuming the fabric was canvas) roofs? Were those roofs leaky? I've seen a number of photos of cars from that era. The cars had what appeared to be solid steel roofs when seen from the side. However when seen from above the cars had significant stretches of fabric up there. How come? Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  3. In my 1950 with the 288 engine, I get about 15 MPG on the highway and less than 10 in city stop & go driving, alas!
  4. Owen All other lights (Headlights, tail lights, interior lights, brake lights, etc) work normally. However, the directional indicator on the dash does not work. I have not changed the flasher unit. I'm not even sure where it is! Thanks for your interest, Mark in Alaska
  5. All 4 of my turn signals suddenly quit working yesterday. Nothing unusual was going on with the car--I have been driving it almost daily with fine results. This is the 1st time this has happened to me. I am assuming there is a switch or relay that failed. Any ideas? Is there a simple part I can buy in an auto parts store to address this issue? Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  6. You continue to beat expectations, and the quality of your site, which started out very good, is moving toward the excellent. All the best, Mark in Alaska
  7. I have used 50-50 antifreeze/water mix in Alaska, where temperatures usually go down to -40 (and below) every winter, with no problems. All the best, Mark in Alaska
  8. Hi, all. I need to have my 1950 Packard moved from the Seattle area to the Boston Area. I can drop of the car at a transporter's yard in Washington, but need to have it delivered to a residential address in Massachusetts. Do any of you have any recommendations/advice? I am looking for info on which transporters provide good service and which to avoid, as well as anything(s) I can do to help assure a smooth trip. Thanks much, Mark in Alaska
  9. My 1950 288 cu in engine had a couple of bad valves that resulted in poor compression in those cylinders. So I sprang for a valve job, which was rather costly because the head had never been off the engine and was the devil to remove. The car ran like a top (and gas mileage improved to more than 15 MPG on the highway) for several months. Then I started to smell fumes coming from the engine. Inspection revealed they were coming from the road draft tube, which is part of the oil cooling system. Turned out the rings were now shot in two cylinders, causing blow-by. Basically, by tightening up the pressure on the top end, I over stressed the bottom end. So now I am back to getting the same gas mileage I was before the valve job AND I am looking at a major engine rebuild that will replace bearings, pistons, rings, etc. My advice: if it ain't terribly broke, don't fix it. All the best, Mark in Alaska
  10. I left the headlights on in a parking lot awhile back and returned to a nearly-dead battery. Fortunately the car was situated on a VERY slight incline about 100 yards long. I just pushed her out, jumped in, and and let her coast with the ignition on. Popped the clutch in 1st and waited for the engine to catch. But nothing happened. It was as if I was still in neutral. I hit the brakes and pondered my situation. Then I remembered the overdrive. I Pulled the OD control all the way out and got her rolling again. Speed was probably no more than 3 MPH, but when I popped the clutch the 2nd time she caught and vroomed to life. The 3-mile drive back to my place put a reasonable charge on the battery and I haven't had a problem with it since. Of course, I now remember to turn off the lights!
  11. I apologize in advance that this post is not exclusively Packard-related, but I think it has relevance to anyone who, like us, is interested in older cars. I was looking at buying a used car yesterday and liked pretty much everything about the vehicle except its smell. I believe a previous owner was a smoker and that he, and/or a succeeding owner, tried to mask the stale smoke smell with one of those nauseating deodorizers people dangle from the mirror. The deodorizer was gone and the ash trays were clean, but the smell(s) persisted nonetheless. The upshot is there are two stinks in the car that compete to irritate my nose. The car has leather seats & door panels, so I'm assuming the smells are lodged in the carpets and headliner. My question is, will this stink naturally dissipate over time, or do I need to take some serious action? Or, should I just forget about buying the car and look for one that doesn't offend my nose? All the best, Mark in Alaska
  12. Can't help with the hub cap tabs question, but I can report I had my front shocks rebuilt two years ago by Apple Hydraulics and, while they weren't cheap, they did a good job. My car is a 1950, but I believe Apple can handle your shocks, as well. They sent me a set of rebuilt shocks and required that I give them a deposit that they refunded when they received my old shocks. I was happy to do things this way because it meant less time in the shop for the car and more time on the road! Here is a URL for them: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm All the best, Mark in Alaska
  13. I put the Packard through a car wash yesterday and got an interesting surprise when the air dry function pushed water past the weatherstripping on all four wing windows. I had water running down the insides of all four doors. See the attached photo for an idea of what I'm referring to--there are two triangular vent/wing windows on each side of the car. I think it would probably be a good idea to replace the weatherstripping, but wonder how difficult and costly the job would be. I see Kanter sells weatherstrip for these vent windows at $130 for the front doors and $143 for the rear doors. Has anyone used this particular rubber? I'm curious as to its quality--seems like a high price for a few linear feet of weatherstrip. If you do get new rubber, is it a big deal to replace the old stuff, or can the average guy do it? Thanks, Mark in Alaska
  14. Does the term, "April Fools Day" ring any bells?
  15. I had the same problem with the radiator on my 1950 Standard Eight (which has the 288 cubic inch engine). To try to get an overheating problem under control, I had the cooling system backflushed and the water pump replaced. I still ended up losing a lot of coolant, which, of course, exacerbated overheating situation. Warm weather just made the problem worse. But when I replaced radiator cap the problems largely disappeared. Turned out the existing cap was not deep enough and did not pressurize the system. I still lose some coolant on days when the temperatures are in the 80s or higher, but thankfully, those days are rare for me! All the best, Mark in Alaska
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