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Barneys_Bud

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  1. Good to know about the Nail Head. I was reading some place that it had something to do with the size of the valves being very small. Anyway thanks for the information. I shall look for the mirror picture. Right now the gasket for the mirror seems to be the issue. I am told that the ones for 67 have a round side to match the contour of the body while the earlier ones are basically flat on the bottom. The flat ones are easy to find while the round ones are tough to come by.
  2. Having just purchased a 67 Skylark from it's original owner I am going about the process of getting it ready for next years touring season. One thing it was lacking is a mirror on the passenger side. I was able to locate a mirror but am having trouble finding the gasket to go under neath it. My understanding is that it requires a gasket that is rounded on the side that meets the sheet metal. Flat gaskets abound however if I wish to buy a rounded one the is another problem. I did find one but the price was bordering on the ridiculous. It would help if some one could provide me with a pa
  3. I was on an old car tour with a fellow who had a very nice 56 Buick. Halfway through the trip he began to have drivability issues with his car. Fearing major problems he pulled into a Less Schwab store. An inspection reveled that his Vintiqes wheels were coming apart. More specifically the spokes were breaking! This was an issue on all four of his wheels. The upshot of all this was that chroming spokes is a tricky business. If not done correctly they can make the spokes very brittle and prone to breaking. I would worry more about that aspect that the maintenance issues.
  4. Looking for a nice set of 14 X 6 Rally wheels to dress up our little Skylark.
  5. I did not know there was a "Judging Manual". I would like to see that since it may contain a great deal of the information I am looking for. Anyone know where I can find one ?
  6. Just bought a set of Torque thrust 15 X 7 wheels thinking I would put them on our newly acquired 67 Skylark. After a lot of polishing and fussing around I decided to do a fitment check. The front would be ok however they are too wide and have too shallow of a back space for the rear. My Bad! The car does have skirts on it. Can anyone tell me what wheels (other than the hub cap) will fit on it. I would like to keep a stock appearance since I just purchased it from it's original owner. This ride is amazing since it spent most of it's life in a garage.
  7. I just picked up a 67 Skylark from it's original owner. The book says that the tire should be 7.75 X 14 however this car has a 205 75R 14. These tires are available from Good Year and a number of other manufacturers. When you go to the tire tables you will find that these tires have an outside diameter of about 26 inches plus or minus 2 to 3 tenths. This is important if you want your speedometer to rest correctly. I believe the 205 75R 14 is probably close to correct since the speedometer reads correctly. That is my story and I am sticking to it.
  8. Step one is to get a schematic. Can't get there without a road map. The fact that your tubes don't light up is very telling. I would have to look at the one for my Buick but these old drawings are available. I can email you a copy if you cannot find one. I came across a service manual for my radio. Once you have it you can trace the +6 volts through it and see what is going on. Step two would be to find some one with a tube checker. I would guess that one or more of the tubes are gassy (they have leaked air inside and that is very common). Check the Vibrator, if it is not humming the
  9. If you get a repo copy of the service manual they should (mine for the 41 does) have a gear ratio chart that shows the different gear sets and the engine RPM at different speeds. You need to remember that when these cars were built the highest speed limit you would encounter was 45 mph. This would be on a good day with an exceptional road. So when they built the cars they made them to curse with at around 45 mph. In fact if you look at some of the older speedometers they are labeled red at that point. 4:10 and higher (numerically) were very common in older Buicks. Mine came with a 4:10
  10. A popular reseller is Painless Wiring. You might look and see of you have a fuse block. If you do then it most likely been replaced. I know on my 41 the fuses were an odd size and located some where in line on the wire. You are much better off to have a central fuse pint. Not original but much better.
  11. OK by the numbers. You have got compression so you can check that off. You say you have plenty of fuel so we can mark that off. So let's concentrate on the spark. Remove a plug and connect to to the spark plug wire. Clamp that plug to a ground so you can see the gap. Does it generate a spark that you can see when you crank the engine over? If no then you need to look at your ignition module or points / condenser or your coil. Make sure that you are getting power to the ignition system (bad ignition switch or blown fuse or fuseable link). If you so have a spark then it is probably t
  12. I would not recommend it. Simply because the electrical system on your Buick is not very clean. By that I mean that between the Generator brushes and the points in the Regulator you generate a tremendous amount of electrical noise and transients. These spikes can present a real problem to anything with solid state components in it. Many have converted and have not had any problems however there are just as many that have had their ignition suddenly die. If you do make the conversion I would strongly recommend keeping the points and condenser handy. The short version is that Points wi
  13. I could write a whole page on removing the Spedo. Needless to say that it is not fun. I am not sure that you can without removing the dash. Then there is all the wires and bulbs that need to find a home once you are finished. My Speedometer had a problem where the needle ran aground at about 55 MPH. It turned out that the plastic piece that had the numbers engraved in it had lifted and was interfering with the needle travel. I made the mistake of using super glue on it once I came up with a way to clamp it in place. The problem with super glue is that it gives off vapors that fog the th
  14. Next time a little less torque and maybe a washer or two. It's a major deal to get that pan off my 41.
  15. Several ways to do that. You can interrupt the Positive side or if the ground wire is easier to access, you can interrupt that one. On our Franklin the ground side is interrupted and the switch is mounted under the floorboard. You stick the red switch key through a small hole in the carpet and activate the switch. When you remove the key it acts like a theft/fire deterrent. I have also seen the line to the starter (the heavy gage wire) interrupted with a switch. A popular way is to put a battery post switch on but that is not practical in your application.
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