Len Sholes

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About Len Sholes

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  • Birthday 10/31/1942

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  1. Update on my cylinder head problem. I do not have the casting number with me at home it is at the shop, however I have found a fellow who is going to plug the hole that is in the wrong location and redrill it in the correct location. He assures me that it will work. This particular head has the the rheostat housing bolted onto the side of the head.
  2. After a lot of research on my problem it appears that this engine has the wrong head on it. I have located an aluminium one but apparently the spark plugs are seized in it and I think it would be a big gamble to try and remove them and replace the threads for the plugs. In my opinion the cast iron head is a better head. I still am wondering if anyone else has run across this problem. Like I stated in my original post the only way that I can see to solve the problem is to stich up the misaligned hole in the head and redrill it in the correct location. Any comments on this matter would be appreciated.
  3. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a problem I have come across on a friends car that I am working on. He had a mechanic install a new head gasket but the engine was never started. I filled the rad with coolant and found that my level kept dropping and found that the oil level was rising, I pulled the plugs and found that I had coolant coming out of the number eight hole. I removed the head and found that the head gasket was correct for the ports in the block but when I tried it on the head there was on passageway that the alignment would allow the coolant to leak into the cylinder. According to the gasket supplier he supplied the correct gasket. I never saw the old head gasket so do not know if it had been modified. I do know that the engine ran good before the head was removed. The only way that I can see to correct this problem is to plug the misaligned cooling hole in the head and re drill it in the correct location. Has anyone run across this before or do I have the wrong cylinder head for this engine? Any help on this would be appreciated.. .
  4. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a problem that a friend of mine is having with his car. When you start it up gas will leak out of one of the carburetors sometimes. If you tap it it stops leaking and all is ok. I took the rear carburetor apart and could not find any signs of what would cause the needle to stick and ther float level was correct. When I went to start up the engine it leaked, I tapped it and no more leaks. A few days later when I started the engine it was the front carb that leaked. I talked to the previous owner and he tells me that it did this when he owned the car and all he did was turn on the electic fuel pump and check to see if either one of the carbs was leaking and if so he would just tap it on he would not have any more problems that day. He also told me that he had had the two carbs rebuilt and it did not make any difference. He also tells me that he was told that Hudson published a bulletin on this problem and how to correct it but he has no other details. I have checked on the web to see if I could find this information but have had no luck. I am wondering if anyone knows what the cure is for this problem. The new owner of this vehicle is looking for me to cure the problem as like he says it is not acceptable the way it is now. My thoughts are if some one already has come up with a cure it sure would save me a lot of time and frustation in trying to solve it. Also on the plumbing of the fuel lines to the carburetors the main feed line from the mechanical fuel pump goes to a fuel filter assembly which is connected to a vaccuum line to the intake manifold. The discharge line is Teed and plumbed to the two carburetors. What is the purpose of the vaccuum line? Thanks for any help I can get on this. Len
  5. Thanks for the response to my question. No it is not a fuel delivery problem as I checked to see if the fuel pump was working and yes it was. I also have checked and find that gas is been sprayed into the intake when I pump the gas pedal. Even when I pour gas down the carb it will still not start. It is only after you let the engine sit for approximately 10 minutes and then you try to start it and it will fire right up but only stay runing for a few seconds. One thing that I did not mention is that there is no suction on your hand when you hold it over the carb and crank the engine over. To my way of thinking this is due to the low compression that the engine has. I have to think that the rings are stuck as the compression went up when I squirted oil into the cylinders. If it was due to bad valves then there should not have been an increase. I am going to try what Frairtuck suggested and that is try SeaFoam. I see that they have a spray avialable which I could spray into each cylinder. I have used this product by adding it to the gas tank and to the engine oil and have been amazed on how well it works.
  6. I am trying to help a friend get the engine started on his 1948 Cadillac. A bit of history is that approximately 6 weeks ago he took the car for a a 10 mile run and parked it in undercover storage. Now he tried to start it and it will not fire up. He asked if I could give him a hand and «i have done the following - checked points, cleaned and adjusted, checked spark at the plugs and have spark, madek sure that gas was getting to the clylinders by pouring gas down the carb and all it will do is fire up for a couple of seconds and then no sign of even trying to start. Let is sit for approsomately 5 minutes and try again and it is the sme thing over again. When I stuck my finger over the plug holes and had him crank it over I had hardly any compression. Checking it with a compression gauge I had readings of any where from 30 to 40 psi. I pumped some oil into a cylinder and now I had 100 psi. So it is appears to me the rings are the problem. I have squirted WD40 into each cylinder as well as engine oil to see if I can get them to free up so the compression will increase but to no avail.I am wondering if anyone has had this problem and come up with a cure other than pulling the engine apart. This car has been running fine up to this time.
  7. I am using Shell Rotella 10/30 oil.
  8. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a noise that is in the engine of this car at an idle. The engine has been completely rebuilt and once started at an idle it has a popping sound coming from the engine breather. If I take the breather off and put my hand over the filler tube the noise goes away. I thought it was a fuel pump problem so I changed the fuel pump with one from an engine of the same vintage that does not make this noise. At the time of installation I put a gob of grease on the actuating arm. Upon startup the noise was gone but within a few minutes of running it came back. The only connection between the fuel pump and the engine is the lobe on the front onf the camshaft. My thought is that there is a problem with this lobe and actuating arm. Almost like there is to much clearance as once the grease wore off the noise started. However this morning I was talking with a friend who has a 1957 Olds and he tells me his engine has the same nosie at an idle. I am wondering if anyone has come up with a explantion as to what is causing the noise and how to cure it.
  9. With regards to your question about what is a brake line wrench it is like a box end one that has a slot in it so it can be slipped over the line giving you a better grip on the brake line fitting. Even with this wrench you can run into problems with it slipping on the nut. When this happens you have no choice but to use vise grips and if you are lucky and you do not damage the nut, If you do then you will need to either purchase a new brake line or make up a new one. There is nothing easy in the old car hobby. If you get a good quallity brake spring plier then it can be used for removing the springs and reinstalling them. The two clips that hold the shoes to the backing plates can be removed using a pair of pliers. There is a tool you can purchase for this job. If you end up removing the rear brake drums you will need a puller to pull the drums. As it sounds to me you do not have much expierence working on this sort of job and am wondering if you have tried to contact anyone in your area who is envolved in a local car club. I am sure if you do you will be able to find someone who could either give you a name of a shop that could do the job for you or an individual who could assist you. It is unfortunate that the fellow you found on the net didn`t know what he was doing. Brakes are one of the basic things you are taught when a person starts his apprenticeship. once again good luck to you.
  10. Another bit of advise for you would be to remove all the brake drums and check all the wheel cylinders. My expierence has been if you have one that is giving you problems the others will also be contaminated and are not working efficiently. I would also reccommend to replace all three flex lines. That is the two that go to the front wheel cylinders and the one that is by the rear end. You should also remove the master cylinder and check it out. You might be lucky enough to only having to clean it, hone it out and install a new rebuild kit. At this time make sure you flush out the steel brake lines. Be carefull when doing this as you do not want to get brake fluid on your paint as it works like paint remover. To me brakes are one of the most important parts of a car and any money spent is well spent. Not only are you protecting your self but also other innocent people and their vehicles on the highway. Good luck to you.
  11. I thought I should give you an update on the engine lifter noise that I was looking for help on. I would like to thank those who responded to my post about my problem. I have finally solved the problem and you will not believe what I found causing it. After checking items that were suggested I even went as far as removing the oil pump and checking it out to see if the 15 psi oil pressure I had at an idle might be causing it. I could not find anything wrong with it so it was reinstalled. As I mentioned in my origianl post I checked all the pushrods on the LH side of the engine with the excepption of the #8 exhaust one as I could not remove it due to the bulge in the firewall on the car. Anyhow with the engine running I found that if I applied side pressure to the #8 push rod the noise would subside. In desperation I drilled a small hole in the bulge and removed the push rod and I found it to be bent. There were signs on it where it had been rubbing against the bore in the head, I installed a new pushrod and started the engine a quess what the nosie was gone and the problem solved. My theory is that as the lifter and push rod rotated it wouul hang up due to being bent and then as it finally got past the bent part the noise would go away.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> I thought I should give you an update on the engine lifter noise that I was looking for help on. I would like to thank those who responded to my post about my problem. I have finally solved the problem and you will not believe what I found causing it. After checking items that were suggested I even went as far as removing the oil pump and checking it out to see if the 15 psi oil pressure I had at an idle might be causing it. I could not find anything wrong with it so it was reinstalled. As I mentioned in my origianl post I checked all the pushrods on the LH side of the engine with the excepption of the #8 exhaust one as I could not remove it due to the bulge in the firewall on the car. Anyhow with the engine running I found that if I applied side pressure to the #8 push rod the noise would subside. In desperation I drilled a small hole in the bulge and removed the push rod and I found it to be bent. There were signs on it where it had been rubbing against the bore in the head, I installed a new pushrod and started the engine a quess what the nosie was gone and the problem solved. My theory is that as the lifter and push rod rotated it wouul hang up due to being bent and then as it finally got past the bent part the noise would go away.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  12. I thought I should give you an update on the engine lifter noise that I was looking for help on. I would like to thank those who responded to my post about my problem. I have finally solved the problem and you will not believe what I found causing it. After checking items that were suggested I even went as far as removing the oil pump and checking it out to see if the 15 psi oil pressure I had at an idle might be causing it. I could not find anything wrong with it so it was reinstalled. As I mentioned in my origianl post I checked all the pushrods on the LH side of the engine with the excepption of the #8 exhaust one as I could not remove it due to the bulge in the firewall on the car. Anyhow with the engine running I found that if I applied side pressure to the #8 push rod the noise would subside. In desperation I drilled a small hole in the bulge and removed the push rod and I found it to be bent. There were signs on it where it had been rubbing against the bore in the head, I installed a new pushrod and started the engine a quess what the nosie was gone and the problem solved. My theory is that as the lifter and push rod rotated it wouul hang up due to being bent and then as it finally got past the bent part the noise would go away.
  13. 1957 Buick Engine Lifter Noise<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am hoping some one can help me with a problem I am having trying to solve a noisy lifter problem on s 364 cu in engine. The engine was over hauled by an engine shop and I installed it back into the vehicle. After starting it up it had a noisy lifter. After running it for a while the noise would come and go. The engine shop suggested to put some miles on the engine and to add an additive to the oil. This was done and it helped some what, The noise comes and goes. It will be noisy for approximately 40 seconds and then it is quiet for approximately 30 seconds. It doesn`t change as the engine warms up. The suspect lifter is the #8 exhaust. I removed the rocker arm assembly and removed #8 lifters and dismantled them and inspected for contamination. Could not find any sign of debries. I reassembled them and swapped them with the #2 lifters and reinstalled the rocker arm. Started up engine and the noise is still at #8. I then swapped the rocker arm assemblies and no change. Checked engine oil pressure with a calibrated gauge and find that with hot oil I have 15 psi at a low idle. I then marked one of the # 2 liters to observe it with the engine running to see if it was rotating. What I found was yes it is but as soon as the lifter noise starts the rotation slows down. The rebuild shop installed new lifters at time of rebuild. It almost appears to be a oil pressure problem but I can not prove it with any of the testing I have done. I am wondering if anyone else has run across this problem and could shed some light on what I need to do to eliminate the noise.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> I posted the above on the Technical Site and one reply was that maybe I should post it on this site. Another question I have is can anyone tell me what the camshaft end play specification is. In the repair manual that I have it tells you that the end play is controlled by a spacing ring that is located between the camshaft front bearing journal and the thrust plate that is attached to the block behind the camshaft sprocket. This spacer is to provide the correct end play on the camshaft once the sprocket is torqued to spec. I have at least a 1/4 inch end play on the cam. Is it possible that this could be my problem. I don't think the cam is moving back and forth when the engine is running as wouldn't the distributor drive keep the cam in position. I did not recondition the engine myself but hopefully the person who did installed the cam spacer. Any input on this would be appreciated.
  14. If all you want to do is to remove the exisiting differential assembly and to replace with another complete one it is not that big of a job. Block up rear of car, disconnect the shock absorbers, remove spring shackles, you will need a spring spreader, disconnect brake rods, and disconnect the coupling at the back of the transmassion and roll the complete unit out from under the car. If you are wanting to change the crown and pinion then you will need to do the above and then dissamble the rear axel assembly. I would reccommend that you purchase one of the many Model A manuals that are avialable as they give all the information needed on dismantling the axel assembly, replacing the bearings and how to set up the assembly. Good Luck
  15. I was at Harrahs auction that was held on September 27, 1985 and the addmission price was $6.50. At this time I purchased a book called Harrah`s Automobile Collection written by Dean Batchelor which he signed for me. Unfortunatley I can not locate my list of cars with selling prices, that were sold but I do remember that a Duesenberg Roadster sold for $1,000,000.00 and I am sure the new owner was Tom Monaghan, who at that time, owned the Detroit Tigers and Dominos Pizza. At that time this was the most anyone had paid for a Duesy. As the bidding got close to the end the whole crowd quietened down and when the gavel came down and the auctioneer said SOLD SOLD SOLD the whole place cheered and clapped. I have since visited the new museum in downtown Reno a couple of times and think it is great.