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Len Sholes

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About Len Sholes

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  • Birthday 10/31/1942

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  1. Update on my cylinder head problem. I do not have the casting number with me at home it is at the shop, however I have found a fellow who is going to plug the hole that is in the wrong location and redrill it in the correct location. He assures me that it will work. This particular head has the the rheostat housing bolted onto the side of the head.
  2. After a lot of research on my problem it appears that this engine has the wrong head on it. I have located an aluminium one but apparently the spark plugs are seized in it and I think it would be a big gamble to try and remove them and replace the threads for the plugs. In my opinion the cast iron head is a better head. I still am wondering if anyone else has run across this problem. Like I stated in my original post the only way that I can see to solve the problem is to stich up the misaligned hole in the head and redrill it in the correct location. Any comments on this matter would be apprec
  3. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a problem I have come across on a friends car that I am working on. He had a mechanic install a new head gasket but the engine was never started. I filled the rad with coolant and found that my level kept dropping and found that the oil level was rising, I pulled the plugs and found that I had coolant coming out of the number eight hole. I removed the head and found that the head gasket was correct for the ports in the block but when I tried it on the head there was on passageway that the alignment would allow the coolant to leak into the cylinder. Acc
  4. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a problem that a friend of mine is having with his car. When you start it up gas will leak out of one of the carburetors sometimes. If you tap it it stops leaking and all is ok. I took the rear carburetor apart and could not find any signs of what would cause the needle to stick and ther float level was correct. When I went to start up the engine it leaked, I tapped it and no more leaks. A few days later when I started the engine it was the front carb that leaked. I talked to the previous owner and he tells me that it did this when he owned the car and
  5. Thanks for the response to my question. No it is not a fuel delivery problem as I checked to see if the fuel pump was working and yes it was. I also have checked and find that gas is been sprayed into the intake when I pump the gas pedal. Even when I pour gas down the carb it will still not start. It is only after you let the engine sit for approximately 10 minutes and then you try to start it and it will fire right up but only stay runing for a few seconds. One thing that I did not mention is that there is no suction on your hand when you hold it over the carb and crank the engine over. To my
  6. I am trying to help a friend get the engine started on his 1948 Cadillac. A bit of history is that approximately 6 weeks ago he took the car for a a 10 mile run and parked it in undercover storage. Now he tried to start it and it will not fire up. He asked if I could give him a hand and «i have done the following - checked points, cleaned and adjusted, checked spark at the plugs and have spark, madek sure that gas was getting to the clylinders by pouring gas down the carb and all it will do is fire up for a couple of seconds and then no sign of even trying to start. Let is sit for approsomat
  7. I am wondering if anyone can help me with a noise that is in the engine of this car at an idle. The engine has been completely rebuilt and once started at an idle it has a popping sound coming from the engine breather. If I take the breather off and put my hand over the filler tube the noise goes away. I thought it was a fuel pump problem so I changed the fuel pump with one from an engine of the same vintage that does not make this noise. At the time of installation I put a gob of grease on the actuating arm. Upon startup the noise was gone but within a few minutes of running it came back. The
  8. With regards to your question about what is a brake line wrench it is like a box end one that has a slot in it so it can be slipped over the line giving you a better grip on the brake line fitting. Even with this wrench you can run into problems with it slipping on the nut. When this happens you have no choice but to use vise grips and if you are lucky and you do not damage the nut, If you do then you will need to either purchase a new brake line or make up a new one. There is nothing easy in the old car hobby. If you get a good quallity brake spring plier then it can be used for removing the
  9. Another bit of advise for you would be to remove all the brake drums and check all the wheel cylinders. My expierence has been if you have one that is giving you problems the others will also be contaminated and are not working efficiently. I would also reccommend to replace all three flex lines. That is the two that go to the front wheel cylinders and the one that is by the rear end. You should also remove the master cylinder and check it out. You might be lucky enough to only having to clean it, hone it out and install a new rebuild kit. At this time make sure you flush out the steel brake l
  10. I thought I should give you an update on the engine lifter noise that I was looking for help on. I would like to thank those who responded to my post about my problem. I have finally solved the problem and you will not believe what I found causing it. After checking items that were suggested I even went as far as removing the oil pump and checking it out to see if the 15 psi oil pressure I had at an idle might be causing it. I could not find anything wrong with it so it was reinstalled. As I mentioned in my origianl post I checked all the pushrods on the LH side of the engine with the exceppti
  11. I thought I should give you an update on the engine lifter noise that I was looking for help on. I would like to thank those who responded to my post about my problem. I have finally solved the problem and you will not believe what I found causing it. After checking items that were suggested I even went as far as removing the oil pump and checking it out to see if the 15 psi oil pressure I had at an idle might be causing it. I could not find anything wrong with it so it was reinstalled. As I mentioned in my origianl post I checked all the pushrods on the LH side of the engine with the exceppti
  12. 1957 Buick Engine Lifter Noise<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am hoping some one can help me with a problem I am having trying to solve a noisy lifter problem on s 364 cu in engine. The engine was over hauled by an engine shop and I installed it back into the vehicle. After starting it up it had a noisy lifter. After running it for a while the noise would come and go. The engine shop suggested to put some miles on the engine and to add an additive to the oil. This was done and it helped some what, The noise comes and goes. It will
  13. If all you want to do is to remove the exisiting differential assembly and to replace with another complete one it is not that big of a job. Block up rear of car, disconnect the shock absorbers, remove spring shackles, you will need a spring spreader, disconnect brake rods, and disconnect the coupling at the back of the transmassion and roll the complete unit out from under the car. If you are wanting to change the crown and pinion then you will need to do the above and then dissamble the rear axel assembly. I would reccommend that you purchase one of the many Model A manuals that are avialabl
  14. I was at Harrahs auction that was held on September 27, 1985 and the addmission price was $6.50. At this time I purchased a book called Harrah`s Automobile Collection written by Dean Batchelor which he signed for me. Unfortunatley I can not locate my list of cars with selling prices, that were sold but I do remember that a Duesenberg Roadster sold for $1,000,000.00 and I am sure the new owner was Tom Monaghan, who at that time, owned the Detroit Tigers and Dominos Pizza. At that time this was the most anyone had paid for a Duesy. As the bidding got close to the end the whole crowd quietened do
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