Hemi Dude

"that's almost a rebuilt engine " Well, really just the top end. We own 2 of these 3.0L vehicles. My 85 Voyager has a 3.0L that I installed years ago, replacing a 2.6L four cylinder. They are great engines after you have the valve guides taken care of. Be very sure to keep the cooling system 'rust free' and the engine will run well into 300,000 miles. The other is in the wife's 94 Dodge Shadow.

Yep, the nut was about to fall off. The car had apparently struck something which required the replacement of the lower control arms and struts. Someone had forgotten to tighten that nut. I did after taking the picture. It went on as far as the nut on the right side.

I must say, in all the years I worked in Chrysler Dealers, I never came across a 3.0L which was at a point of a "much needed valve job." There have been plenty, gobs and gobs, in need of the valve guides replaced (exhaust guides primarily) because of excessive oil smoke at idle and on acceleration from a stop in traffic. Is this what you are referring to? So what else you ask? Consider of course the timing belt, the water pump, by-pass hose and the crossover tube below the intake manifold and the short extension that extends out to the radiator hose. While you have it torn down that far, you may want to replace the front crankshaft seal. Check the oil pressure sending unit for oil leaks and have a good look at all 3 engine/trans mounts. There may be core plugs that you can reach more easily that need replacement. Check both the block and the 2 heads. This should get you started. I am in AZ so help with a shop in not something I can help with. This is a good time to deal with the A/C since the compressor has to be accessed and moved out of the way while doing the work on the heads.

I agree with you. I use to live in Jersey, in River Edge. Worked at several Chrysler product dealers back in the 60s. I know what cold is and the joy of working under a car on the lift as the ice and snow thaws. It's so much better for the cars too. You can look under a 30 year old car and see absolutely NO rust. That is a real benefit. Yes, it does have a loose nut! This is an 89 TC.

Those are the benefits of New Jersey, but it hardly ever gets over 100 degrees there. It was a beautiful sunny 90 degrees here in AZ today, but we must suffer with temps as high as 126 degrees here in the summer. WE JUST LOVE IT...

You must mean this one TwinCamFan. It just happens to be my 1985 Plymouth Voyager.

I agree with Reaper, it should not change the camber setting which is the only adjustment that can be made other than toe in/out.

You could replace the strut that is mounted to the subframe / transaxle with an adjustable "Dog Bone" type. This will hold the engine steady under hard acceleration. Frankly, you really don't need the others.

I have attended many times while living in CA. Even after moving to AZ, I have attended. Unfortunately, this year the Spring Fling falls on the same weekend as my marriage anniversary, so I will not be attending the Spring Fling this year. They also have a Fall Fling which is usually around the 3rd weekend in October. I may attend that one this year.

It would appear that you possibly pulled the drive axle out beyond the sealing surface, which is only about 1/2 inch. When you finished your strut installation you pushed it back in. If you have no further leak, you are home free.

Here you go Larry Carlson, a whole bunch of TC parts that have already been removed from the cars. Ready to inventory and sell. Ojai is just up Hwy 33 from Ventura, CA. Probably 35 minutes away from my old shop in Saticoy.

Yes. ATF+4 is the equivalent. It should read on the container, that it meets the Chrysler requirements. Check it out.

Other manufacturers sell ATF+4 labeled just that way. This is the MOPAR 7176 trans fluid for the 604 / 41TE.

Certainly! I run Synthetic, Mobil 1, in my 280K+ TC. It burns no oil and leaks no more than with organic oil. (It doesn't leak)

If you want to struggle more, in the tight confines of the interior of the car, leave the seats in. I have done it with the seats in the car.

ABS Accumulator Replacement.pdf

Sure, I have 2 cars that have had them on. They will work just as on others. The computer looks for the EGR solenoid which is not on a TC, so you merely have to jumper the connector which is already in the TCs engine wiring harness. I used an actual solenoid without any vacuum connections. The computer just 'needs' to see something in the circuit.

A little boost on one of those 3.0L engines would help a bunch. They certainly don't have it when you need it. A 2.2L turbo does so much better in tight traffic.

Well, here is what #6 powers: Under hood lamp, power mirrors, illuminated entry, door courtesy lamps, trunk lamp, illuminated vanity mirrors, speed control and stop lamps. Happy hunting.

Just so you don't feel shunned, my 89 8v TC has been slightly modified, you can read all about it on the Allpar pages. Early on after purchasing the car in 95, I found that at freeway speeds on long upgrades, this car did not have enough power to maintain the posted speed, as soon as I had the parts accumulated, I converted it to a 5 speed manual transaxle. I also installed a SMEC from a Daytona Shelby. The other modification is not for power, but for longevity. In years to come, everyone will have to deal with the failure of the Tevis ABS brake system on these cars. I corrected that by installing a conventional vacuum booster / master cylinder system to prevent that problem from occurring. There you have it. My TC is by no means the fastest, but it suits me just fine. It as 282,676 miles on the 'clock' and runs better than new. Still the original 2.2L

That's the whole idea! That is my article and done on my 89 TC around 6 years ago. The brakes work exactly like an ordinary brake system.

OK Dude, are you looking for the Distance Sensor for the Getrag 5 speed to for the 41TE? The sc 109 is correct for the Getrag 5 speed.

The bottom one for the 16v car.

Yes, it is VERY important. These are 'stretch' bolts and can be reused, BUT it is advisable to replace them. After all, you would not wish your new head gasket to fail due to defective head bolts, would you?

Bummer, since the hinges are welded to the door. It makes a person wonder how they align the doors at the factory. I looked at my Voyager, it is the same, welded at the doors and bolted at the body.