Itsmeagain

!! FOUND PART I WAS LOOKING FOR. NO LONGER NEED. !! Looking for rear axle pinion yoke for big Buick (Electra, Invicta, LeSabre.) I'm certain 1961 and 1962 are correct - and think 1963 also is, but not sure. And if you know that other years are interchangeable to this third member, I'd be interested in that as well. This unit has 28 splines. Splines and seal-hub must be in good condition. Call (951)681-4462. (be sure to leave a message) or reply on this forum.

Doug, Sorry for such a delayed response - I am easily distracted. I am just starting on this project now. I finally have the car up on jack stands and am getting ready to start "ripping" things out. I have ordered a 4l60e from my local auto trans shop, and have procured the bell housing, flex plate and torque converter-to-crankshaft adapter bushing from Russ Martin. I have been talking with my welder/fabricator friend, and we have kinda agreed on a triangulated 4 link suspension set-up. (I don't want to go with the pickup truck trailing arms because there will be clearance issues when I let the air out of the air bags to lower the car at shows. Have you begun your project yet? Perhaps you are farther along, or even finished, and it may turn out that you know more about the conversion than I do. Thanks, Bob

Well, the last few posts have certainly made me think I have to give this more thought. A lot to think about, and my old mind moves slowly from one idea to the next. But, I can share part of what is going through it: One reason I decided on the 4L60e is because I am going to use the 401 compatible bell housing from Russ Martin, to which the 4L60e bolts right up after removing the "chevy" bell housing (the 700R4 has a one piece case/bell housing, which requires using less desirable adapter methods.) Another reason is that everything I've read about that transmission, and the fact that I have one in a 94 Chevy truck, give me confidence in its ability to handle the load. Also, I have conceded the fact that I will have to buy a stand alone electronic device to control that tranny. The engine in this car is the stock 401 ci Nailhead, with an Edlebrock(600) 4bbl and Pertronix electronic ignition, and dual exhaust. Based on the considerable torque that this engine has, I had thought that it could handle the resultant 2.26 final ratio in OD, in relatively no-load conditions at 70mph, and expecting that the tranny would upshift out of overdrive if the load is too much by virtue of a deeper throttle position. Also, I was thinking that there would be some ability to program some of the overdrive thresholds with the aftermarket computer. These are only my seat-of-the-pants suppositions, I don't have any direct experience with these technologies. I will attempt to calculate engine rpm based on my tire size, road speed and OD ratio, as per the suggestion. (I could also investigate what rear axle ratio is in my '94 Chevy truck, to make a comparison of what kind of loads its 350 engine is accommodating when it is in overdrive - or would the fact that that engine is electronically fuel injected significantly confuse the issue??) The most scary thing that I hadn't considered - but was brought up - is if the 4L60e will have tunnel clearance issues. Does anybody know the facts about this. (I'd just rather not have to do floor sheet metal modifications as well as everything else.) Interested in your comments, corrections, and warnings.

Thanks. I'm afraid you are pointing out the main problem - if the rear axle is dirty and/or rusty, and you don't know precisely where to look, you would have to do a thorough cleaning, or even blasting, in order to reveal it and with the axle still in the car in an overgrown yard, this might be too much of a pain in the you know what. So, I think I'll just have to hope he will try the "tire rotation method" to estimate the ratio. I sure appreciate you sharing this info. Thanks again, Bob Whitaker

Hi, I need to know where exactly is the Rear Axle Ratio code stamped on the rear axle housing of a 1962 Buick full-size (LeSabre, Invicta, Electra.) I have information that says it is on the bottom of the housing, but I'd like to know exactly where on the housing? Here's my story if you are interested. I own a '60 Buick Invicta 2dr hdtp, mild custom. I am on a quest to convert to open driveshaft and 4L60e overdrive transmission. I am planning to use a 61-62 rear differential that will be a direct bolt-in to my 60 axle housing. I want a diff with the 3.23:1 ratio. I've found a guy who has a 62, but he wants to be sure (and I want him to be sure) that it is a 3.23 before he goes to the trouble of pulling it. He told me he did a quick search for the stamped code, but was unsuccessful. (I sent him info on how to determine the ratio by jacking up the car and turning the rear wheel and observing the number of rotations of the drive shaft, but haven't heard anything yet, so if I could point him to the exact location of the code, it would be to my benefit.) Sure would appreciate some help on this question. If you want to see my car, just google 1960 Buick Invicta images, and mine is the two toned Island Coral with Black top, scattered about the images (or once I get it right, I hope to have a pic on my profile like some of you other pros.) Thanks, Bob Whitaker

I know it has been a year and a half since your post, but thought I would check and see if you still have a 61-62 working differential for sale?

need driver side dual exhaust manifold for 1960 Buick 401. If you have one you can contact me at 27trackt@sbcglobal.net or call (951)681-4462. Thanks, Bob

Thanks for that info Tom. That helps me know which years are interchangeable. I also don't have a need for the 5 1/2" width. I want to stay with the 6" width that is on there now. I have wide white radials and they fit the 6" rim nicely. The reason I need to know about the weld issue is because I want to reverse and chrome the rims, and it would be a whole lot easier cutting down a weld bead at the backside edge of the wheel center than it would be to have to deal with the spot welded type. Thanks again, Bob

Bob's Automobilia sells em for $22 each. I believe they are also repops.

Were all of the 15" steel wheels with 5 on 5" bolt patterns - like the ones on my '60 Invicta - spot welded together? Or did some years, say mid to late '50s, have the same wheel configuration (including the width and the "sunken" center), but they were welded with a bead along the back edge of the center rather than spot welded? If so which years? Thanks, Bob

1957 Buick Left and Right REAR Bumper Ends. One set. Beautiful. These appear to have been rechromed, but don't look as if any work was done on them. Only selling them as a pair. $950.00 for the pair, plus shipping. Located in Riverside, California. E-mail me at 27trackt@sbcglobal.net

Thanks for the tip Fireball! I'll try them tomorrow.

Looking for the preformed Lower Radiator Hose for a '60 Invicta.(2dr HDTP, no AC) Anyone out there have one for sale, or know where I could find one? Thanks for any help. Bob

Sounds like I may have the same problem on my '60. I didn't replace drums (but former owner may have) but after new radial white walls and spin balance off of the car, I get the shimmy at about the same speed. (seems like I can drive through it though, and it gets a little better at about 65 mph. Was it front or back that you replaced, and was it only one that was out of balance? Also,where did you get the static balancer and about how much? Thanks, Bob

Thanks to everyone who takes the time to respond, it is really appreciated.

Thanks again for the reply. You mentioned "what you would love to find are the actual interchangeable parts catalogue for your particular year." And you mentioned it is rare, but just so I know what to search for it, who made that cataloque, and how is it titled?

thanks for the tip, too bad you've sold the ones you had. Would you be getting more? or do you know where I should go? I saw a '40-'67 one on e-bay (actually a copy of one)but don't know if that is better or worse than the '40-'60 one you were advertising?? (or would the '60 info be exactly the same in either of them?) Thanks for any help!

I'll bet this question has been asked a million times, sorry but here it is again: How can I get info about what parts from other Buick models or years (e.g. '59s) are interchangeable with my 1960 Invicta 2 door hard top. Things like the stainless windshield molding, or tail fin stainless trim, or suspension parts, etc. Is there a printed manual or an online source? (I've looked into Hollanders before, but they are not comprehensive, they list some stuff but not eveything, and with my luck I'll spend the bucks and every time I go to use it they won't list what I am looking for.) Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob

I have three '57 Caballeros for sale. all three are project cars. You can view 40+ pictures of them at http://www.socalcarculture.com/forsale.html . I'm not selling them separately or parting out, so please don't ask. If after reading the add and viewing the photos, you just can't live without them, please contact me, because since I bought my '60 Invicta, I now can live without them. (translated: I am ready to deal.) Or if you want to talk on the phone, call me at (951)681-4462. There's a ton of potential and they need someone to bring them back to life. Thanks, Bob

Need '60 Invicta Steering Wheel. (it is the deep-vee style with two horn bars in the flat part of the two spokes) Needs to be in pretty good shape. The one I have has serious cracks. My chrome insert is OK, (has some pits), would prefer a better one, but could live with it if it were installed in a better wheel. So if you have a good wheel but with a bad chrome trim, I'm still interested. Please e-mail me at 27trackt@sbcglobal.net with picture/s and price. Thanks, Bob