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rbl2

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Everything posted by rbl2

  1. As long as the engine is apart pull #1 piston and have a good look at it. The rod bearing is not the problem. If it is it's because that bearing is no longer there. I suspect the problem is in the wrist pin area. Pulling the rod and piston is not that difficult and could answer a lot of questions. What I can't figure out is why it didn't make any noise the next morning. Good luck.
  2. If you can move one piston 1/4" and not move the others I think there's more to worry about then cam gears.
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.....Corinthian Leather and all! </div></div> And cause a shortage in women's clothing??? Wayne </div></div> Exactly. Womens clothes are not short enough.
  4. You got it. Put the oil through the holes in the top. The book says "a few drops." I squirt about 4 drops in each hole. I also take a moment to oil the water pump at this time. I'm more concerned about the front of the water pump shaft then I am the rocker arms. Since your rocker arm comes off fairly easy I would take it off and make sure the troughs under the holes are clean and clear of any grit or other obstructions that would hinder oil flow. There should also be a felt pad above the rocker arms. This pad is there to hold oil a little longer and I presume to help spread that oil else where. I've also been told it is there to help keep noise down. You're supposed to remove that pad, clean and wash it at every oil change, then coat it in oil before replacing the rocker arm cover. If, however, you're like the rest of us and change your oil every 500-1,000 miles it's probably not necessary to go to all that trouble. On the other hand, if you let the car set all winter you may consider doing that before putting it back on the road come spring time. Also, if you don't know already, there is no way for the oil on the top of the engine to run down to the bottom. Instead, it will puddle. Some will run down the side of the push rod covers and leak all over the engine. This is normal. The book advises that you remove the rocker arm cover and remove the puddles of oil at every oil change. Again, I would think this would depend on how many miles you put on your car every year. It may not be necessary to do but once a year, using the example above about the car being parked for the winter. Describing how to adjust the valves would be too difficult for me as I am typing challenged. If you need help, I could talk you through it over the phone and would gladly do so. That's a nice looking car you have there.
  5. The rockers and pads are oiled with a squirt can, probably just the way you did it, using the same weight oil that you put in the crankcase. If I remember correctly they are to be oiled every 100 miles. The Chevrolet Repair Manual has detailed instructions on adjusting the rocker arms.
  6. Not at all. I've had very good results getting parts from NAPA. Sometimes you don't even need a part number, just the part. They take a few measurements, make a few phone calls, and POOF, the part is on it's way.
  7. I used printer paper to set the gap between my ring gear and pinion gear. Works great. Or at least it has so far.
  8. I can't help you with the light assembly. Good luck with that one. Take the wheel bearings to a NAPA jobber along with your Studebaker part number and I'm willing to bet they can help you out. I took the wheel bearings to my 26 Chevy to a local NAPA jobber and they used the number off the bearings. They had to make a few phone calls but I had my bearings the next day.
  9. Interesting. Thanks for the information.
  10. Yes, there is truth to that. Wood will absorb the linseed oil. If the wood is dry it will continue to soak up the linseed oil until it is satuarated. You can take a piece of dry wood and set it in a pail of linseed oil with part of the wood sticking out and come back a few days later and see where the oil has been "wicked" up. If the wood is especially dry you may have to keep coating it with linseed oil daily for a week or so. Be sure to wipe off the excess about 10 minutes after applying it. If you rub the linseed oil correctly you'll get a beautiful sheen. Well worth the effort on certain woods. If you want to put polyureathane on the spokes after applying linseed oil be sure to allow the surface of the wood to dry thoroughly first.
  11. Chris, I came to the same conclusion as you with my car. So far I haven't had any problems. I'm told that some people, when on a long run, will turn their headlights on to keep from overcharging but I doubt that is necessary. After all, back in the day I doubt people worried about overcharging their batteries and I have not seen any mention of it in the original books.
  12. I would think regular wrapping paper would work. That or a brown paper bag. I used to use cereal boxes for gasket material and am not above using it now.
  13. Try the VCCA forum. Someone there may need it.
  14. rbl2

    1929 Sedan

    I had the ones for my 26 relined at a place that works on tractor/trailers.
  15. This thread has already been hijacked. We're no longer talking about 3rd brush generators.
  16. My lights have been resilvered also but like yours, I'm not impressed. I've thought of attaching reflectors but never thought of flashers. My car doesn't have bumpers, they were an option. I'll have to attach them to the springs I guess.
  17. Gary Wallace carries 600 w. gear oil. I needed some in a pinch once and used 3 parts STP to 1 part 30 w non detergent oil. It works just fine.
  18. Restoring the car is half the fun and most of the money. Driving it afterwards is the other half of the fun for a whole lot less money.
  19. The fastest I've ever had my 26 was 57 mph. That was in the day time and it toook a half a mile or so to get it that fast. I don't recall how much candle power the headlights have but I do know it isn't enough.
  20. I concluded after my .... actually during my first night time drive with my 26 that it would be my last night time drive. Those lights might have been bright enough in 1926 but that was a very long time ago and they just don't do the job.
  21. Huptoy is correct and there is nothing wrong with your generator. Admittedly it takes some getting used to. I've heard of people who will drive an hr or so and then turn their lights on for an hour but I've never found the need to do this. The battery will not overcharge or evaporate the water quickly. At least it hasn't in mine.
  22. While it's quite true a total and accurate restoration is very expensive and time consuming if a person is mechanically inclined and otherwise likes to work with his hands restoring a car, even to original specs, cannot always, nor should it be, measured in dollars and cents. A tremendous amount of satisfaction and pride is gained in completing such a project. I'd rather see a car like this with an amateur restoration then it being allowed to rot away to nothing.
  23. I've been known to give people rides in my 26 simply because I felt like it. I'll give some young person or a neighbor a short ride in my old car and they'll talk about it for weeks. I still remember the first time I let my son drive it. He thought I was crazy, which I am but that's another topic. He's refused to drive it since for reasons unknown to me but he still smiles when he tells someone he actually drove an 80 year old car. Not much more in life a person can ask for then to put a smile on someones face. Sometimes the best smiles are those that don't cost a cent.
  24. O also remember this man telling me he "knew" what all his cars were worth and no one was going to get one cheap. Ok, fella. I get the point. This man is probably about 60+ years old. I figure he'll die or retire and his kids will scrap everything out.
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