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Everything posted by rbl2

  1. Someone either start another thread with the pics or send me smaller ones. before the small ones will show up in this thread the larger ones have to download. I'm not that young anymore. Thanks.
  2. I'm on dial up and can't download the pictures. I've tried. It would take me all night, if then, to be able to see them.
  3. Looks like odds are good to excellent that the cables were switched. It would have had the same results as taking a single cable or large screw driver and shorting out the battery.
  4. We need the diagram for a 21 Chevy. I have everything I need for my 26.
  5. Looking at the picture it is quite obvious your starter is different then mine. Mine only has one cable goig to it. I'd need a wiring diagram to know why yours has two. I may have one for your year but I'll have to look. I don't think I do though. At this point I would recommend that you go to the VCCA forums and check with their experts except that their forum is down. Do you have a wiring diagram? If so, use it to make sure your wiring is done correctly. Later today I'll see if I can find one on line. Hang in there. We'll work this out eventually. Apparently the gremlins that have been plaguing me for so long have moved on to your car. They're mean lil suckers too.
  6. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1948Lincoln</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"and why did yours go bad quickly? It didn't. Where my starter bolted to the bell housing was not as clean as it should have been, thus preventing a good ground connection." Oh, I thought you were talking about the starter pedal, that you had ordered and I thought it had gone bad? </div></div> <span style="color: #3366FF">I was talking about the starter pedal. That's what I call the foot starter. It wasn't working apparentrly because the ground connection was not good where the starter mated to the bell housing. </span>
  7. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JFranklin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't know your car but I would hook the + side of battery to the switch and a cable from switch to the starter. then a cable from the - battery side to a frame or engine ground. Your setup sounds wrong to me. I think you just made a loop back to the battery. with sparks when you completed the circuit by pressing the starter switch! </div></div> <span style="color: #3366FF"> I agree 100% </span>
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1948Lincoln</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, the negative cable always went to the other side of the starter, I just plugged it in the way it had been, is this not the way it is supposed to be? <span style="color: #3366FF">No. It's supposed to be as I described </span> Because my grandpa did a lot of funny stuff to the car, when he got older and couldnt see. <span style="color: #3366FF">It happens to all of us eventually. </span> Also, there is no ground wire on the car, and there never has been, however I do have one that I found, from where to where do I plug it in? <span style="color: #3366FF">The ground cable or - side of the battery originally bolted to the frame right by the battery. Experince has shown it is better to bolt it to the transmission. </span> Now,about the footpedal, how do you know if it is bad? <span style="color: #3366FF"> Process of elimination. If everything else is good and the starter works when you bypass the foot starter then it has to be the foot starter.</span> and why did yours go bad quickly? <span style="color: #3366FF"> It didn't. Where my starter bolted to the bell housing was not as clean as it should have been, thus preventiung a good ground connection.</span> Now, this cardboard in between the positive cables, mine did not have that, maybe they finally wore away? so, do I just get some thin cardboard and cut it down and put it between the cable connections on the starter pedal? <span style="color: #3366FF">No. It's not really needed. It just prevents a short out if a heavy piece of metal falls back there or you attempt to remove or tighten one of the cables w/o disconnecting the battery first. </span> I did notice a bare spot on the battery cable going from the starter to the starter pedal, I will tape that up, but it had been there for as long as I can remember and I put tape on there, but, maybe it was jostled just enough, they are all the original battery cables, very heavy. I still dont get how copper could catch on fire? And the starter pedal innerds look undamaged, they just smell like smoke. <span style="color: #3366FF">Taping it is a temporary solution. Replace the cable as soon as possible. Now if you can. </span> </div></div>
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The negative into the left side of the starter. and the positive to the starter button and then the starter button to the battery</div></div> You lost me when you said you put the negative on the starter. Yours may be different than my 26 but it ought to be very close to the same. I just went through a similiar problem and the cure really caught me off guard. The ground cable originally bolted to the frame but you get better results if you bolt it to the transmission. I did consider getting a longer ground cable and bolting it to one of the starter bolts that holds it to the frame. The positive cable runs to the foot starter. On the same connection is the wire that comes from the amps guage. From the other side of the foot starter the positive cable runs to the post on the side of the starter. A couple of months ago my starter wouldn't work one day. I hooked a jumper directly to the starter, using the frame as a ground. It started right up. This was an intermitent problem. If I hooked a jumper to the battery I got no results but if I hooked it directly to the starter it would fire right up. I concluded the foot starter was bad and replaced it with a new one. I also cleaned all the connections. I had my starter checked out and it was fine. It started a few times as it should and quit. Another man who is familiar with these cars and also owns a 28 Chevy suggested that the new replacement foot starter was bad. There's not much there. The problem has to be between the battery and starter. After recleaning all the connections and assuring myself they were tight I was at a loss. On a whim I removed the starter again and cleaned it where it mates to the bell housing. I also scraped clean that area on the bell housing where the starter mates to it. I replaced the starter. It fired up like it had a 12v battery in it and has continued to do so since. Point being, all connections must be clean and tight. ALL of them. On the foot starter where those positive cables bolt, they are seperated by a small piece of cardboard. This helps prevent and shorting out. My thought is that something shorted it out. I don't see how anything inside that foot starter could have shorted out. Had it done so the starter would have engaged. They are a simple mechanism on the inside and can be fixed if you want to go through the trouble of taking one apart. I can't but help think something on the outside shorted it out. On mine there's not much room between that foot starter and the engine block. The heat tube on mine is also within a very short distance from where those cables bolt to it. Perhaps one of the cables or the wire to the amp guage had a bare spot on it or somehow touched the frame. Get a new starter button (Gary Wallace has them) and while you're waiting on that check the cables and amp guage wire for bare spots or breaks in the insulation. Also make sure you have the right sise cable for 6v. It''s heavier than that req'd for 12v. Let me know how it goes. We'll work thios out eventually.
  10. I'm told not to worry about adding lead to the fuel for my 26 Chevy as they supposedly didn't have it back then. I've put several thousand miles on it and haven't had a problem yet.
  11. I also have fond memories of those days. You're right too when you say if you never had it you won't miss it. Problem being, I have now experienced indoor plumbing, hot showers, etc. I want to hang on to them. Wasn't 1955 the year Ike started sending "advisors" to VietNam?
  12. I did not click on your link. I sometimes think I'd like to be able to travel back through time to see some of the many changes that have occured. I also tell myself that I would like to go in the future, say in 50 year intervals, just to be the proverbial fly on the wall and see what changes have occured both nationally and world wide. Something tells me I may not like those changes though. Cars, as we know them, will stick around awhile, unless they are outlawed and banned almost overnight. It would take a decade or two or three for everyone to be able to purchase whatever replaces them. Not everyone can afford, or wants, a new vehicle every few years. As far as the media goes, I've been in two wars and participated in one murder trial. No, I didn't kill anyone, a close friend did. But I have been tempted a few times...... Anyhow, due to my experiences I have concluded the media does not report the news. They make it up. Sometimes they add just enough truth to make it believable. I haven't watched the news since Dec., '04. I'm not interested in being misinformed any more. Beyond a doubt we have more liesure time than anytime in history. With all the modern convienences how else could we not? With all the modern inventions and what not we also accomplish a lot more, although not always in a good way. One example would be pollution. While we sometimes wissh we could return to the "good old days" I think we don't stop and think of the convienences we have today. Personally, I am partial to electricity, indoor plumbing, hot running water, showers, central heat and air, AC in my vehicle, etc. Doomsday sayers abound. Are any right? Damifiknow and damificare. Nothing lasts forever, not even the stars in the sky. Certainly not oil. Rest assured, there will be something to take its place though. My biggest wishes would be that our children and their childrens' children, etc., are happy, healthy, well adjusted, and never know war. I never said I was realistic. I also feel fine. Well, accept for tha aches and pains associated with aging. 'Nuff said.
  13. I'm thinking about leaving a note for my kids to read after I die. It'll say something about me having buried tens of thousands of dollars in several large pickle jars on my property but neglect to say where. That ought to keep them busy for awhile and assure that they don't sell the home place.
  14. Without looking I have no idea. Go out and pull up on it from the front and the back and see what happens.
  15. My son told me to spend my money freely and to enjoy my life. He said I had earned it. His suggestion made me wonder what he was up to. Is this some form of a guilt trip? Is he being nice to me in an attempt to stay on my good side? I don't have the answers to those questions so while I'm thinking about it I believe I'll go spend my money on myself.
  16. Most likley the seat is bolted to the floor. The bolts should be easily accessible from the doors.
  17. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1DandyDaves</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">told the cashier at the local grocery store I was 21 but she didn't believe me. </div></div> You must have been buying beer...or cigarretts...Did you share any with your buddies??? The law says that everyone needs to be I.D. Even old farts. Dandy Dave! </div></div> I asked if she'd go for a short ride with me and she called me a dirty old man. So I bet er $20 that she'd not only go for a ride with me she'd smilke all the way. Then I told her to look outside to see what she'd be riding in. <----- She told me she got off work at 6 PM but that she couldn't afford $20 for a short ride. I told her we could make it a long ride. Then she called me a dirty old man again.
  18. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mika Jaakkola</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm still 29 !! </div></div> I told the cashier at the local grocery store I was 21 but she didn't believe me.
  19. I don't know about the foot switch. I wouldn't think it would need 3 wires to work though. It's been too many years since I played with these old radios. At that, most were Chevys, Plymouths, and a few F***s. I worked on them because I was too poor to get them fixed, much less buy a newer car. I'm not about to pretend I'm very knowledgeable in this area. I don't doubt if the radio were in front of me I could help you though. Do you see a speaker inside it? I doubt you do. Most speakers were seperate and some came in another case and sometimes there were tubes in that case. There should be a schematic inside the radio case and it would tell you what the wires were for.
  20. There should be a fuse in the line to the radio. I believe it was 20 amp but don't quote me on that. The three prong plug would most likely be for the speaker. The antenna was most likely a single prong plug that would plug into the radio.
  21. rbl2


    1" of free play is all you need. Try that before investing money or a lot of time. It might also be that you simply need to drive the car for awhile. Kinda break the clutch in. Over the years I have concluded that cars have individual personalities and characters, much like people. Two cars, same make and model coming off the same assemble line, one right behind the other, can behave differently. Just my .02
  22. Here's what I've done so far. I checked all the electrical connections and cleaned them. That didn't help. I removed the bowl from the carb and found very small amounts of a very fine dirt that appeared to be metal as it was shiney. I removed the carb and sparyed everything down with B12. I then disconnected the fuel line from the modern filter by the gas tank. I allowed the fuel to flow through the filter. It flowed quite freely. I then disconnected the fuel line from the vacuum tank on the gas tank side. I wrapped a clean, white, cotton rag around the other end of the fuel line and using a compressor blew it out. I did not find any dirt on the rag. I then moved the rag to the other end and blew the line out again. Still, I did not fing any dirt on the rag. Then I removed the inner tank from the vacuum tank to look for rust or dirt. I saw none but did take note that there was very little fuel in the lower chamber and none in the upper chamber. This is the 4 screw vac tank. The shut off valve on the bottom of the inner tank looks to be no more than a fiber board. It moved freely but only a little. I have no idea how much it is supposed to move. I went to clean it out, using B12, and noticed that the B12 would flow very slowly out and sometimes not at all. I tried to clean it and free it up some but could not. Fortunately, I had another. The second one allowed fuel to flow freely passed the fiber board valve. I sprayed liberal amounts of B12 on the mechanisms that attach to the float in the vacuum tank and gently wiggled them hoping to remove any dirt that may be there. I then reassembled it and reattached the fuel lines to it. The gasket appeared to be very old and thin so I made a new one from paper gasket material about 3/32" thick. Then I removed the lines from the vac tank to the carb amd also blew them out. Meanwhile, an older mechanic suggested the coil was overheating, even though it is a new one. The coil sits on top of the oil filter. He told me that the next time it quit to put hands on and see how hot it was. The car started and ran fine, until I took it down the road. Again it sputtered out. The coil was very hot to the touch. Hotter than the oil filter. So I raised it about 1/4-3/8". This would allow air to flow between the coil and filter. Then I removed the bowl from the carb and found more, but not as much, of the same shiney "dirt" I had found there before. I cleaned it out, replaced the bowl, and drove away. No problems this time. After 30 miles I removed the bowl from the carb again and again found more, but even less of the dirt. I drove about 40 miles with no problems and again removed the bowl from the carb. This time I found only a very tiny am't of the dirt in the bowl. I have now put 90 miles on it without it sputtering out. What was the problem? I'm not sure. It may have been a combination of things. Where did the dirt in the carb come from? Damifiknow. I have trouble imaging it getting past a brand new modern filter as well as the sediment bowl, which shows no dirt at all. Could it have been the gasket in the vac tank? Maybe. It was rather thin and old. Have I fixed it? Let me drive it another hundred miles or so before passing final judgement. Meanwhile, it seems to be doing just fine. Having said that, I'll wake up tomorrow only to find all the fenders have fallen off, the tires will be flat, the seat fallen through the floor, the steearing wheel in pieces, and gremlin poo all over everything.
  23. When I first got my 26 Chevy I couldn't get the brake drums off. A VCCA tech told me to loosen the nut a couple of turns, replace the cotter key, and drive around the block a few times. Problem solved. Before I re-installed the brake drums I made sure all rust was removed from the inside where the shaft goes and I put a little bit of oil on the axle shaft. I haven't had any problems removing the brake drums since.
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